Author Topic: High-Mileage B12's out there? (Read 40545 times)

China Greg · « **on:** June 08, 2008, 02:23:44 AM »

I'd be glad to hear reports from any of you guys who may have put a lot of miles on any air-cooled B12.

What kind of technical problems have you experienced?
What happens as these motors age?

I have a 1998 with 20, 000 miles and a 1997 with almosy 40K:

- Drive-train problems, such as sticky shifting (yes, still, unfortunately.. must be internal forks or shift-drum damage from previouys owner), and clutch shuddering and rattling. I've been working trying to correct the basket, but I'll probably have to replace it eventually.
- a sound like cam-chain rattle (ESPECIALLY when cold!) and another that sounds like maybe a bad bearing near the trans area (these on separate bikes).
- The tabs break off the rear plastic side panels.
-My bikes are both very sensitive to dirty air-filters (perhaps my jetting choice).
- Spectacularly long rear-brake-pad life

PWRCRZR · « **Reply #1 on:** June 17, 2008, 09:46:22 PM »

I just bought my 1999 with 28,850 miles on it. The previous owner had zero problems. The bike has had a holeshot exhaust and stage 2 kit since day one. It still has factory brake pads and chain.

A mechanic I found at the local dealer who will work on my bike on the side said that he has 130,000 miles on his with nothing but basic maintnence issues. He is currently looking for a mint B12 to replace his.

Sven · « **Reply #2 on:** June 17, 2008, 11:24:21 PM »

Uh, my '03 has nearly 44K on it, and I didn't think it was a "high mileage" vehicle!

I 've replaced chain and sprockets and brake pads, plus consumables (brake fluid, oil, whatnot), but no problems. Can;t lay any claims to unusually good mileage, brake pad life, etc. Dunno what cam adjusted noise sounds like, even though Dale Walker was quoted in Motorcyclist about it recently.

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 18, 2008, 03:59:50 PM »

What do you consider high mileage? I wouldn't consider either of your bikes to be "high mileage" examples of a 10 year old B12.

Between this board & MS, I've read of many owners with >100,000 miles, a couple or three with >200,000 and one, that saw primary duty as a courier bike, with >300,000 miles.

My '01's mileage is slightly more than Sven's (~46K miles) and my mainteneace has been about the same - just consumables from normal wear & tear. I still have my OE rear pads, too.

My son's '97 is in this same mid 40's ballpark and his clutch is starting to slip (no shudders though). Seems most B12 clutches will last 50K miles or more, so this seems a hair early, but then again, we have no idea what the bike's life was really like during it's first 10 years & 40K, before he bought it. He did put new rear pads and replaced the rear rotor shortly after buying it... I'm guessing the previous owner(s) were fond of using the rear brake more often or at least with more pressure than the front because the front brakes were in real good shape, but the rears were SHOT.

Neither of our bikes have any shifting or cam chain problems.

China Greg · « **Reply #4 on:** June 19, 2008, 12:27:15 AM »

I've just returned from a trip to Canada on my B12.. just clicked-over 20,000 miles. After spending six days straight on the bike, I'm clear that it has a slight clutch shudder off the line, and it still shifts like a bread-truck, (my Maestro Mechanico believes the shift-drum is flawed).

Both of my B12's seem to develop a noticeably hard buzz from the drive-chain/front sprocket after extended highway running, even when lubed.. and I don't think I adjust them too tightly.

Oh yeah, the speedometer now swings slowly back and forth over a 20-mph range at 75 miles per hour.

PS... if I don't modify that Corbin PainMaster seat somehow, I will soon be a Eunich. Over the washboard roads up in the Adirondack Mountains, it felt like I was getting slammed in the 'Nads every 30 yards with a well-cured 2x4.

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:59:29 AM »

Have you lubed the speedo cable lately?

China Greg · « **Reply #6 on:** June 20, 2008, 01:17:31 AM »

Lube the speedo cable......?
No, I haven't yet!
Maybe saved me $238, Paul, (the cost of a new unit from my local dealer, including my Old Customer discount).
The bike in question had few miles when I bought it, but it WAS sitting in a garage for years, so there have been a few minor issues with corrosion.
I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

ridenclimb · « **Reply #7 on:** June 20, 2008, 06:44:03 PM »

I bought my 2001 Bandit 1200S in August 2003. It had about 6k miles on it when I purchased it.

Bike currently has 55k miles and other than replacing the starter switch last year it has not had anything other than routine maintenance.

