Author Topic: Front brake upgrade question (Read 5548 times)

ttewejnodnarb · « **on:** August 20, 2005, 03:43:48 PM »

I bought a '98 1200S with 28,000 miles about two months ago from a mechanic to replace a '02 Ducati M620ie that would not stop giving me problems. I gotta say I am FLOORED by this bike! The one slight fault I am finding is with the front brakes. As I mentioned this bike was previously owned by a mechanic and you could tell he loved it and took care of it. I have steel braided lines and there is about an inch of travel with little engagement, then the lever firms up with very little travel left. Does anyone else find this to be true of the Nissin four pots? I guess my first question is:

1) Any suggestions on finding the problem, if there is one? Should I bleed the suckers? I did have to put fluid in the master cylinder when I took it home.

2) If this is just a function of how they perform, do the 6 pot tokico calipers from '01 to '04 perform better? I can find them used for about $100 a piece. Are they a direct swap?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the lenght of this post! I'm new to the family!

oremike · « **Reply #1 on:** August 20, 2005, 07:01:12 PM »

I'd flush the system and bled the brakes, while doing that I'd look to see if a caliper is stuck. If every thing is working right and still not enough brakes I'd lnstall some DP brand HH compound pads on both sides. Idea here being to get the stock set up to work as good as it can, then looking to upgrades. Good luck and have fun Bandits are awsome bikes.

99er · « **Reply #2 on:** August 20, 2005, 08:49:09 PM »

I put up with a soft lever for a couple of years and decided that something had to be done. Constant bleeding doesn't do any good on my '99. I have braided lines and Ferodo Sintered ST pads with the original NISSIN calipers.

Fact is, there is air trapped in the master cylinder area and normal bleeding has no effect. I found that tapping the bolt union with a screwdriver butt on the master released some more but that repeated squeezing in quick succession of the lever released one heck of a froth. After about 10 minutes of this, the lever was rock solid and is still today. It helps to have the bike on its sidestand and to turn the bars left. you'll see why.

Make sure you cover your tank in case fluid gets out. There is a plate in the mater cylinder designed to protect rom this but sometimes it is discarded (easily removed). Don't overfill the reservior.

Marc/Atlanta

RUSS M8 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 26, 2005, 08:21:13 AM »

I use a compressed are operated vacume brake bleeder, easy peasy!!!
I don't know how you other guys put up with the old squeze nip, wait, no - oh shit! method

Once you have the use of an air compressor, you'll never go back

zeebandit · « **Reply #4 on:** August 26, 2005, 10:22:04 AM »

You can also take the top off the master cylinder, use a rubberband or wire tie from the grip to the brake lever to hold the lever about half way in and let it sit overnight.
This will get the air out. Just add fluid and you're done.
I tried this method and it does work.

99er · « **Reply #5 on:** August 27, 2005, 08:48:40 AM »

Take a pickle jar, a rubber grommet, a plastic tee, 1 foot of clear hose, and about 10 feet of vac line. Vac line to tee through the grommet placed in a hole in the jar lid. Clear line placed through another hole with a tight fit. Connect the vac line to your Ford and fire it up. Place the clear line in the reservoir or on the loosened caliper nipple, place your finger over the open tee, and suck the fluid out of that system in less than 30 seconds. Does a great job of cleaning the reservoirs, too.
I've used this on cars and bikes with great success. Couldn't see spending more than $4 on a brake bleeding tool.
As for the Bandit, you still need to pulse the lever to get it perfect.
Marc/Georgia USA

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