Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: Elmojo on May 26, 2005, 11:12:56 PM
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Hi all,
I'm back from a too-long hiatus from the bandito!
I've got a really odd question...
My '02 b12s has started sounding like it has tweety birds in the heads!
Seriously, shortly after I switched to full synthetic, I began to notice this strange high-pitched chirpy sound, mostly at mild to moderate throttle, and always a lower speeds, such as when slowing to turn a corner in 2nd or 3rd gear. When I round the corner and come back on the gas a bit, I hear a chirpy sound from the engine until around 3-4k rpms. The sound may be going away or it may just be drowned out by the wind.
The most curious thing about the sound is that I noticed almost the exact same sound from my '92 Nighthawk 750, also after switching to synthetic oil. That squeak was fixed by adding hi-tach oil climbing agent to the synthetic. I'd rather not add anything to mr. bandito if I can help it.
Any ideas?
Thanks to everyone,
Mike Piantanida IV
P.S. - On a possibly related note, I've also noticed a very disturbing *chunk* sound from the engine area during warm-up. The bike idles smoothly, but a little high (of course with the choke on), but then at irregular intervals, I get this horrible-sounding clunk/chunk sound, the tach drops about 50-100 rpms, then the bike resumes idling. It only does it during warm-up for about the first minute or two, and it's much worse at lower choke settings, and the corresponding lower idle speeds. It really sounds like two heavy and important pieces banging together inside a bath of oil, but the bike hasn't exploded yet, so I'm assuming it's something else! Sorry for the novel, but these two problems have kinda got me spooked. :(
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Which synth oil? Is this the same kind of synth you used in the Nighthawk?
Did you have the clunk-clunk noise before the oil change?
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To answer Paul's questions:
Which synth oil?
Shell Rotella T full synthetic 5w-40.
Is this the same kind of synth you used in the Nighthawk?
No. I was using Castrol Syntec in the nighthawk.
Did you have the clunk-clunk noise before the oil change?
Yes. This particular sound has occured since I bought the bike, with about 2k miles on the clock, although it does seem more pronounced now, but I may just be paying closer attention.
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The jetting is a bit lean and if the carbs are even a bit out of sync it might be the reason for the clunking sound. My 2003 1200 did this until I carefully synched the carbs and backed out the idle mixture screws a half turn to richen the mixture at idle.
Just a thought.
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Rotella "fully synthetic" isn't fully synthetic at all. It's a fraud, just like Castrol's syntec.
Try Mobil 1.
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Ray - Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try.
PaulVS - You know, that just makes me mad! Although it does explain the relatively low price when compared to other synthetics. Which weight Mobil 1 do you prefer?
Does anyone have ideas on this chirping noise? That's the one that really worries me, since it just started and happens all the time, not just during warm-up.
Thanks,
Mike P.
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I do'nt know,only guessing. Could it be the cam chain? Did you adjust the valves latey or have the cover off for any other reason?
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Nope, the engine has not been touched since I bought it. I was told by the dealer that the initial valve adjustment had been done after break-in, but I have no way to verify. The chirping noise only started recently, though. Anyone else have an idea?
Thanks,
Mike P.
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I'd pop the valve cover and have a look. Look at cam chain condition and cams and rockers for signs of oil starvation. Might as well check valve adjustment while you're in there. If everything looks normal, I'd change back to whatever oil you were using before and see if it goes away.
:idea: While I've never heard of anyone having a problem with the PAIR system, I suppose it is possible for it to cause air noises that may "chirp" is there is a leak.
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PaulVS - You know, that just makes me mad! Although it does explain the relatively low price when compared to other synthetics. Which weight Mobil 1 do you prefer?
Right now I'm using their "Truck & SUV Formula" 5w40.
I've also used the 15w50 and it worked great. Next I'm going to try their "Extended Service" 10w30. With Mobil 1... my bike runs smoother, shifts a lot smoother, and doesn't 'tick' at all during cool-down. (running cooler)
Just make sure to get a viscosity that isn't labeled "energy conserving" in the circular label.
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I'd pop the valve cover and have a look. Look at cam chain condition and cams and rockers for signs of oil starvation. Might as well check valve adjustment while you're in there.
How in-depth of a job is that? I have the Clymer service manual, but I haven't had a chance to look it over. Will I need to replace any gaskets, washers, etc... after removing the cover? Also, are there any special tools required? I had thought about checking/adjusting the valves, but I was scared to open her up without due cause. Maybe this is the cause I need!
Thanks,
Mike P.
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The valve cover gasket is re-usable, but you'll need a dab of silicone gasket stuff for the corners at the cam plugs. No special tools required to remove it, everything you need is in the OEM tool kit. (The 10mm bolts may need a better wrench than what's in the tool kit.) It's a pretty simple and straight-forward job.