Lost track of how many sets of tires I have been through (7-8?)
Chain/sprockets replaced at 18k and 38k (expect to replace again at 60k+)
Changed fork oil
Installed progressive springs (stock front springs are too soft)
Hayabusa rear shock (better than stock rear)
Valve adjustments every 8-10k miles
New fuel line after 4 years
Holeshot exhaust ands jet kit for some extra hp

Bike has been through over 30 different states in the US. Have also done half a dozen track days. The bandit's reputation as a good all around bike is well earned. The bike has plenty of grunt, gets about 40mpg, and will keep up with most bikes on the street.

The chances that you will ever ride this bike long enough to kill it are pretty low. Most people trade them in long before the end of their useful like. I am thinking of getting something else but also think it would be cool to hang onto it and break the 100k mile mark but that wouldn't be until 2012 at my current average of 10k miles/year. Most likely I will give in and get something else but might keep the bandit as a 2up bike.

aussie john · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2008, 09:47:04 PM »

So ridenclimb, i`ve basically got same miles and conversions you`ve got, but in prosess of fitting an 06busa shock, now the chamber at the top of the shock is hitting the air box, how`d you go with any probs, and how are you really finding it, can you fine tune it the way you want , to stop wollowing, and to make it track the road?

ridenclimb · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2008, 10:20:28 PM »

Hi Aussie John,

the 'Busa shock is about an inch longer than the stock. That means the rear of the bike is now an inch higher; I would be willing to bet that this has changed the rake and trail geometry of the front end a bit. Also, the centerstand no longer lifts the rear wheel clear of the ground.

http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php

aussie john
New user!

Posts: 3

Re: High-Mileage B12's out there?
« Reply #8 on: Today at 05:47:04 PM » Quote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So ridenclimb, i`ve basically got same miles and conversions you`ve got, but in prosess of fitting an 06busa shock, now the chamber at the top of the shock is hitting the air box, how`d you go with any probs, and how are you really finding it, can you fine tune it the way you want , to stop wollowing, and to make it track the road?

Logged

ridenclimb · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2008, 10:44:48 PM »

Hi Aussie John,

As you figured out the busa shock isn’t quite a drop in with no mods since the airbox tab interferes a little. In order to make it fit you will have to dremel off the left tab of the airbox. It’s plastic and can easily be shaved off with a dremel. The airbox still closes and it’s only the tab that you need to shave off.

The busa shock has more adjustability then the stock bandit shock. I recommend you do a little research and set up the preload, dampening and rebound for your rider weight before mounting it since it’s easier to do before the installation.

A couple points on the busa shock. It’s an inch longer than the stock shock thus it raises the back of the bike one inch. This makes turn in quicker but not dramatically so. It does offer a nicer ride than the stock shock and it is a cheap upgrade. There are better shocks out there but you are gonna spend a lot more. I bought mine off ebay for about $50.

You will also notice the rear wheel is not as high off the ground when the bike is on its centerstand. Some people say their rear tire is no longer off the ground when on the centerstand. I find that while there is reduced clearance I can still rotate the rear tire freely for lubing the chain etc.

If you log onto maiximum Suzuki you can do a search and see more discussion on this mod.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php

Hope this helps.

David

Red01 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2008, 03:21:08 PM »

Quote from: ridenclimb on June 21, 2008, 10:20:28 PM

Also, the centerstand no longer lifts the rear wheel clear of the ground.

My rear wheel still clears the ground on the C'stand with the 'Busa shock installed... but only if the ground is smooth. IE; it clears on the garage floor or a paved street, but not in my gravel driveway.

aussie john · « **Reply #12 on:** June 24, 2008, 05:20:58 AM »

Thanks for that ridenclimb, is put in and working, the fine tune thing will take a bit of time, your right though, is a bugger to adjust once in bike.

Fordtech · « **Reply #13 on:** June 29, 2008, 11:37:25 PM »

Hey,
99 B12 here, yosh slip on and jet kit, progressives up front, fork oil changed every year. HEL brake hoses, GSXR 750 shock, GSXR cams from holeshot etc etc etc. Now have near 90,000 kms on it and all mine since new. The bike has had NO issues, Ok the speedo at 7,000 kms replaced under warranty. Tough bike still original clutch, I only use Amsoil synth
in motor. Countless tires, pads....(SBS), now the 4th chain and sprockets (I think).
Hyperpro steering damper finally mounted after som fitment issues...gotta say this bike is a tough guy, sure there are faster and flashier out there......but for an all day riding partner, a bike that takes what I throw at it.......go baby go! Hard to beat!!!!

Big Bo · « **Reply #14 on:** July 02, 2008, 02:00:04 AM »

25,000 on my 02.