Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: Sandman9270 on February 23, 2007, 02:31:46 PM
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Ok here goes:
1) Where is the link for the site that had the valve adjustment in step-by-step pictures?
2) Should I get the tappet adjustment tool motion pro makes or can I do it without ANY special tools?
3) If the answer to "2" is "yes" then where is the cheapest place? Ronayaers is the cheapest I could find.
4) Should I also buy the motion pro gap wrenches (or whatever you call them)? If so where is the ceapest place for them?
5) Should I buy new gaskets? If so which ones? Where?
6) Where can I get this "RTV" goop? What is it? What's it called (brand name?)
Whew! THat's all for now.....
Wait...on more thing.....on a BMW site I saw it said that you need TWO gap wrenches because when you meausure the gap on one side (intake or exhaust) it is not an accurate reading unless you have a gap wrench in the other "side". So I basically have to measure the intake side with a gap wrench in the exhaust side....anyone else hear this?
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I noticed on the holeshot site, they have a "valve adjustment tool" for only eight bucks....I guess you hold the nut with a box wrench and use THAT thing...lot cheaper than $35-40 for the "tappet adjustment set." Does that menthod work just as well?
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If you go to the hardware store and get a #2 square drive screwdriver or thread a #2 square drive decking screw)using the screw upside down) into a orange wire nut (as the grip) and 'voila'.
A standard set off feeler gauges will work. All you need to use to adjust the valve is a ?8mm? box wrench and the above mentioned tool.
I would STRONGLY suggest you get a manual if you don't have one.
If you buy a valve cover gasket you won't need it. You can reuse it many times but Murphy's law says if you don't have a spare, the bitch will leak. Trust me.
You can also reuse the spark plug tower gaskets, make sure they don't move when reinstalling the vc. Other wise it will leak from the front of the motor.
If this sounds foreign to you then I stress to you to get a manual.
I like the Suzuki factory manual best.
Blade's site is no longer hosting the instructions or pics.
Good luck.
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Thanks. I'll go to home depot to try to find the screw driver your are talking about. How about this RTV sealant? Do I put it on the top of the gasket and then put on the cover, or on the bottom of the gasket? Or both sides?
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If you have never done this procedure before on any vehicle and your not going to be supervised the first time, there is a high probability you will damage the engine by making a mistake. However if your otherwise very good at repairing other things naturally, you should have no problem if your using a good manual such as Clymer. The only other advice I can give since this procedure can no way be guided by postings, is before you bolt the head cover back on make sure you checked your valve clearances at least 3 times each time turning the engine 360 degrees to make sure your adjustments are correct and keep. Use the RTV sealer very sparingly on both sides of the gasket. applied too thick and clumps will come off the gasket and find there way to the journals and oil passages blocking the flow of oil.
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When removing the valve cover there are two metal dowel pins located at opposite corners. DO NOT LET THESE FALL INTO THE MOTOR!!!! They may stay in the head or come off with the cover but be aware that they can fall right out just as you're removing the cover.
Also, it really helps to have a second set of hands to avoid knocking the spark plug tower gaskets off when passing over the cam chain.
Take your time - clean every gasket surface throughly before re-assembly and you shouldn't have any problems.
BTW - the paper gasket on the signal generator cover will likely tear so get that too. A dab of RTV is required in two areas per the manual.
Good Luck
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Forgot to add..... use a torque wrench for the valve cover fasteners. It's way to easy to "snug" them up and crack something - that will ruin your day.
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The official Suzuki Tappet tool is only $6 from a dealer - Part Number 09917-14920, to make it a one hand operation just cut down an 8mm box spanner and stick a bar on the side.
(http://hometown.aol.co.uk/Mickcbr1100/tools/Tappet1.JPG)
(http://hometown.aol.co.uk/Mickcbr1100/tools/Tappet2.JPG)
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Give me PM and Ill talk you through it. Its lots of fun the first time.
Simple stuff really, I really like the instruction that the manual gives ya ... NOT.
PIN
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Thanks for all the feedback. So I should definitely buy a new signal generator gasket? How about the rubber gasket on the cover?
I have a Clymer manual and they make NO metion of ANY special tools. If I have the $6 tool, can't I just hold the nut with a regular open wrench and tighten the screw with the tool? That homemade thing is pretty clever, but I don't have any way of fashioning something like that at home.
BTW, according to the manual, You just have to take the seat and tank off to get the engine cover off. From what I've read here that doesn't seem exactly right. What else do you UNOFFICIALLY have to remove to get that cover off?
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How about this RTV sealant? Do I put it on the top of the gasket and then put on the cover, or on the bottom of the gasket? Or both sides?
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. A common brand name is Permatex. You put it in the corners of the gasket's cam plugs. A little dab on the plug tower gaskets will help keep them in place when you put the valve cover back on.
If you go to the hardware store and get a #2 square drive screwdriver or thread a #2 square drive decking screw)using the screw upside down) into a orange wire nut (as the grip) and 'voila'.
You don't want a #2 square drive screwdriver! That would be male. You need the female. So you use the #2 square drive headed screw. Screw it into a wood dowel or an old piece of screwdriver handle or other suitable thing to give you a little handle. Or just pony up the $5-7 to buy the tool from your local Suzi dealer.
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I think I'd rather pay the $6, great idea though! I figure even if I sell the bike I can resell it on here or on ebay. I just wasn't too keen on paying $45 for THEIR tappet tools, esp since you have to buy all three and I only need one!
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Obviously I haven't done this before; but I HAVE rebuilt/jetted a set of carbs before, replaced brake pads/lines/rotors. Along with really basics maintenance (tires, oil/filter). Seems like I SHOULD be able to do this. I guess I sounds a little clueless with the flurry of questions but I'd rather ask them now than when I'm elbow deep in this mess! I'm going take pics of the disassmebly so I can remember whats where. Then I'll try to post them on here when I'm done.
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Ok...about the parts....
I looked on parts fish. Sounds like you guys think I'llprobably need the signal generator gasket so I'm going to have to get that. (part SU11491-27A30 right?). Then it LOOKS like the top gasket is called the CYLINDER GASKET part SU11173-27A02...it's $22.58? Is that the right one? Or they have one called the HEAD COVER GASKET but I don't think I'm gonna need those, right? Anyway if any of you guys know which gaskets you ended up having to replace, let me know........
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If you go to the hardware store and get a #2 square drive screwdriver
You don't want a #2 square drive screwdriver! That would be male. You need the female. So you use the #2 square drive headed screw.
This is why we keep you around Red. :duh:
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The official Suzuki Tappet tool is only $6 from a dealer - Part Number 09917-14920, to make it a one hand operation just cut down an 8mm box spanner and stick a bar on the side.
(http://hometown.aol.co.uk/Mickcbr1100/tools/Tappet1.JPG)
(http://hometown.aol.co.uk/Mickcbr1100/tools/Tappet2.JPG)
Thats pretty freakin ingenious
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I found two tappet adj on the partsfish site
.....-14920 and .....-14910 which is for the 2001 Bandit600s? Are they the same part?
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Should be the same part, I bought 14920 for my Gen2 12 and have also used it on a Gen1 600 as well