Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: Ar-Bandit on December 20, 2005, 12:00:33 PM
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I just bought my mods for the winter and I was wondering how much of an HP gain I can expect outta all these parts. I bought a D&D slip on, K&N air filter, Ignition advancer, 14 tooth front sprocket, and dyno jet kit.
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I just bought my mods for the winter and I was wondering how much of an HP gain I can expect outta all these parts. I bought a D&D slip on, K&N air filter, Ignition advancer, 14 tooth front sprocket, and dyno jet kit.
Pipe= 5-10hp
K&N= minus 3-4hp unless you spend a lot of time customizing the jet kit.
Ingnition Adv = 0-3hp
14 tooth = 0hp
Dynojet = 0-2hp but it won't run real well. It will run even worse if you try to use the K&N
Bandits typically don't work very well with DynoJet kits and they HATE K&N panel filters. You can go with the pod style filters, but then you need a totally different jetkit.
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I concur, from what I've heard the K&N filters can cause wonky jetting problems. WHat size jets do you have in the dyno jet kit? Maybe what you could do is build a McGuiver version of a Holeshot kit that works 100%. I'm assuming you have a 2G bandit 2001+.
I think in the Holeshot kit they give you 107.5, 110, 112.5 jets. Do you have these sizes in the dynojet kit? Supposedly the dynojet needles are the cause of the wonkiness from what I've researched. If I had those parts I would try and make a McGuiver version of a Holeshot by doing the following:
Install 110 size main jets, 2" airbox mod, shim the stock needles one .05mm shim, Either leave the pilots stock or go one size up(17.5) if the dyno jet kit has this. Leave the stock filter inside and sell the K&N. Install advancer. See how it runs.
Does the Dyno jet kit make you change the emulsion tubes? What exactly does the dyno jet come with? I wouldn't get disapointed any kit can be made to work.
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What about the snorkel removal?
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The K&N airbox filter is good for the 1G bikes, not very good for the 2G bikes. K&N pods work fine on either bike with a jet kit from Holeshot or Factory-Pro.
I don't have anything to say about the Dynojet's Bandit kits other than:
Good luck getting it to work right.
Snorkel removal is usually a given with any jet kit, and most will want you to add a hole or holes (depends on kit and which generation you have).
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I just got off the bike and it seems fine, really strong on the lower end and just screams on the top end. I probally road for about 2 hours....no probelms yet....but I'm gonna cross my fingers
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My G1 B12 with K&N and Dynokit, snorkel removed and (open)Laser Pro'dOr exhaust says:
(http://www.suzukibanditclub.nl/website/evenementen/2005_07_04_SuzukiDay_op_Spa_Francorchamps/22.Marios_Dyno_uitdraai.jpg)
So, thats about 20BHP gained. I have not installed an ignition advancer,.. I'm happy "as is". :grin:
Note: Graph is in DIN HP.
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The HP is nice but it looks like your air/fuel mix is all over the place. (Kinda hard to see on my laptop)
Ar-bandit
It will certainly run and probably feel stronger than before. But you may find some surging and/or flat spots.
If it runs well, great!
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It looks really lean on the bottom and rich in the middle. Maybe mixture screws out half a turn and a step down on the needle with shims as nessesary? There are some slight flat spots too but great top end horsepower. Maybe if you like you could trade a couple of up top ponies for less flat spots. Good dyno though. 5500 RPM where the mixture gets really rich is where you have a bit of a flat spot then it clears to the almost perfect 12 to 1 max power ratio later. I'd be willing to trade some ponies for less flat spots myself. Are you using an airbox mod?
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123 can you clarify a couple of things for an enthusiastic amateur...
mixture screws out 1/2 a turn...is that to richen it uo where it is running lean? down low.
and to step down on the needles with shims..is this to lean it out a bit mid range where it appears rich?
so to step down have we assumed or we know the needles have been lifted,or is that just automatic with the kits?
cheers slo coach
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Just get Dale's stage 2 jet kit!!! All you need in one EASY package.
www.holeshot.com
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I've got a 2G with a Hindle slip-on and Dynojet kit, stock air box & filter. I used the 98 mains and ended up with the stock needles shimmed .040. It runs great!
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123 can you clarify a couple of things for an enthusiastic amateur...
mixture screws out 1/2 a turn...is that to richen it uo where it is running lean? down low.
and to step down on the needles with shims..is this to lean it out a bit mid range where it appears rich?
so to step down have we assumed or we know the needles have been lifted,or is that just automatic with the kits?
cheers slo coach
You are correct fatteneing up the mixture screws slighly will help the lean bit down low in the rpm scale. However this may make the midrange even more rich than it is. Stepping down the needle one notch may be a little much, so adding a shim with the stepped down needle may be worth a try. What the hell, it's free. If you want to give it a try and pay for another dyno it would at least be interesting. You could then adjust as nessesary. If it doesn't work out and this is the best you can get don't worry about it there is plenty of power there.
As far as the lean bit down low adjust the mixture screws in little 1/8th inch steps and see if you get a little more juice down low.
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Guys, guys,...
As stated, I am happy with the performance!
On the low end (< 5000 rpm) a lean mixture with "a lot of miles to the gallon" and "environmently friendly". :motorsmile: Combined with the flat torque curve very nice for touring and city use. (80% of the use)
On the high end ( > 8000 RPM) enough power (and sound...) to surprise the average GSX-R rider. :roll: Nice for trackdays or "higway sprints".
And in between (6000-75000 rpm) a rich mixture to give some nice typical "bangs" when I close the throttle. :bigok:
So all i need now is a shiftlight to tell me that I need to shift up at about 10000 RPM and not wait for the limiter to kick in..... :stickpoke: