Author Topic: Chain adjust. (Read 11823 times)

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #15 on:** March 16, 2005, 11:56:37 PM »

Quote from: "Red01"

I measure it on the kickstand, then put it on the C-stand to adjust, back to the K-stand to double check my work and readjust if need be.

Damn good thinking... guess that's why you get the big bucks!!

Steve · « **Reply #16 on:** March 17, 2005, 04:22:50 AM »

FYI - I just checked my log book, my OEM setup lasted 25,183 miles. Paul & I are essentially doing the chain adjustment the same way. The only difference that I see is that Paul used the weight of the bike on the side stand to check and I sit on to check. I perform the actual adjustment on the center stand. It's amazing how much the chain tightens when you spin down the axle nut.

Another consideration in chain wear and bike handling could be rear wheel alignment. I sure there are lots of ways that folks do this also. I use the depth guage extension on my dial calipers to set my axle the same distance from the rear of the swing arm on both sides. The reference marks are probably good enough, and I use them when I travel if I have to adjust. The calipers are just easier for me to end up confident that the alignment is good.

Now I am running a 530ZVM Gold chain with a 47t rear sprkt and a sunstar 15t front. Love it!!!

Steve

lwg · « **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2005, 05:16:18 PM »

Got a chance to check the chain today. 1 1/8" play @ 6400+ miles. Lubed it and think I'll check it again in 500 or so.

Kamzilla · « **Reply #18 on:** March 30, 2005, 10:54:18 AM »

I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly. Is there a certain way to do it?

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #19 on:** March 30, 2005, 11:12:42 AM »

Quote from: "Kamzilla"

I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly.

I ran into the same problem on my B6... the little plates with the alignment marks slide around and aren't necessarily the same on each side. That and they move when you tighten the axle nut. I saw an alignment tool at the dealership - basically some aluminum angle and a rod..... $22.00 and I said

but NO

.

Went to the wood shop and made something similar using plywood and a brass rod. The plywood clamps to the sprocket and the brass rod points toward the front about 12-14 inches. You can then see if the rear wheel/sprocket is in line with the chain.

Will post a picture if anyone is interested.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 30, 2005, 11:17:06 AM »

Quote

Will post a picture if anyone is interested.

Kamzilla · « **Reply #21 on:** March 30, 2005, 11:56:59 AM »

I noticed the same thing about the alignment marks. Initially, I loosened the axle nut too much, and everytime I thought I had it right, a little move, and I'd be adjusting again. To say that I was frustrated is an understatement.

Definitely post that picture up.

ray nielsen · « **Reply #22 on:** March 30, 2005, 02:51:25 PM »

On my Bandit 1200 I've only done two chain adjustments and found a little trick that seems to work to keep the adjuster plate from moving when tightening the axle nut. I use a small, round rod as a wedge to keep the adjuster plate against the adjuster bolt when tightening the axle nut. I've not had the right side move, only the left where the nut is. Seems the movement of the nut against the easher causes the movement and this trick has resulted in NO movement during tightening.

I use a Muzzy alignment gauge (about $100) to verify alignment and it seems to work much better than the cheaper Motion Pro item that attaches to the sprocker.

Check Muzzy's web site for a picture of the device -- If you're clever with tools you could probably make it for a lot less than Muzzy charges. The Muzzy gauge is made by someone else for them I suspect -- it adjusts over a broad range longitudinally and laterally to fit virtually any bike with hollow axle and swing arm pivot bolts.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #23 on:** March 30, 2005, 05:41:11 PM »

Kam... will post pics later tonight.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #24 on:** March 30, 2005, 10:24:41 PM »

Pretty simple to build.. nothing has to be real accurate except the groove for the rod must be parallel with the surface that clamps against the sprocket. My rod is about 18" so the centerstand needs to be lowered but any slight tweeking of the adjusting nuts shows at the tip.

And an end view.......

[/img]

Red01 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 31, 2005, 12:52:58 AM »

Quote from: "txbanditrydr"

My rod is about 18"

Quit braggin' - don't you know it's how you use it that counts.
(At least that's what all us bull hampsters say)

chupacabra · « **Reply #26 on:** March 31, 2005, 07:56:16 AM »

I use about half of of hunting arrow, simply hold it to the back side of the rear sprocket and view the other end. Very cheap and very straight won't bend like some solid rods.

Kamzilla · « **Reply #27 on:** April 01, 2005, 12:12:58 PM »

The arrow solution sounds good enough for me. I'll see if I can pick one up and hopefully I'll be able to get this job done soon.

Here's something else I found:http://motorcyclistonline.com/howto/stringalign0402/

Steve · « **Reply #28 on:** April 11, 2005, 09:48:56 PM »

Quote

I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly. Is there a certain way to do it?

Quote

I use the depth guage extension on my dial calipers to set my axle the same distance from the rear of the swing arm on both sides.

You can get a set of calipers fairly cheap and they come in handy for lots of things.

Steve