Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: lwg on March 14, 2005, 10:39:28 AM
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Under "normal" riding conditions, at what average mileage does a B12 chain need adjusted? I have 6400 miles on my '03 and haven't adjusted it yet or even checked it lately. It gets cleaned and lubed regularly.
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I'm a little surprised you haven't had to adjust it, but at 6400 miles, that will soon change!!! :lol:
As the chains wears/ages, you'll start adjusting it more frequently.
You may be keeping wonderful care of your chain and you're eliminating all the wear from dirt, sand, and stuff by keeping it clean.....but I suspect you'll have to start adjusting it, soon.
6400 miles without any adjustments doesn't sound 'right'.
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I use a Scott Oiler and adjusted my chain at about 2500 miles and again at about 11,000 miles. In each case it was 1/6 of a turn or "one flat".
I'm impressed with the original chain quality, my previous bike's chain was shot at 4K miles, even with care and cleaning.
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You can't set a mile-to-adjust. It's as needed. That said, the bulk of the stretch your chain will see has already happend. I suspect your chain is currently way too loose if the bike has 6400 miles on it and you have really never adjusted it.
I checked/adjusted mine at every service (as needed) starting with the 600 mile. The chain and sprocket set lasted me something like 16,000 miles.
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I can't grasp what "normal" riding conditions are. Everyone does it a bit differently. I check my chain tension frequently, at least as often as I clean/lube it, which is 300 miles usually. But Manny hit it right on the money, adjustment is done on an "as needed" basis. Cleaning and lube is done on a periodic basis.
You pop on a new chain/sprkt setup and you have to do one or two quick adjustments as things settle in. Then adjustments (at least for me) are very infrequent for 10 K mi or so.
The fastest way that I have found to destroy a good chain is to run it too tight. I check my chain tension with the chain warm, with me sitting on the bike, and try to find the tightest section of the chain. If it is clearly too tight I will adjust it, carefully. If you carry passengers I would check it with a passenger aboard too.
Like Manny said, I adjust it as needed, but not that often. When frequent adjustments are required you will notice that the sprockets are getting worn, the bike surges and falls at steady low speeds, things just don't feel right.
Steve
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I oil and check my chain every second tank of fuel, and as you say Steve, I adjust as required, probably every 2500-5000km - depending on riding conditions, pillions etc. In my experience I've found that if I'm having to adjust my chain every second tank of fuel (that's around 4-500km) then it's time to start saving for a new chain.
On the B12 I got 18,000km out of the oem chain and only replaced the front spocket, which I figure for a bike of this weight a power would be about right.
On my last bike (GSX600F - I believe they're called Katanas in the 'states) I got around 30,000km from the chain, but had to replace both sprockets.
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18,000 Km, that's about 12,000 Miles... My 1GB6 has done 19,500 Miles and still on its first chain. I was just checking the chain for if it needed adjusting and found a small kink between two of the links.
Based on the mileage put on the chain and the kink do you guys think I should go ahead and grab a new chain?
On first inspection the sprockets seem fine but I'll have another looky later but because of the mileage should I go all out and replace the sprockets too?
Thanks
Adam
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If your going to replace your chain, its recommend to replace the sprockets. I did. did'nt look back.
Try this site for parts.
http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/index.html
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I check my chain tension with the chain warm, with me sitting on the bike
Now THAT I would like to see.
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If you can tie your shoes you can do this too. :banana: All you have to do is keep as much body weight as possible on the bike and reach down and check the chain tension. This is much easier done with the left hand. Most folks can come close to guessing what an inch is (or 25.4mm if you prefer) and you can go from there. I usually put an index mark on a side plate at the tightest section so I can easily identify it, and to serve as a start/stop line for cleaning and lubing.
A lot of premature chain/sprocket wear can be caused by bouncing the combined bike & rider weight against the chain when riding with the chain tension set so that the suspension does not have full travel without stressing the chain.
I am not advocating running the chain ridiculously loose, just not too tight.
Steve
Hey Noonie, I would loosen the chain, way loose. Lube the devil out of the bound up links and flex them vigorously back and forth until they loosen up a bit. Readjust everything and ride and check and rideand check. And start saving for your new chain & sprockets. You might still get some more life out of your current set up though. Maybe not?
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Hey that seems like good advice Steve... I have the cash for a new chain and sprocket set now but I'll have a go at your suggestion and see what happens.
What's a typical life expectancy of a well looked after OEM chain?
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Noonie,
I don't have my log with me but it seems that I got around 20k out of my stock chain & sprkt. setup, maybe a bit more. My riding includes lots of brisk starts, some compression braking and a few power wheelies here and there. I do have my own chain ritual and do it regularly. At the point that I replaced my final drive many would have gone longer, and some would have done it earlier.
I tend to shy away from terms like "normal" or "average" because I have seen stuff that someone thought was normal that was bizarre to me.
