MODEL SPECIFIC > SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL
Best Oil?
bandibull:
Assuming that we are talking about "particles" in the clutch,
then I would would think any piece of the clutch large
enough to cause scoring should be picked up by a good
multimedia filter.
The 37k oil/filter change was a bit extreme. This last time I went ahead
and changed the filter at 25k and simply poured the old oil back
in to the bike. No doubt I'll leave this oil in the bike for another
25k then just change oil and filter. Addititives should be at
50% at 50k. I doubt the viscosity will have changed at all.
I only have 65k on the bike so have yet to see any bearing problems.
In fact I have yet to see any engine problems at all.
She starts first time, every time.
God, ain't the Bandit grand.
I am curious as to what a clutch patical would look like on an oil test.
Any ideas? Iron? Silicon?
Oh Well, If I fry the engine do to my poor maintaince then I will
finally have an excuse to do my 1340cc rebuild.
My bike, however insists on running well and even those pesky
Suzuki cams still look good after all this time running the A-oil.
Maybe I'll get to rebuild at 200k. 300k?
:lol: :beers: :lol:
BBurton:
That is amazing.... I have never heard of anyone going that far between oil and filter changes. I personally would never do it, even if I was using Amsoil or Mobil 1. I could see myself going to 6k or 7k using full synthetic, but I would change the filter every change. Sounds like it works for you, guess I just walk on the side of caution!! Never forget that when we all give our opinions, it's because we are experts.... :bs: :lol:
bandibull:
Thats why I'm not a big fan of opinions.
I try to stick with observable facts. This includes my past maintenence,
oil tests and even how well the bike runs.
In the previous post, the only opinion stated was that I thought that
an oil filter should filter out particles large enough to do serious
damage to an engine. The fact that my engine still runs great at
65k miles help bolster this opinion, but its still an opinion.
By the way, thats a good multimedia filter that has high capacity
as well as minute filtering capability. Many oil tests indicate
that the Amoil filter is one of these. There are probably
others out there but none that I have actually tested myself.
Possibly someone can show good evidence that oil filters do not filter
out particles that might cause damage to an engine.
As to the 25,000 mile filter change, that comes directly from doing
oil tests every few thousand miles and watching the levels of
comtaminants. They remained low and relatively steady until
after 25,000 miles.
:lol: :beers: :lol:
BBurton:
On the V-Strom board, oil is also a pretty hot topic. A guy who has been around for a while made a comment on oil yesterday. He said that you WILL NOT find any oils that are energy conserving above 10W40 weight. He said that the reason is because the whole purpose of energy conserving oils "with friction modifiers" would be defeating the whole point of energy conserving in these higher weights. I went to the store and I couldn't find ANY oils that were energy conserving above 10W40, whether it was dino, blended or full synthetic. I checked pretty much all the brands on the shelf, which was alot!! Didn't know if anyone was aware of this, may be old news. :duh: His info seems to be right on the money, as well as stating that the ONLY true synthetic oil on the market is Amsoil.
Others "claim" to be, but aren't. :shock:
PaulVS:
--- Quote from: "BBurton" ---as well as stating that the ONLY true synthetic oil on the market is Amsoil.
Others "claim" to be, but aren't. :shock:
--- End quote ---
He's totally F.O.S.
There are several Group IV-V synthetics, which includes, but certainly is not limited to Amsoil.
Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Motul, and Redline are PAO Group IV-V
Of course Amsoil is like religion to some people.
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