Author Topic: problem (?) adjusting valves.. (Read 3788 times)

ribbitism · « **on:** August 30, 2005, 04:41:55 PM »

Hello! Don't flame me, I'm new here but not 100% mechanically inept :P
My problem arises when it comes to adjusting the valves..
I have both a haynes and suzuki dealer PDF, and understand how to adjust the valves etc.. but what's confusing me is the order of cylinders, which would indicate which valves to adjust when.
From what I can work out from the diagrams in the manuals, when sat on the bike and looking down at the engine, the cylinder order from left to right i think is 1234 or when looking at the engine from the front of the bike, the diagrams would lead me to believe the order is left to right 4231.. as simple as it may sound, because the pictures are crap I am not 100% sure which is the one to use, so I can't go ahead and adjust the valves >:|

Also something that's niggling at me.. do I adjust the cam shaft position when I want to adjust each cylinders valves so that the cam lobes are either in the up position or front & back facing? as the manuals indicate they should be in these positions, but I'm unsure if I should make them be in these positions each time per cylinder or just once while I adjust cyl. 1 intake & exhaust, cyl. 2 exhaust and cyl. 3 intake valves, then adjust position... etc.

If someone could take the time out from laughing at this to tell me which way I'm supposed to start, I would be most grateful!

Cheers. :)
-Dave

Bob Holland · « **Reply #1 on:** August 30, 2005, 05:31:19 PM »

I always turn the cam lobe stright up and adjust those two. I do all the intakes first, and then the exhaust. If you start with # 1, you will do cylinder 1, 2, 4, and 3.

Red01 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 30, 2005, 07:48:42 PM »

#1 is on the left as you sit on the bike and they go in normal order to #4 on the right. If you still have the stock spark plug wires, they should have the numbers on them, making it all the more clear as to which one is which.

ribbitism · « **Reply #3 on:** August 30, 2005, 08:54:06 PM »

Eeeeexcellent. So left to right, 1 2 3 4.

I do have the stock plug leads, but strangely enough I had to number them myself when removing as the only one that had a number on it was #3 heh. I didn't think about them indicating the cylinder number though. DOH.

I'll attack it the way the manuals say first with putting the camshafts in 1 position and doing cyl 1 intake and exhaust valves, cyl 2 exhaust and cyl 3 intake valves then rotating crankshaft to position camshafts again and do cyl 2 intake, cyl 3 exhaust, cyl 4 intake & exhaust valves.. if that doesn't work I'll try your method BHolland, with making the cam lobes point up on each valve for adjusting :)

Will post tomorrow and say if this 2nd attempt has worked or if it's a ticking frenzy far worse than before

Thanks again both of you :)

ribbitism · « **Reply #4 on:** August 31, 2005, 12:50:45 PM »

If anyone's curions, the 2nd attempt worked, but it also didn't.

The valves I originally wanted to 'fix' are fine now, and some that needed adjusting but weren't ticking, still don't tick thankfully, but after allowing it to warm up and being revved a bit for a few minutes the intake valves on cylinder 3 (I think) are now ticking

I assume I adjusted them too close to the 0.006 end of the margin even though I double checked I was happy with all 16's measurements, and I guess the heat has caused expansion and now we have ticking. Still, now I know where to start with the cylinders, adjusting them isn't a problem. I'll just have to do it when I've got another 3 or 4 hours spare.

Cheers again.

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 31, 2005, 08:44:13 PM »

Be sure to do your adjusting when the motor is STONE COLD.
Best to do it after the motor has sat overnight - or at least several hours - since last run.

RUSS M8 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 01, 2005, 06:57:02 AM »

Yes, Red01 is right when he says the engine should be cold.
But also remember that a valve tick is usually caused by too much clearance, not a bad sign - it means you have clearance. It's when you have no clearance and a "riding valve" that you have a real problem!

The old air/oil cooled engine can make a bit of a tick and still be perfectly healthy. I think if you have one of these things and are really scared about a little bit of a tick - you need something liquid cooled and newer!

ribbitism · « **Reply #7 on:** September 01, 2005, 08:49:42 AM »

Aye Paul, Waiting for the motor to be as cold as it can be without working on it in the middle of the night, is why I've had 2 attempts in 2 days. I would have readjusted if it wasn't for that fact >:|
Leaving it also allows a good ammount of the oil to sink out of the way which is helpful

RUSS M8, you also confirmed what I believe.. it has clearance which is good, just slightly too much as I must have gone too close to the 0.006 gap as I thought, and the tapping doesnt come immediately, just when it's warming, 30 seconds or more after running.
I wouldn't say I'm scared of the tapping, I know the engine fine but my view is if it was meant to tap, all the valves would do it

Thing with me is I am used to hearing the engine be as smooth as possible and so the tapping even though barely audible when stopped in traffic with a full face helmet on, annoys me.. Being a perfectionist, I'm not willing to accept it's 'close enough', I want rid of the tapping regardless of how minor.. without having as you say a 'riding valve'.

Also as a last point, it was a good thing for me to get in there and check them all as I do believe some of the valves were very close to 'riding' as they had literally < 0.003 or no clearance when I measured them. 10 out of 16 required adjusting to be at the recommended clearances and the bike does feel a slightly 'smoother' ride for it.
My clocks now have 5500 miles on, the bike had a service at 800 and 3000 (no valves checked - said on receipt), and this is the point where I bought the bike (3100 miles). I was in doubt as to wether they were adjusted at 800 due to the fact I've read a lot of mechanics believe maybe 1 out of 20ish bikes actually require it and it can be left til the next service.. which mine clearly didn't get. When it comes down to money, people don't want to pay for a valve job if they don't have to and I would say the guy I got the bike from wouldn't have done it himself, so it's good that I got in there.

Cheers guys!