Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: China Greg on June 08, 2008, 02:23:44 AM
-
I'd be glad to hear reports from any of you guys who may have put a lot of miles on any air-cooled B12.
What kind of technical problems have you experienced?
What happens as these motors age?
I have a 1998 with 20, 000 miles and a 1997 with almosy 40K:
- Drive-train problems, such as sticky shifting (yes, still, unfortunately.. must be internal forks or shift-drum damage from previouys owner), and clutch shuddering and rattling. I've been working trying to correct the basket, but I'll probably have to replace it eventually.
- a sound like cam-chain rattle (ESPECIALLY when cold!) and another that sounds like maybe a bad bearing near the trans area (these on separate bikes).
- The tabs break off the rear plastic side panels.
-My bikes are both very sensitive to dirty air-filters (perhaps my jetting choice).
- Spectacularly long rear-brake-pad life
-
I just bought my 1999 with 28,850 miles on it. The previous owner had zero problems. The bike has had a holeshot exhaust and stage 2 kit since day one. It still has factory brake pads and chain.
A mechanic I found at the local dealer who will work on my bike on the side said that he has 130,000 miles on his with nothing but basic maintnence issues. He is currently looking for a mint B12 to replace his.
-
Uh, my '03 has nearly 44K on it, and I didn't think it was a "high mileage" vehicle!
I 've replaced chain and sprockets and brake pads, plus consumables (brake fluid, oil, whatnot), but no problems. Can;t lay any claims to unusually good mileage, brake pad life, etc. Dunno what cam adjusted noise sounds like, even though Dale Walker was quoted in Motorcyclist about it recently.
-
What do you consider high mileage? I wouldn't consider either of your bikes to be "high mileage" examples of a 10 year old B12.
Between this board & MS, I've read of many owners with >100,000 miles, a couple or three with >200,000 and one, that saw primary duty as a courier bike, with >300,000 miles.
My '01's mileage is slightly more than Sven's (~46K miles) and my mainteneace has been about the same - just consumables from normal wear & tear. I still have my OE rear pads, too.
My son's '97 is in this same mid 40's ballpark and his clutch is starting to slip (no shudders though). Seems most B12 clutches will last 50K miles or more, so this seems a hair early, but then again, we have no idea what the bike's life was really like during it's first 10 years & 40K, before he bought it. He did put new rear pads and replaced the rear rotor shortly after buying it... I'm guessing the previous owner(s) were fond of using the rear brake more often or at least with more pressure than the front because the front brakes were in real good shape, but the rears were SHOT.
Neither of our bikes have any shifting or cam chain problems.
-
I've just returned from a trip to Canada on my B12.. just clicked-over 20,000 miles. After spending six days straight on the bike, I'm clear that it has a slight clutch shudder off the line, and it still shifts like a bread-truck, (my Maestro Mechanico believes the shift-drum is flawed).
Both of my B12's seem to develop a noticeably hard buzz from the drive-chain/front sprocket after extended highway running, even when lubed.. and I don't think I adjust them too tightly.
Oh yeah, the speedometer now swings slowly back and forth over a 20-mph range at 75 miles per hour.
PS... if I don't modify that Corbin PainMaster seat somehow, I will soon be a Eunich. Over the washboard roads up in the Adirondack Mountains, it felt like I was getting slammed in the 'Nads every 30 yards with a well-cured 2x4.
-
Have you lubed the speedo cable lately?
-
Lube the speedo cable......?
No, I haven't yet!
Maybe saved me $238, Paul, (the cost of a new unit from my local dealer, including my Old Customer discount).
The bike in question had few miles when I bought it, but it WAS sitting in a garage for years, so there have been a few minor issues with corrosion.
I'll give it a shot. Thanks.
-
I bought my 2001 Bandit 1200S in August 2003. It had about 6k miles on it when I purchased it.
Bike currently has 55k miles and other than replacing the starter switch last year it has not had anything other than routine maintenance.
Lost track of how many sets of tires I have been through (7-8?)
Chain/sprockets replaced at 18k and 38k (expect to replace again at 60k+)
Changed fork oil
Installed progressive springs (stock front springs are too soft)
Hayabusa rear shock (better than stock rear)
Valve adjustments every 8-10k miles
New fuel line after 4 years
Holeshot exhaust ands jet kit for some extra hp
Bike has been through over 30 different states in the US. Have also done half a dozen track days. The bandit's reputation as a good all around bike is well earned. The bike has plenty of grunt, gets about 40mpg, and will keep up with most bikes on the street.
