So I test rode a B4 tonight! :-D

[stormi]

Yeah...I dont even wanna know about Canadian prices...*shudder*

That seafoam stuff looks pretty cool. It says you can put some in your gas tank...but also in your engine oil? And it says to pour it directly into the carbs...is that right?  

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

If you pour it right into the gas,.. it will get into the carbs,.. promise. ;)  No disassembly required that way.  If you're reluctant to take the carbs off,.. the airbox isn't much more fun... doable,.. but not really at the top of my list of things to do with spare time...  

[Bartjan]

I guess when I get the bike, I'll check the entire cable...probably replace it anyway...as it is cheap/easy to replace.

The seller also mentioned theres a small oil leak, I believe where the clutch cover is. He showed me a small stain where the bikes been sitting the past 6 months, so it seems to be like a slow leak...like a drop here and there. Are gaskets readily available for the Bandit? That seems easy to fix...just take the clutch cover off and replace the gasket....right?

it's not easy to replace   , it's really an frustrating job to attach the cable to the carbs. but if you anticipate taking 30 minutes instead of 1 minute for just attaching the cable to the carbs then at least you are prepared  

if the price for the gasket is high or unavailable, you could always use silicon gasket. which is much cheaper anyways...

[Vidrazor]

Check the tank and see how much rust it has. Get a pro opinion on this if you're not sure (it's not always easy to tell HOW much). If the tank is pretty rusted, either elect to get the inside coated with KREEM or similar, or replace the tank if you can find a good one somewhere. If you need/want to replace it but can't find one soon enough, get it Kreemed.

Get the carbs completely cleaned at a shop (if you don't know how to do it yourself). This is especially so if the tank is hosed, but I would do it regardless. Get an inline fuel filter installed.

Assuming nothing major is wrong with the bike, these two areas can be potentially problematic is not addressed. Fuel delivery is probably the B4's most common problem.

[GooseMan]

Cool..thanks for all the tips guys!

Yeah...I keep forgetting to check the inside of the tank    I looked in it breifly once, but forgot to really check...I'll e-mail the guy.

[tomacGTi]

Whatever you do, do not coat your tank with Kreem. Some people have great success but I can attest to the latter.

The Kreem in my tank is failing as we speak and it was done by a shop, not by one of the previous owners. Pretty much, it looks like someone skimped or otherwise on the prep as it's coming off in sheets, revealing rusted metal underneath. After going into the tank via the gascap with some long tongs, I was able to pull out most of the bits and have started using a fuel filter as the rust forms a very fine sediment inside the tank. This will form into a light red sludge in the bottom of your float bowls and just make a mess of your carbs (did the clean-up last fall)

I haven't gone forward and redone it yet because it is even worse to re-do than to do right the first time. It's a messy, messy job to re-do hence me balking. When I get off my lazy ass though, I'll be going directly for the POR-15 kit.

-Randy

[BrianM]

Whatever you do, do not coat your tank with Kreem. Some people have great success but I can attest to the latter.

... I'll be going directly for the POR-15 kit.

-Randy

I've heard that exact same thing about 8 times before now.  I've NEVER heard a complaint from someone who's used POR-15 (though, there are fewer of those people out there too...  and they tend to be a bit smarter, as it's not a readily available/highly advertised kit and they had to put forth the effort to find it or learn about it).

Good luck with the recoat.  If you don't mind repainting the tank and have a radiator shop with a dip tank (getting rare these days), that's a QUICK and easy way to remove Everything from the metal.

[gsxr400 racer]

I'm a firm believer of Kreem have had mine in my race bike for 4-5 years now and i run oxygenated VP race fuel and have some time not drained my fuel out with out it turning my Kreem to a gooey mess.

[interfuse]

I also had good luck with Kreem. It's lasted at least 4 years. I'm starting to think about getting the tank re-lined. If I was doing it again though I'd use por-15. I've used thier preventive rust paint and the stuff was amazing. I'd image the tank liner would be great as well.

[GooseMan]

Hmmm....good info guys. I'll check into both.

Also...about the sticky throttle...what makes the throttle (grip) snap back into position? Is there a spring in the grip itself...or a spring on the carbs? (did I ask this already?)

[r_outsider]

It's on the carbs. The spring itself being the problem would be very rare. The most likely culprit is either an old unlubricated cable or the routing of the cable itself. B4's seem to be very picky about that, at least in my experience.

[PitterB4]

As someone else said, I'll bet on the stickyness being in the throttle tube.  Two things can happen.  First, gunk can build up under the tube making it stick to the bars.  Easily fixed by removing the throttle and cleaning everything well.  Or, if the locator pin in the throttle housing has been removed, the throttle can move inward a little and the grip can slip off the end of the tube and bind up on the bar. Also easily fixed.  A sticky cable is a close second likely cause.

[GooseMan]

Another quick question...

This bike has fairly high mileage (56,000 km or roughly 30,000 miles).I dont think the sprockets and/or chain have ever been replaced. I have quickly checked them before, but if its something relatively inexpensive, I think it would be a good idea to change them.

Should I just ask my local shop for these? And reccomendations? I'd like to stick to stock sizes...dont need anything fancy. I found "SprocketSpecialists" by doing a search here..are they any good? Are sprockets pretty standard stuff...or will they be hard to find, like most other B4 parts?

[stormi]

Are sprockets pretty standard stuff...or will they be hard to find, like most other B4 parts?

The front sprocket, from the factory, has a rubber bushing on it,... it keeps things a little quieter.  If you're not too concerned about that,.. a stock replacement sprocket can be ordered from nearly any aftermarket company that makes sprockets.  

The rear sprocket is available aftermarket as well, and the chain is -definately- available aftermarket, just make sure you get the right size.  

If the street bikes are anything like the dirtbikes, you usually buy the bike, and take the chain off, and replace it with aftermarket right away.  So,.. don't worry about aftermarket at all.  

The only reason I'm not sure about the quality of the chains on streetbikes, is that my 919 came with an aftermarket already on it, and Dita required a chain change, and one became available at exactly the right time.  Thanks Pitter.

Perhaps if r_outsider comes back, he'll tell you more about my chains.  

[gsxr400 racer]

30,000 miles  

[pmackie]

Chain and Sprockets are "relatively" inexpensive. Likely in the $250 CAN range, but if their not yet worn out, it is not necessary to repace them.

The easiest way to check the chain is to take all the slack out of the chain by holding it up with your left foot while pulling the chain straight off the back if the rear sprocket with your right hand. If the chain can be pulled 1/2 a tooth or more, it is finished and should be replaced. 1/3 tooth is worn, but useable, 1/4 tooth or less, keep using it, it still has some life left.

Also check the rear sprocket. If the teeth are looking pointed, and/or there is a different shape on the leading edge of the tooth vs the trailing edge, the sprockets are worn out.

Either way, change both the sprockets and the chain at the same time.