Author Topic: Looking to rejet  (Read 6046 times)

Offline antonovich

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Looking to rejet
« on: April 30, 2008, 11:51:23 PM »
I tried searching first, but didn't really find what i was looking for.  I have a 1996 B6 with a K&N drop in and a scorpion slip on.  The carbs are running pretty rich right now and I plan on having to clean them out.  I was wondering if anyone was running a similar setup, and if/how they rejetted.  I saw that ivan's jet kit is only 2000^ and the holeshot kit is a little pricey if all i need to do is buy a few jets from the dealership, and shim my needle's.  What size jets do you think i should jump up to?  Hopefully you guys have some good input.  Thanks

Offline pmackie

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2008, 03:17:59 PM »
Hi antonovich

I'm not really familiar with the 1st gen, but it surprises me that you think the carbs are rich? Lean is more common.

Here is what I have done...

1. Drilled the air screws, and turned screws out 2-3/4 turns
2. 1 - 1mm shim under each needle
3. up one size on main jet, to 95

This setup is likely just a little lean of optimum (for performance) but is FAR better than stock.

This is with a stock airbox, with snorkle removed, Leo Vince slip-on. I normally ride above 1500/2000 feet, so this would be too lean for sea level.
Paul
2002-GSF600S, Progressive Fork Springs, B12 Shock,
SS Brake lines, EBC HH pads, Leo Vince Ex & Kappa bags.
Ex Bike Mechanic (late 70's), somewhat rusty
32 years in the Fuel/lubes industry(Retired)

Offline ProfApop

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2008, 04:17:41 PM »
I'm doing a few upgrades on my 96' B6 and just bought a Factory Pro 1.0 kit for my bike. it was around $120 plus shipping. Needles, springs, main and pilot jets and new allen screws for the bowls....oh yeah, from what I have read, suggestions on best bowl height and fuel/air mixture based on various setups.

Offline antonovich

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2008, 10:39:05 PM »
For some reason my bike smells very gassy.  It is my guess that its just getting too much fuel.  My exhuast also backfires a good amount when engine breaking/downshifting.  I was thinking it could be due to the overabundance of fuel.  Any input?

Where did you find the Factory Pro 1.0 kit?  I might just do that since it seems easiest

Offline ProfApop

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2008, 11:26:29 AM »
http://www.factorypro.com/

Got my kit on Monday. It comes with the following for the 96' B6:

Main jets - 4x 105, 2 x 102 (they suggest you start with using the 4 x 105)
Needles - 4 needles and 8 needle clips and 8 washers/shims
Allen bolts - 16 to replace the bowl screws

Didn't come with pilot jets or springs....guess it depends on the bike. Was $129 + shipping. Kinda expensive but hopefully it will perk up my Bandit (considering every orifice in my carbs was stuffed with rust from my tank, anything should help....lol).

They also give you tuning tips and their best way to tune the carbs: 1 start with main jet choice for top speed; 2. then go to needle height for mid-range; 3. float height for low end; 4. then finally fuel mixture screw. Or something like that if I remember correctly. They also provide you with a could of actual Bandit set up scenarios based from their own database of owners who have provided data (although none of them exactly fit my bandit).

I fitted my carbs with their base scheme. 105 mains all the way around, needles with clip on #2 plus 2 washers on top, 3 turns out for fuel/air screw, standard float height (17 mm). I'm hoping my main changes after this will be either the needle height and/or fuel/air screw in order to get it decently tuned.

If you are going to retune with a kit...or even just breakdown/clean the carbs, I would suggest you also synch the carbs.

Offline antonovich

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2008, 04:17:21 PM »
does sound like a lot of money for the stuff in that kit, but I heard that the needles are deffinately different than stock.  I've never synched carbs before.  You don't happen to live in CT? haha  It would be nice to have the help of someone who knows what they are doing.

Offline ProfApop

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2008, 12:42:29 AM »
I don't know what I'm doing...lol. But I do have a haynes manual for my bike. Best investment I've ever bought. Do yourself a favor and get either the Haynes or Clymer's manual for your bandit...well worth the $25 or so bucks.

To synch the carbs your need either a quadruple vacuum gauge or a mercury (they don't use mercury anymore) guage.

Holeshot.com sells a quad vacuum gauge for around $65.

Motion-pro sells a mercury guage (uses other liquid than merc)

Carbtune.com sells a mercury guage (uses stainless steel rods) $115

I've never synched the carbs before but it is supposed to be pretty simple. I'll do it once I get my bike back in running order by next weekend. You synch the carbs basically so that there is equal delivery of gas/air to the engine from each carb. If you are going to spend the money for a jet kit, you should synch the carbs. Or you could take it to the shop and have them do it...but probably cost you about the same as the vacuum gauge I should think.

1. take off gas tank and run longer fuel line to tank and bike.
2. connect vacuum lines from the 4 vacuum gauges/merc gauges to vacuum connectors on the bandit (Tank has gas line to carbs and a second connect that runs to one of the vacuum connectors on carbs...the other 3 on carbs have caps on them. Disconnect caps and connect vac line from the gauge)
3. Start bike and set idle at ~1750 rpm
4. There are three screw on the carbs. I. Two are located right next to the 2 lines that run from the carbs back over the top of your air filter box. II. The other is between the two middle carbs next to throttle cables.....
5. turn the each screw (I)  - screw between #1 and #2 carb will adjust/synch #1 to #2 (the vac gauge attached to those carbs will equalize). Then do the screw between carb #3 & #4 to equalize the vacuum.
6. Then turn the screw next to the throttle cables (between carb #2 and #3) to equalize carbs 1 & 2 to 3 & 4.
7. reset idle to 1250 rpm and blip throttle and see if carbs remain synched. They should...or need only minor adjustment.
8. if OK. put caps back on carb vacuum nozzles. put tank back on and connect things back up.....and ride!!!!

Well, it sounds simple enough. You just need the gauges.

Offline ProfApop

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Re: Looking to rejet
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2008, 12:52:28 AM »
If I were you I would go with the Holeshot.com jet kit. I think it is $85 without the K&N filter which you already have. I'm not exactly sure what you get but I believe you also get a 5 degree advancer along with shims for your carbs, plus main jets. You use the same needles.

$85 for holeshot stage 1 jet kit (http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/bndt_b6_stage1.shtml)
$28 for a manual (http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/bndt_servicemanual.shtml)
$65 holeshot vacuum gauge (http://www.holeshot.com/tools/index.shtml)

You are then good to go!