Chain Replacement--OEM Standard

[Sven]

Over the past months, I've been reading the threads here about chain replacements and options.  To be honest, there are so many options and preferences expressed by y'all that it's overwhelming.

Based on a previous discussion, I am nearing needing to replace the chain and sprockets, and would just as soon keep the original sprocket size/ratio.  However, I don't feel like the OEM chain held up as well as it should have, and many of you feel the same way.   So, my question:

If I want to maintain the original OEM standards for sprocket size and chain, what should I buy?  Would I get the OEM sprockets and some other brand chain?

Also, I intend to bring the parts to the shop and have them do the labor...if this affects your advice at all, please let me know how.

[Cruisecontrol]

I recently had the chain and sprockets replaced on my 96 B12 (several hundred Kms before I wrote it off, damn it). I specified what type of chain I wanted and got some OEM sprockets put on. I got a quote on the job before the work was done to check on the prices, was happy and let them do it all.

[2005B12S]

JTSprockets and Vortex are two excellent sources for sprockets. Any cycle supply store can order a chain, RK and Tsubaki are both quality chains. Either in a premium O-ring should give longer life than the stock one. I have yet to replace either on my B12, but have used both brands on other bikes.

If you plan to have a shop do the work, check with them first as some shops will give you a price break on labor if you order parts thru them. Unless they are very overpriced, that may be your best option.

Good Luck, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED

[Red01]

Also, I intend to bring the parts to the shop and have them do the labor...if this affects your advice at all, please let me know how.

Be sure the shop will install parts you bring in. Many will not.

Sunstar is another good sprocket company.

Aftermarket countershaft sprockets will be noisier since they don't have the rubber damper, so for a quieter drive, an OEM countershaft sprocket would be the choice.

I'm sure any of the name brand chains premium line (usually an X or some other shape than a plain O) is a good choice. The wear index numbers for DID's ZVM are unsurpassed, though the VM is also very high and is plenty strong enough for the job. My first B12 replacement chain was a VM and I replaced it with a ZVM a few months ago. The VM had >20K miles on it and was still doing OK, but I was getting ready for a long trip and didn't want to risk it, so I put a fresh one on.

[ray nielsen]

There are lots of options for chains AND sprockets.

DID X-ring chains are very long lasting in my experience as are both Sunstar and Sprocket Specialists sprockets.  

Check out <www.sprocketspecialists.com> or <www.denniskirk.com> where you'll find both chains and sprockets listed for the Bandit.

When using a DID X-Ring chain I recommend the rivet type master link which requires a riveting tool to install properly.  A shop would be a good choice if you don't want to invest in the tool (about $100) to do the job.  

You might also consider checking in at <www.mcnews.com> and going to Forums where you'll find a recommendation foa Teflon based chain lubricant that seems to work really well and keeps the rear wheel very clean too.

Another choice would be to use a chain oiler like the Scott Oiler available at <www.actionstation.com> or through Aerostich Wearhouse at <www.aerostich.com>.

I like the Scott Oiler and although it messes up the rear wheel a bit it is "automatic" and requires refilling about every 800 - 900 miles to so.

[B12Teuton]

I can also speak for Vortex Racing.
Great product and good price.  They have the right parts for our bikes and I have nothing but good things to say.

[Sven]

to all of you for providing several choices!

[Sven]

At Bike Bandit, I see the DVD chain has a "natural rivet" and a "gold rivet" connecting link that are sold separately from the chain.  Do I need to order one of those, or does one come with the chain and these are only if you needed to remove and reinstall that chain?  Is there a difference between them?

This gets more involved than it ought to be...

[Sven]

And another thing...

If I remember correctly, the OEM chain is a 110-link chain, but I only find the DID chain (at several online e-tailers) in a 120- and 130-link option.  Do you just remove the excess?  Or is there a 110-link version I'm just not finding.

Also, it comes in black or gold...any thoughts on color?  I sort of like the idea of the chain not standing out, and not looking dirty, so I would lean towards the black.  The OEM was gold.

