Author Topic: RF900 can & carb mods  (Read 14155 times)

Offline Red01

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RF900 can & carb mods
« on: March 11, 2005, 11:59:36 PM »
RF900 can & carb mods
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Tidnab79
(5/17/02 8:33 pm)
RF 900 Can on 1200

I have seen 3 or 4 comments about using an rf900 can on the Bandit 1200 ... so when I saw one on Ebay, I bought it!

My Bike is a 97 1200S .. stock. Without spending ANY money, can I do anything with this can to improve the bike's performance?

So far, I put it on and pulled out the snorkel. These are the only mods to the bike. It has been on for a week - ridden maybe 200 fast accelerating town miles.

I don't have a dyno, so objective evidence is non-existent. The "changes" I notice (maybe ???):
The sound is a little deeper, throatier.
Hesitation/missing which was already present at 1000 to 3000 rpm range seems more pronounced.
Bike developed an oil leak (coincidentally, I'm sure) around the starter cover.
The bike does not seem to be any faster/stronger.

What should I be doing to get anything out of this? Shims? Turn the throttle screws out?

Am I hurting the bike (ie too lean) with this pipe and the current carburetion?

I don't have the coin for a jet kit right now. I am thinking I should just put the stocker back on unless someone can tell me how to "use" the Rf900 can to its best advantage.

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Red01SuziB12S
(5/17/02 9:46 pm)
Re: RF 900 Can on 1200

 When your bike was totally stock it was already lean. With the RF900 can and snorkelectomy you have made it worse, which you have verified with the SOTP dyno. The good news is you should be able to correct this with a minimal expenditure of coinage. Drill out the EPA plugs covering the pilot screws. Check to see that all are the same (pretty common for them to be found NOT the same), then follow the Tuning Tips on Fast Larry's site for adjusting them - and shimming the needles.

Paul W

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Tidnab79
(5/17/02 11:54 pm)
RF 900 can carb mods

Thanks Paul for the info. I have just a few hundred questions left if you or others feel like sharing ...

1. Any advice re: Clymer's or Haynes? Suzuki dealer carries one (not in stock). Dale sells the other .. gotta get one or the other real quick. I will probably be diving in "blind" in the next few days anyway.

2. Got a gasket, will I have any trouble with the case cover (left side - starter?). I suspect I just pop the Allens off and carefully remove .. nothing to lose in there, is there?

3. (from wrenching for idiots) I think I can pull the tank and the carbs with what I've found on-line WITHOUT a manual. Got lots of written instructions for drilling the plugs and the shimming. I understand they come from Radio Shack? I got a part number for a bag-o-washers at the wrenching for idiots page. Am I to understand that there will already be one shim (washer) on the needle and that I ADD ONE MORE?

4. With the shim, the RF900 can, snorkelectomy, where should I turn the adjusting screws 2.5 ? 3?

5. Will I be able to tell if they need to be turned in more or out more from the performance / spark plugs? Are the screws THE only adjustments I need to do?

6. If I return to the stock can, all this is still good to have done, correct?

7. In general, are these mods improving the reliability/longevity (cuz it's richer and more efficient) or hastening the wear and tear on the engine? How about heat?

Thanks any and all for your comments.

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Red01SuziB12S
(5/18/02 2:02 am)
Re: RF 900 can carb mods
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 1. I don't know, I have the Suzuki one. But I hear more folks talk about the Haynes - if they aren't talking about the Suzi one.

2. I don't remember any surprises when I pulled mine off. A little care on re-instl IRT starter pinion.

3. My '01 had a washer on top of the E-clip and a spacer below, any shims would go either between the clip and spacer, or below both... but the '01-up have different carbs so yours may be different.

4. I'd start with 3 and go from there.

5. If you can read plugs, yes. Short of playing with the jetting, the pilot screws & shims are all you need to do.

6. Absolutely!  

7. In general, these mods will make your bike run better AND last longer... you won't be as "green". Oh! Lean engines run hotter than rich ones, so performance tuning will run cooler than emissions tuning.

Paul W

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Tidnab79
(5/18/02 10:28 am)
Re: RF 900 can carb mods

Wow, thanks so much for the info. I really appreciate it. I am sure other "lurkers" will pick up useful info from this thread as well.

Thanks again..

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Tidnab79
(5/20/02 3:10 am)
Re: RF 900 can carb mods

I posted this in another section but thought it might be useful here as well:

Thanks to your advice and other posts, here is what I DID do:

Installed an rf900 can.
Removed Snorkel.
Installed 1 extra shim.
Drilled ONE float bowl drain screw partially out...THEN...
Drilled 4 Fuel mixture plugs out
Set Fuel Mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns out

I read "WRENCHING FOR IDIOTS" but should have read the "WRENCHING FOR IDIOTS FOR DUMMIES" version. There are lots of posts regarding the drilling of the plugs, but based on the descriptions, I mistakenly tried to drill out the ?? drain hole??. OTHERS TAKE NOTE: Don't drill the round section of casting with a little hole in it! This is not the starter hole referred to in the instructions. The REAL plugs (also round) are "lower" down below the floatbowls and actually look like PLUGS. I did not find them immediately because that area of the carb kinda looks like the mounting "bracket" rather than the carb itself.

Have only ridden about 10 miles since doing the carbs, but it seems "good". It seems to not stumble as much at 1500 to 2500 rpm. It might have a little more punch, but not really very noticeable.

Reading the plugs prior to the carb work showed normal to lean operation, pretty good plug condition. Next I will be synching the carbs.

Any other advice? Stop me if I'm doing something I shouldn't!

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Tidnab79
(5/20/02 3:19 am)
Re: RF 900 can carb mods

Had no trouble replacing the gasket on the starter cover. Pretty straightforward stuff, no springs, gears or o-rings jumping out. I di not mess with anything inside. I loosened the cover with a whack or 2 from a rubber mallet. Just 1 alignment pin on the lower front section. Pull the cover straight off.

This, for now, seems to have eliminated my oil leak.
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Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)