Bandit Alley

MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: slo coach on April 15, 2005, 02:00:39 AM

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: slo coach on April 15, 2005, 02:00:39 AM

can somebody clarify this for me.the sales brochures on the 1200 describe the h.p as either 97 or 99 h.p.do we know if this is at the crank for sure.THE H.P charts at ivans for example describe the h.p as SAE h.p.Does that sae mean its at the crank or wheel.


     cheers                            SLO COACH

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Red01 on April 15, 2005, 02:24:26 AM

Ivan (and other tuners) use a rear wheel dyno. The 97-99 figure sounds like what most stock B12's put out on a rear wheel dyno.

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Runerx on April 19, 2005, 11:54:17 PM

Anyone know what a stock B6 puts to the wheel?
DJ :banana:

Title: b6 hp
Post by: flip on April 20, 2005, 12:37:00 AM

1996 B6   73.6 H.P. -  AUGUST 1995 MOTORCYCLIST
1996 B6   73.0 H.P. -  AUGUST 1996 MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS
1996 B6   71.6 H.P. -  JULY 1995 CYCLE WORLD
1998 B6   71 H.P.    - JUNE 1998 RIDER
2000 B6   68.6 H.P. - MARCH 2000 MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS
2000 B6   70.4 H.P. - APRIL 2000 CYCLE WORLD
2000 B6   72.9 H.P. - MAY 2000 MOTORCYCLIST

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: yogi on April 24, 2005, 06:24:34 PM

I've just run my bone stock B12 K5 on my firms dyno. Best pull was 105.6 bhp (DIN). The dyno is a Dynojet 250i and has an on board weather station to take into account altitude, temperature and barometric pressure etc. Different dynos read differently though, so you shouldn't get too hung up on what figure your bike produces, but the differences you see as you mod the bike and re run it. Irrespective of if the dyno reads high or low the gains or losses will always be the actual amount.

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: B12Teuton on April 25, 2005, 12:19:12 PM

That's a good number yogi.

How many miles are on it?
Did you break it in?  If so, how?

I am a firm beliver that break in can make at least a 5hp difference and explains the gap you often see between identical bikes.

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: yogi on May 12, 2005, 05:38:51 PM

Broken in hard. The whole point of plain bearing cranks is that there is no metal to metal contact. so there are no break in issues there. Transmissions sort themselves out fairly quickly and the  cam to head journal clearances are big enough to really not worry about. So no real problems with running this motor hard out of the crate as long as it's properly warmed first. Oil change at 30 miles and run on the dyno at 250 miles. Since then I have added a Factory Pro St3 kit, K&N pod filters and an Akropovic system. It now makes 126.6 bhp on the same dyno! Now the actual bhp figures may be accurate, they may be not. No 2 dynos read the same, but what is for sure is that I have gained 21bhp and the torque curve is awesome. Those that have seen my other post will know that by next Easter this bike will be a street legal dragbike running in the 9.5s Bracket class we have in the UK. The next stage is some headwork and a 1216 kit. I already have cams waiting to go in too and I'm looking for 160bhp before I stick the laughing gas into it. Watch this space...

Yogi

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Hydrogen on May 14, 2005, 05:47:32 PM

I got 98 at the wheel when stock.

Oh, I'mmmm Baaa'aaack.!!
-H

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Bob Holland on May 14, 2005, 06:49:02 PM

Quote from: "yogi"

Broken in hard. The whole point of plain bearing cranks is that there is no metal to metal contact. so there are no break in issues there. Transmissions sort themselves out fairly quickly and the  cam to head journal clearances are big enough to really not worry about. So no real problems with running this motor hard out of the crate as long as it's properly warmed first. Oil change at 30 miles and run on the dyno at 250 miles. Since then I have added a Factory Pro St3 kit, K&N pod filters and an Akropovic system. It now makes 126.6 bhp on the same dyno! Now the actual bhp figures may be accurate, they may be not. No 2 dynos read the same, but what is for sure is that I have gained 21bhp and the torque curve is awesome. Those that have seen my other post will know that by next Easter this bike will be a street legal dragbike running in the 9.5s Bracket class we have in the UK. The next stage is some headwork and a 1216 kit. I already have cams waiting to go in too and I'm looking for 160bhp before I stick the laughing gas into it. Watch this space...

Yogi

Good luck on your project. I have been running the Suzuki oil cooled, GSXR and Bandit , since the early 1990s, and I have run every size, 1186, 1201, 1216, and now have a 1246 Bandit. The 1216 is probably
the best combo for this engine. I use the JE piston kits excelp for the 1201, which was Wiseco. I havn't dynoed my bike since I put the Cammotion G21 cams in, it dynoed 155 with stock GSXR cams.

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Hydrogen on May 19, 2005, 01:12:55 AM

Just as a heads up, they make a 1341 kit for it now.. That and a set of center pull flat side carbs (the big suckas) should get you close to 190ish before the juice even hits it.

Of course, I've got HuffDaddy tuning my bike. That guy could milk a chicken.

-H

Title: at the wheel or crank h.p
Post by: Bob Holland on May 20, 2005, 09:41:36 AM

1246 is the largest you can go with the Bandit stock cylinders and stock crank, 1216 for the GSXR oil cooled, you can got to 1371 cc with 86 mm pistons, but you have to have a aftermarket cylinder and split the cases and have the top of the cases bored to fit the bigger cyl.
The things you can do with the Suzuki oil cooled motor is almost unlimited.
Just cost a lot of money.