Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: dsartwell1 on September 04, 2005, 10:34:12 PM
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I bought EBC HH pads for the front but need a step by step on how to make the swap. I've done car brakes before so I'm somewhat familiar with the process. My biggest questions are;
Do I need to remove the master cylinder cover?
Are there any particular things I need to be careful of?
Whats the best way to bed in the new pads?
TIA for any help you can give me. :beers:
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16 views and nobody responds.. not very nice! lol.
I uploaded 2 shots from my haynes manual, mainly because it's easier than explaining the whole thing and you get a good guide to work from if you want to print them out. To answer your questions though...
1: Depends how worn down your old pads were and if you can't push the pistons back in far enough using your hands or something that won't cause any damage, to be able to get the caliper back on with the new pads.
2: Yes.. Don't lose any of the bits.. I'm not listing everything, hence the haynes manual shots :)
3: Personally I just go for normal town use (frequent brake use) and am gentle for the first 25 miles (also to make sure you have got used to the increased performance over the stock pads if replacing them).
Shots are here:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/ribbitism/brakes1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/ribbitism/brakes2.jpg
Hope these help :grin:
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Thanks. Looks pretty straight forward. The text is a little hard to read but should make a good reference. If I take my time it should go fine. Pads are about half worn so hopefully I'll just be able to push them back in. Can't wait to see how the new ones work. :beers:
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Sorry about that.. I tried to compromise on the image size and quality to make them easily downloadable but still usable.. if you're on windows XP, just zoom in a bit and all text is clear :wink:
HH's are my pad of choice, I think you'll notice a huge improvement over stock.. change to braided lines too and you'll be stopping on a penny! :grin:
As an extra note though, you're probably aware but remember it is possible to warp the stock discs from too much hard use with increased performance pads, so do keep an eye on that if you're a hard braker :)
Hope all goes well!
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Thoroughly clean the exposed portion of the caliper pistons BEFORE pushing them back into their bores, lest you force dirt and crud past the seals. Use a toothbrush and brake cleaner and maybe Q-tips as well to get everything clean and crud free.
You may have to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder to allow for the fluid transfer when pushing the pistons back into the bores. You can replenish it later.
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You may have to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder to allow for the fluid transfer when pushing the pistons back into the bores. You can replenish it later.
If fluid has never been added to the master, you shouldn't need to remove any.