1200 Clutch slipping. Can't figure out the problem!

[StangMATA]

2k miles ago I threw a new Barnett clutch and spring in the bike.

Last week I went for a spin and noticed at about 90mph when I goosed the throttle, the R's climbed but no speed increase. After playing with it for a while I found that in lower gears she grabbed just fine. At higher speeds in higher gears is when she would spin.

I took the clutch cover off last night and took a peak inside. there is no clutch material in the case. The clutch plates seperate and come back together properly when the lever is pulled and released.

Today I plan to take the clutch pack completely apart, but I just don't know what could be causing the issue. There's no way that I smoked those frictions already.

Ideas?

[reaper]

were your steel plates clean ? did you soak your new fiber plates in fresh oil for 24 hours before fitting them ? also its better to use two springs when you put it all back together.and another useful trick is to add an extra thick steel plate instead of a thin one..i hope this helps

[StangMATA]

The steel plates were clean and brand new.

The fibers were soake for 2 hours. Barnett only claims that only an hour is needed.

I can't remember if Barnett claims one spring or two. The suk fische shows two springs from the factory. I put in whatever Barnett gave me.

I would be a bit more understanding if the clutch started slipping after only 50 miles or something, but I went 2k miles w/o a hitch.

[ZenMan]

What type of oil are you using? Did you switch to a different type, or use any additives?

[pmackie]

I think I would start looking at the slave cylinder/push rod end, especially as things initially seemed OK.

I'm not completely familiar with the 1200 set up, as my 600 has a cable, but make sure that there is no damage to the push rod, that the slave cylinder is releasing completely. You need to ensure that there is slack in the whole system once the clutch is fully released.

The only other suggestion is that you have insufficient clutch spring tension. Make sure you have the correct springs. If all else fails, you may be able to "preload" the existing springs with a washer to increase the pressure slightly.

Let us know what you find.

[CWO4GUNNER]

I would also look at the oil your using with the new clutch and would stick with basic mineral oil for at least 500 miles before using synthetic or any type of additive.

[StangMATA]

What type of oil are you using? Did you switch to a different type, or use any additives?

Honda HP4 10w-40 semi-synth. Changed it when I did the clutch.

I think I would start looking at the slave cylinder/push rod end, especially as things initially seemed OK.

The only issue I see is that if something were to happen with the hydrolic system (minus the slave piston sticking), the clutch would be stuck engaged and I would have trouble dissengaging it. Hence my confusion.

[reaper]

i would not use Barnett plates the best plates are the original ones thats what all the drag bikes run thats the first thing the second is have you made sure that you have assembled everything correctly and in the right order it might sound stupid but i have overlooked simple things in the past that have had me stumped for a while until i have gone over what i have done and found that i had made a mistake even pro's can make mistakes

[Ranger]

[StangMATA]

I refuse to run Mobile 1. Peronal preference.

I finally got a chance over the weekend to tear it down. Looks like I way overtightened the center nut. I'm not sure how I managed that.

The washer behind the nut actually wore into the phillips head screws that hold the spring retainer on. I managed to work those screws out and once I got to the friction plates, I found that they were smoothed over.

So I'll be getting new clutch plates, new spring retainer, new retainer screws, and we'll see what happens this time.