The chances that you will ever ride this bike long enough to kill it are pretty low. Most people trade them in long before the end of their useful like. I am thinking of getting something else but also think it would be cool to hang onto it and break the 100k mile mark but that wouldn't be until 2012 at my current average of 10k miles/year. Most likely I will give in and get something else but might keep the bandit as a 2up bike.
-
So ridenclimb, i`ve basically got same miles and conversions you`ve got, but in prosess of fitting an 06busa shock, now the chamber at the top of the shock is hitting the air box, how`d you go with any probs, and how are you really finding it, can you fine tune it the way you want , to stop wollowing, and to make it track the road?
-
Hi Aussie John,
the 'Busa shock is about an inch longer than the stock. That means the rear of the bike is now an inch higher; I would be willing to bet that this has changed the rake and trail geometry of the front end a bit. Also, the centerstand no longer lifts the rear wheel clear of the ground.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php
aussie john
New user!
Posts: 3
Re: High-Mileage B12's out there?
« Reply #8 on: Today at 05:47:04 PM » Quote
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So ridenclimb, i`ve basically got same miles and conversions you`ve got, but in prosess of fitting an 06busa shock, now the chamber at the top of the shock is hitting the air box, how`d you go with any probs, and how are you really finding it, can you fine tune it the way you want , to stop wollowing, and to make it track the road?
Logged
-
Hi Aussie John,
As you figured out the busa shock isn’t quite a drop in with no mods since the airbox tab interferes a little. In order to make it fit you will have to dremel off the left tab of the airbox. It’s plastic and can easily be shaved off with a dremel. The airbox still closes and it’s only the tab that you need to shave off.
The busa shock has more adjustability then the stock bandit shock. I recommend you do a little research and set up the preload, dampening and rebound for your rider weight before mounting it since it’s easier to do before the installation.
A couple points on the busa shock. It’s an inch longer than the stock shock thus it raises the back of the bike one inch. This makes turn in quicker but not dramatically so. It does offer a nicer ride than the stock shock and it is a cheap upgrade. There are better shocks out there but you are gonna spend a lot more. I bought mine off ebay for about $50.
You will also notice the rear wheel is not as high off the ground when the bike is on its centerstand. Some people say their rear tire is no longer off the ground when on the centerstand. I find that while there is reduced clearance I can still rotate the rear tire freely for lubing the chain etc.
If you log onto maiximum Suzuki you can do a search and see more discussion on this mod.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php
Hope this helps.
David
-
Also, the centerstand no longer lifts the rear wheel clear of the ground.
My rear wheel still clears the ground on the C'stand with the 'Busa shock installed... but only if the ground is smooth. IE; it clears on the garage floor or a paved street, but not in my gravel driveway.
-
Thanks for that ridenclimb, is put in and working, the fine tune thing will take a bit of time, your right though, is a bugger to adjust once in bike.
-
Hey,
99 B12 here, yosh slip on and jet kit, progressives up front, fork oil changed every year. HEL brake hoses, GSXR 750 shock, GSXR cams from holeshot etc etc etc. Now have near 90,000 kms on it and all mine since new. The bike has had NO issues, Ok the speedo at 7,000 kms replaced under warranty. Tough bike still original clutch, I only use Amsoil synth
in motor. Countless tires, pads....(SBS), now the 4th chain and sprockets (I think).
Hyperpro steering damper finally mounted after som fitment issues...gotta say this bike is a tough guy, sure there are faster and flashier out there......but for an all day riding partner, a bike that takes what I throw at it.......go baby go! Hard to beat!!!!
-
25,000 on my 02.
-
I've got '97 1200 with 61K on it. I bought it new. I replaced normal consumables, the steering head bearings at around 50K, the clutch at 55K and the ORIGINAL battery this year and that's it. I bought a Sprint st last year and the Bandit sat for that time :sad:. I just sold the Sprint because the wife likes the Bandit better and so do I :motorsmile:. The Triumph is great but I'm 48 and don't bend like I used to. Besides, the Bandit flat out rips. I'm upgrading the suspension soon as well as rejetting and replacing the exhaust, I think I'm going with Holeshot. I'm going to keep my Bandit till I can't ride anymore. I've ridden the Rocket III, 1600 Vulcan, a ZZR and several GSXRs and nothing compares with the all around capabilities of my Bandit. :clap: Thanks for lettin' me spout off.
-
Which Sprint did you have, a 1050?
-
Yup, a beautiful bike for sure.
-
42,000 on my '01 and still runs like new. Only routine maintenance so far.
-
37K on my 98. Original clutch w/ no problems.Just change the oem battery this last spring."Ol' reliable" About 6 years ago I let someone take it for a spin, They totaled it. So its been stripped down,picked up a 2000 frame off ebay,plastics I needed. Tank from another Bandito.Was painted by a buddy for some tile work. While it was in pcs., I put the GSX-R slingshot cams in,Holeshot high mount header,addvancer,stageII,&pods,rear sets,a GSX-R shock(wich was changed to a Works Perfotmance. I had already done the Race Tech up front wich wasn't damaged.Put in all new bearings while it was apart and polished the swingarm.Have different bones made,extra rims. Safety wired.Had it all done for a year befor I put 'er down in turn 4 @ a wet Nelson Ledges in practice befor a race. Done numerous track days,a 30 min race ( I can't beat the fast guys on the 1K race bikes,but I can beat the not as fast guys on1K race bikes) The bodywork has some scars,its been stiched w/ ss wire and plastic weld from the inside w/ backing. It takes a lickin' & keeps on tickin'. I've been to a Bandit rally with it. Wife & I took it to N.Carolina and road around this summer.I retired it from track days,the SV is for that.But it gets most of the comuting and running around. She's always ready & willing to go for a ride. :motorsmile:
-
Wow... this is all great fedback... and very reassuring, as my (second) 1st Gen B12 just clicked over 27,000 miles. (I recently sold my red '97 with 37,000 miles for $2100).
Chain problems... recurring "flat spots".. maybe from wheelies, despite the fact that I'm a "gentle wheelier". Anyone offer some feedback about chain adjustment techniques and chain/sprocket wear? I may be doing something wrong... like trying to re-use a "slightly" used front sprocket.. hmm.
Balky shifting... I've now replaced the shift forks, shift pawls, inner clutch basket, steel plates and fiber plates, springs (now Barnett heavy), and de-burred the leading edge of the clutch pushrod. It WAS shifting much better until I went back to the heavy Barnett springs (my bike was slipping a little on hard 4th-to-5th shifts). The heavier springs and grabbier (Barnett) plates resulted in sticky shifting again. The bike DEFINITELY needs to have a free-spinning clutch to shift smoothly. (I still think I have a slightly notchy shift-drum inside, but any issue there is compounded by not-fully-disengaged clutch). Not the BEST shifting bike I've ever owned, (nor was my red '97).
Progressive 420 rear shock is good, better than stock, (an same length.. I avoid changing the geometry after a 1991 GSXR 750 shock on my last B12 caused weird front end feel). But 420 shock is STIFF, especially for the first few thou miles. Still, I like it better than stock.
Front end: Gold Valve Fork Emulator kit works great. Stock springs are fine for me.. firm enough. The kit made the front end slightly stiffer, but MUCH better feel than stock.
The two suspension fixes really change the handling characteristics for the better, (especially with my flat "drag" bars"), but the ride is certainly firmer, for you Tourers out there.
Corbin Gunfighter seat is HARD as a rock, but looks great. After getting kicked in the nutz repeatedly over frost-heaves and pot-holes, I finally pulled the cover off the front, hack-sawed the "snout" off the front of the seat, and paid $25 to a Custom Harley shop to rivet the cover back on again. A GREAT fix, but the seat is still hard. At least my 'Nads are less obstructed.
Bridgestone BT-020's ..(021's?) are very good.. but when they wear the center section stays around like a square shelf.
Barend mirrors are the titz. Love 'em.
Wave rotors... stainless lines, really help the braking.
Yosh RS-3 end-can, with "holed" airbox, Ivan needles, stock jets, and fuel-screws turned to about 4 turns out runs crisp and strong across the range. (I'm 200 feet above sea-level).