I know I ask a lot of basic questions (and I'm not apologizing for doing so), but I've spent my whole like trying to avoid automotive maintenance (but I can build ya a PC from components!), but with this bike I've learned a lot of things and have been doing a lot of things myself, and this board has been an incredible resource!  So, again, thanks for your thoughtful answers.

[Red01]

The DID chains I've bought came with a matching rivet link. The natural and gold are just color options. No real difference in strength. I bought my ZVM from Holeshot and in came in 112 links. Just had to cut off the extra. (If you ask for the 'Bandit Owners discount' it will be even cheaper than the price on his site.) If you buy in 120 or 130 link versions, you'll have to cut off what you don't need.

[terrebandit]

I'd go with the 530 DID ZVM 112 link with the stock countersprocket (because its quieter but other brands will work fine too) and your choice of steel rear sprocket (JT, Sunstar, Sprocket Specialists, etc).  Stay with the stock gearing.  The stock chain is 110 links so you will have to remove two links.  It comes with a rivet link and your dealer will have the tool to shorten the chain and press fit it on.  If you live near me, I will help you as I have the tool.

e-mail or call this guy and he will set you up with a chain and sprockets.  He has the best prices and his name is Rick.  Tell him that Dave Terre sent you.

Raceparts@cogent-dynamics.com Phone: (828) 628 9025

[Bazza]

I would 2nd the nomination of staying with stock gearing. I have played with gearing and unless your just staying around town etc, I find the stock gearing perfect. Yes a couple of teeth on the back will add fun but will also add noise & vibration on the highway.

You should also stick with the OEM front sprocket as aftermarket sprockets do make lots of noise. I had a friend who found an aftermarket front sprocket unbearable.

A good chain oiler (I have a pro oiler) will do the most to add life to you chain. I have 10,000 km on my new chain with the pro oiler and have not had to adjust it yet.

[jeepskate99]

I just soak my chain with wd-40 and re-lube it every 500-700 miles.  now at 25000 on the oem chain and only adjut four times since break in.

[gyrogearcrunch]

Also, I intend to bring the parts to the shop and have them do the labor...if this affects your advice at all, please let me know how.

Be sure the shop will install parts you bring in. Many will not.

Sunstar is another good sprocket company.

Aftermarket countershaft sprockets will be noisier since they don't have the rubber damper, so for a quieter drive, an OEM countershaft sprocket would be the choice.

I'm sure any of the name brand chains premium line (usually an X or some other shape than a plain O) is a good choice. The wear index numbers for DID's ZVM are unsurpassed, though the VM is also very high and is plenty strong enough for the job. My first B12 replacement chain was a VM and I replaced it with a ZVM a few months ago. The VM had >20K miles on it and was still doing OK, but I was getting ready for a long trip and didn't want to risk it, so I put a fresh one on.

I was wondering why my new chain and sprockets were so noisy! Really, does the OEM front sprocket have a rubber cushion built in? I never saw this on the sprocket I took off.

I replaced the OEM chain and sprockets at 12,000 miles because the chain was kinked. The primary sprocket's teeth were "hooked", but the driven sprocket looked OK. Nevertheless, all parts were replaced by an X-ring chain and sprockets from Parts Unlimited (cheap). When I inspected the new parts, I noticed that the "roll-forming" of the sprockets had left squished-out metal on both sides of both sprockets. I considered grinding off the excess metal, but then installed the sprockets "as is".  I imediately noticed a noise from the new parts, and it hasn't gone away after 4,000 miles. There seems to be enough clearance between the inside of the chain's sideplates and the sprockets to clear the side protrusions on the sprockets, and I made sure that the chain was running over both sprockets with an equal amount of clearance.

Your remark about a "cush" primary sprocket made me wonder, however.

Any advice that would elucidate this conundrum would be appreciated.

Herb

[Red01]

Yes, the stock countershaft sprocket has a rubber noise damper.

I noticed my non-damped replacement was noiser than the stocker. Either it has reduced a little over time, or I'm just used to it now, but it doesn't seem as bad as it was when new.

The flashing you have on yours doesn't sound good... I'm guessing it's a stamped sprocket, which are usually of a lesser quality level than machined bits. I'm not brand loyal to any sprocket company, but do want machined ones, not stamped ones.