Author Topic: Still havin problems (Read 3206 times)

onenicebandit · « **on:** May 29, 2006, 11:34:45 PM »

Well, I got the bike to fire up and upon first firing it up it idled nicely at 1400, then...it all went crappy. Apparently the little rubber booties that join the carbuerators together decided they didn't want to do a good job anymore, so they dryrotted and started leaking badly, no problem...I had extras of those. Put the carbs back on fired it up again, would not idle at all, took it out on the road to try and clean the system out, made it about 2 miles and went to turn around and it shut off. Tried starting it back up but to no avail, at least I was on a hill, so I coasted it and pop started it. Finally made it back to my house, and soon as it came down off of the higher RPM's, it just shut off. I took it back apart all the way down to the valves and cams, I noticed the two cam sprockets' dash marks are not lined up with each other, they are supposed to be directly across from each other correct, these line up more like 4 o'clock and 10 o'clock, not 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I'm just trying to figure out stuff in my mind...Aren't the igniter boxes notorious for going out on these things? Maybe the guy before me had the ignitor box go out on him, but the shop, reluctant to put a new box on the bike, did motor work instead (I know they did) like valve jobs and timing adjustments. When it was time for it to go back together they didn't get it together correctly, they put the cams in misaligned so now there is two problems. Going to line them up correctly tomorrow.

Can anyone tell me a good place to order a new Ignitor Box, I see them sometimes on ebay, are they refurbs or aftermarket or what? Anyone have any experience with them? AM I EVEN ON THE RIGHT TRACK!!! I feel I am so close.

Farre · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:23:55 PM »

if you could drive the bike, then the igniter box is still working. be careful though, the igniter box is very sensitive to "pop starting", you could destroy it like that.. I believe this has happened in my case.
My method to check the igniter box:
pull one plug, put a screwdriver in, touch the screwdriver with your finger and then press the starter till you feel a shock. If you don't feel it, then it's toast.
For getting a new igniter box, check the US-ebay, there's a guy making these, veeery affordable and it works flawlessly.

interfuse · « **Reply #2 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:39:11 PM »

With the black box, either it works or it doesn't. If your bike was running then your black box is fine. Personally I'd check the battery and charging system.

Someone will correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe it's possible for the timing chain to jump a tooth if the tensioner isn't working properly. I'd also look into that while you have the valve cover off.

Chris H · « **Reply #3 on:** May 30, 2006, 05:17:09 PM »

niceone,
Are you sure your not missing the problem?you say it ran before you took the carbs off , did you rebuild it right ? Regarding your cams the notches should only line up some of the time. To check you should take off the left side generator cover and line up the 'T' marks then check the cams (obviously EX for exhasust IN for inlet and the notches are at the right end ). The exhaust sprocket has an arrow marked '1' this should be horizontal and pointing at the top of the engine casing gasket surface , the '2' arrow will point straight up . A cam chain pin should be directly above this and then there should be 20 pins across to the '3' marked arrow of the inlet sprocket ( I say should because on some models like my variable valve model there ars 24 pins). Then you check the cam clearences with the cam end notches both facing horizontaly outwards for EX cylinder no.1 and no.2 and IN no.1 and no.3 , and then horizontaly inwards for EX no.3 andno.4 and IN no.2 and no.4 , make sure you turn the engine the correct way. Any way I hope this helps.

Chris H

onenicebandit · « **Reply #4 on:** May 30, 2006, 09:37:33 PM »

So you're saying that it's highly unlikely that the Ignitor box is bad, if it's running, then probably good. It wasn't rebuilt per-say, but the motors internals were gone over. The bike only has 2500 miles on it, and the original owner had the same problems as I'm having now, but he gave up on it and put it in the dead zone at teh shop. It seems as if gas is just straight up dumping into the carbs and fouling my plugs, the #4 cylinder is pretty bad, 2 is also bad. 1 and 3 are ok. High RPM's it seems ok, but bring it under 3k and it's a struggle to keep running, except when I first put the bike back together with fresh plugs, fresh battery and freshly cleaned carbs. Any ideas?

interfuse · « **Reply #5 on:** May 30, 2006, 11:34:50 PM »

Yes, if your bike was running at any rpm it means you're getting spark and your black box is working.

If two cylinders are flooding with fuel it means you need to replace your o-rings (quite common after 15 years see Jay's description in link...) and check the float needle valves for debris. You also need to check your petcock to make sure it doesn't leak gas. If its on the "on" position NO gas should leak out after you initially disconnect the line with no vacuum. If it leaks gas either you need to replace the petcock or install an inline fuel shut off... and do an oil change.

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #6 on:** May 31, 2006, 12:26:32 AM »

sounds like orings to me or the not so uncomman unseated float assembly! LOL just pulling your chain bro (inside joke) but yes they may not be seated correctly!

onenicebandit · « **Reply #7 on:** May 31, 2006, 04:32:06 PM »

Well, I've got teh carbs off of it again, going to attempt to take them apart again and check them all out. When I first took all of the float bowls off and pulled the floats out of them, the o-rings were not seated on the actual floats, they were on the carbeurator. All of them were like that, and, although it appeared that the floats were seated, I pushed them down hard, and it seemed like both ends pushed into place, maybe this is not how it should be. Anyways, I've got some Viton O-rings laying around.

I also wanted to say, I have the valve cover off and it appears as if the main intake cam rod is not in time. They have the chain and the cogs on correctly and tight, but it seems as if the intake cam valance is a little off. Could this be a problem? I'm sure it's not THE problem, but i'm also sure it doesn't help. It's a little off, and maybe I'm picking the bike apart too much, but they surely aren't lined up.

onenicebandit · « **Reply #8 on:** June 01, 2006, 11:09:45 AM »

WEll, I'm almost pretty sure it's not the carbs. I once again took them off and took them apart, nothing, not a speck of dirt, not a bit of wear on the needle jet. The only thing I could find O-ring wise was #1 carb was missing the little guy on top of the cap. That's all.

Are you guys sure that it wouldn't be the ignitor box. The manual says it may be the problem, but...who knows. I need one to test out if it doesn't work. Does anyone know how to test it correctly.

Chad

Farre · « **Reply #9 on:** June 01, 2006, 12:00:24 PM »

ahh, i've reread your first post.. maybe one of the coils is bad? When i was riding in rain, one coil always became grounded directly, so one coil "wasn't working" and the symptoms might match it too [only drive-able in high rpm's], if for example your absolute topspeed is 120km/h and takes a while to get there, then it must be that, if you're power is significantly higher thne it's something else..

I'm saying 'maybe'