I run the bike hard on the US Northeast highways; 3-4 days out on the big roads, running 75-110 mph all the time, the bike is awesome.
Shine ON, Midnight Bandit. Nothing else out there I'd want to buy at this point.
-
I'm a hair shy of 47000 miles on my '04 B12S. Runs great, but I just installed a Holeshot stage 1 jet kit, 5° timing advancer, and a 19-row Earl's cooler (twice the capacity of the OEM). I believe the gas mileage is now a bit better, and it runs about 10-15° cooler.
-
Runs great, but I just installed a Holeshot stage 1 jet kit, 5° timing advancer, ......... I believe the gas mileage is now a bit better, and it runs about 10-15° cooler.
+1.... and more power!!!
-
Barend mirrors are the titz. Love 'em.
+1 on the barends :beers:
-
32,000 km on my '07 in 10 months of riding :thumb:
-
I honestly can't believe the number of people here posting saying 20-40k is high milage.
So I feel compelled to say mine has ~30k, and will surely will last another 50k minimum. in fact the bike runs better now than when I bought it with 7k on the odo.
I live in PHX, and ride mine everyday, so my maintenance is done on the dot.
have replaced a couple gaskets, new chain and sprockets every 10k, oil changes between 3-5k, valve job every 7.5-10k, tires never lasted me very long but Pilot Road 4s have been good to me now, @75% tread with 5k on them. brakes don't last me very long either, stop and go is all to frequent. in fact my next investment is going to be rotors due to partial scoring.
other than a well needed jet kit for my exhaust, the only upgrades I've done were progressive fork springs and 07 busa shock, rides like a new bike after that.
These things run like swiss clocks, and if you don't abuse them and neglect them afterwards they are surely going to last a very long time.
-
Tru Dat............ :thumb:
-
It's truly less about the mileage and more about the maintenance.
Ryan's work truck turned more than 1.5 million kms (so around 1mil miles) and with regular maintenance it would have gone more before he sold it because we bought another one. We bought our current truck with 120K kms on the clock on a 2 year old truck. No problems in 7 years - other than a window motor switch and a heater motor which is pretty minor.
The thing to remember about bikes is that they see way less severe duty than the average cage so the miles aren't even hard miles. My B4 had somewhere over 50K kms ( 30K odd miles) when we sold her and she showed no signs of issues at all.
The bikes we have left are unfortunately very low miles at the moment. :annoy:
-
Barend mirrors are the titz. Love 'em.
+1 on the barends :beers:
---
make that + 2 on the bar ends, now I can see very clear without my shoulder in the way :clap:
-
Havent been here in a while but just had to say that my '02 B12 now has 106,000 miles. I'm the original owner with routine maintenance and Holeshot goodies.
-
OK! Whew! Long time since I last visited this post..
At this point my 1998 black B12 has at least 130,000 miles on it. Hard to tell exactly; I'm on my second speedo.
I went through a REPEATED motor-rebuild process in the past couple of years, trying to root-out naggy vibration issues, (turned out my JE pistons were worn after 90K on them!).
Great bike... +1 sprocket up front makes it feel like it has a Sixth gear...modified (flattened) Corbin to fit my ample beehind...JE 1216cc kit.. light headwork...Yosh RS-3 can.. Hyperpro shock, Progressive springs, Racetech kit... drag bars... Adaptiv TPX radar detector... NEP throttle lock... steel lines, wave rotors...
What's not to like? I just had it to the track in August...two years ago did 12,000 miles with it around the country in same config.
Now B12 has a baby brother: SV1000S, which fills-in for shorter, faster rides... ALSO modded with good suspension, etc.
A nice place to be
-
My 2005 has just clicked over the 50K mark.
-
50K... excellent. Happy Birthday, GSF!
How's it running at this point?
Issues?
Complaints?
Mods?
-
I'm a hair shy of 47000 miles on my '04 B12S. Runs great, but I just installed a Holeshot stage 1 jet kit, 5° timing advancer, and a 19-row Earl's cooler (twice the capacity of the OEM). I believe the gas mileage is now a bit better, and it runs about 10-15° cooler.
I sold this bike at~96000 miles and it was still running like a champ. The cam chain tensioner was at the end of its usefulness, but I replaced it with the APE manual unit and all was well. Sorta sorry I traded it, although the FJR is a great touring rig.