When you mess with your chain, look for physical signs of damage, if you have torn or missing O-rings (especially at the frozen links) your chain is pretty much done in.
Steve
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Having riden with Steve, I'd say our riding styles are similar, and sounds like out chain rituals are, too. FWIW, I only got 15K miles out of my OEM chain, but the DID VM that's on it now has >19K miles and is still looking good.
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From what I read here and in the owners manual the chain should be adjusted while on the side stand or with weight on it. Have I been doing it wrong to use the centerstand?? :duh: Sure is easier that way.
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Yup, you've been doing it wrong. The swingarm sags down when on the C-stand.
I measure it on the kickstand, then put it on the C-stand to adjust, back to the K-stand to double check my work and readjust if need be.
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I measure it on the kickstand, then put it on the C-stand to adjust, back to the K-stand to double check my work and readjust if need be.
Damn good thinking... guess that's why you get the big bucks!! :thanks:
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FYI - I just checked my log book, my OEM setup lasted 25,183 miles. Paul & I are essentially doing the chain adjustment the same way. The only difference that I see is that Paul used the weight of the bike on the side stand to check and I sit on to check. I perform the actual adjustment on the center stand. It's amazing how much the chain tightens when you spin down the axle nut.
Another consideration in chain wear and bike handling could be rear wheel alignment. I sure there are lots of ways that folks do this also. I use the depth guage extension on my dial calipers to set my axle the same distance from the rear of the swing arm on both sides. The reference marks are probably good enough, and I use them when I travel if I have to adjust. The calipers are just easier for me to end up confident that the alignment is good.
Now I am running a 530ZVM Gold chain with a 47t rear sprkt and a sunstar 15t front. Love it!!!
:banana:
Steve
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Got a chance to check the chain today. 1 1/8" play @ 6400+ miles. Lubed it and think I'll check it again in 500 or so.
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I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly. Is there a certain way to do it?
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I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly.
I ran into the same problem on my B6... the little plates with the alignment marks slide around and aren't necessarily the same on each side. That and they move when you tighten the axle nut. I saw an alignment tool at the dealership - basically some aluminum angle and a rod..... $22.00 and I said :thanks: but NO :thanks: .
Went to the wood shop and made something similar using plywood and a brass rod. The plywood clamps to the sprocket and the brass rod points toward the front about 12-14 inches. You can then see if the rear wheel/sprocket is in line with the chain.
Will post a picture if anyone is interested.
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Will post a picture if anyone is interested.
:bigok:
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I noticed the same thing about the alignment marks. Initially, I loosened the axle nut too much, and everytime I thought I had it right, a little move, and I'd be adjusting again. To say that I was frustrated is an understatement.
Definitely post that picture up.
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On my Bandit 1200 I've only done two chain adjustments and found a little trick that seems to work to keep the adjuster plate from moving when tightening the axle nut. I use a small, round rod as a wedge to keep the adjuster plate against the adjuster bolt when tightening the axle nut. I've not had the right side move, only the left where the nut is. Seems the movement of the nut against the easher causes the movement and this trick has resulted in NO movement during tightening.
I use a Muzzy alignment gauge (about $100) to verify alignment and it seems to work much better than the cheaper Motion Pro item that attaches to the sprocker.
Check Muzzy's web site for a picture of the device -- If you're clever with tools you could probably make it for a lot less than Muzzy charges. The Muzzy gauge is made by someone else for them I suspect -- it adjusts over a broad range longitudinally and laterally to fit virtually any bike with hollow axle and swing arm pivot bolts.
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Kam... will post pics later tonight. :beers:
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Pretty simple to build.. nothing has to be real accurate except the groove for the rod must be parallel with the surface that clamps against the sprocket. My rod is about 18" so the centerstand needs to be lowered but any slight tweeking of the adjusting nuts shows at the tip.
(http://img105.exs.cx/img105/5871/chaintool017ig.jpg)
(http://img105.exs.cx/img105/5562/chaintool022fd.jpg)
And an end view.......
(http://img105.exs.cx/img105/7198/chaintool033zr.jpg)[/img]
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My rod is about 18"
Quit braggin' - don't you know it's how you use it that counts.
(At least that's what all us bull hampsters say)
:banana:
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I use about half of of hunting arrow, simply hold it to the back side of the rear sprocket and view the other end. Very cheap and very straight won't bend like some solid rods.
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The arrow solution sounds good enough for me. I'll see if I can pick one up and hopefully I'll be able to get this job done soon.
Here's something else I found:http://motorcyclistonline.com/howto/stringalign0402/
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I adjusted my chain last night, but can't seem to get the wheel aligned properly. Is there a certain way to do it?
I use the depth guage extension on my dial calipers to set my axle the same distance from the rear of the swing arm on both sides.
You can get a set of calipers fairly cheap and they come in handy for lots of things.
Steve