new problem

[stormi]

Rescued from the other board:

bnrboy775 Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:59 am    
the fuel line you guys are talking about is that the big long hose that is connected to the tank?? also what is the proper routing for the vent hoses... i know the one between the 1st and 2nd carb goes to the left of the air box and the one between the 3rd and 4th cabrs goes to the right of the airbox... are those really vent hoses or do they attach to something... and where does that hose and run off the bottom of the tank route to??    

bnrboy775 Posted

BHolland wrote:

bnrboy775 wrote:
let it sit in the driveway idleing. after about 15 to 20 mins

Just so you will know, unless you have a big box fan blowing on your engine, that is to long to idle a air/oil cooled engine. The engine will over heat in that length of time. beers

it was very cool that day.. maybe 50 degrees.. so it didin't overheat and it may have been that long... one question i have is why did it work perfectly obefore work and then dies on on the way home... why is that?

   

Bezzer Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:46 pm    

read my post above...your fuel vent was acting as a breather because the normal breather is blocked/kinked, you filled up and the vent was blocked with fuel so it couldn't breathe and engine cuts out after a short while because the vacuum can't draw any more fuel out. If it does it again just undo the cap you should hear the air being sucked in and it will run OK again.

[bnrboy775]

i really hope im doing the right thing by buying a new petcock... i just want my bike to run... and again what should i do about the rust... or sediment... i'm not sure which one it is...

[Red01]

and again what should i do about the rust... or sediment... i'm not sure which one it is...

Read this link.

[bnrboy775]

okay i got the tank cleaned out... put on a new petcock. start the bike up... take her up the road maybe a 1/4 mile.. she starts sputtering on me at lower rpm's (under 2000)... so i turned around and head back home,  when i parked in the driveway, there is a strong smell of gas coming out of the exhaust.. like its running way too rich... what do i need to do to fix this, i just installed dale's jet kit, with 100's in a four carbs, and 2 shims on each needle.. and adjusted the A/F screws to two and a half turns out just like the instructions. any suggestions on what i should do? thanks in advance

[okbandit]

Call Dale.........In the mean time I would double check all of your work, especially the float level.  There is a very specific way to set them with the carbs on their side and held vertically.  Blade has a very good run through on his site for a Stage 2 kit install, but the float section is the same for every kit as far as technique.  By the way, I use a rabbit cage water bottle with a hole poked in it for my sync fuel tank.  Workd great

[bnrboy775]

the instructions i got with my jet kit never said anything about adjusting the float level... so that could be the problem... can you do that with the carbs on the bike or will i have to take it all back apart??

[okbandit]

Unfortunately you have to take them off.  If you did not change the float height it is probably close to the 13mm it is set at stock.  I would talk to Dale before I took it off again.  I know you probably don't want to wait, I wouldn't.  If you go to Dale's site @ holeshot.com and go to the bandit section-scroll down a bit and you will see a link to Bill's page and look at the mod section for his bandit.  He does a great job with teaching you what to do.  I will post a link for you tomorrow if you don't find it.  Generally rich is caused by float too high-jets to large-clips too low(needle too high)- idle screws too far out-filter too dirty or intake restricted-exhaust flow restricted.  There are other causes I am sure but you can see from just the short list how complex this can get.

[Red01]

Here's the direct link to Bill's Bandit tech pages:

http://www.billsbikesnservice.com/techwork.htm

[bnrboy775]

okay.. so after looking aroung on this site... i see some people only used one shim on their needles... do you think i should try using one instead of two to see what that does.. or will i still need to adjust the float levels... if so what do i need to change them to?

[okbandit]

Hope this helps.  Stock float level is 13mm.  Idle screws control the idle and just off throttle ratio(up to around 1700rpm).  Needle height controls off idle(1500rpm) to about 6krmp.  6k up is on the mains.  Important thing to note is that you set this from the top down.  Get the correct main, then set your needle height, then tune for what seems an eternity on the idle screws.  It helps to know that these are not idividual circuits, but rather one effects the next from the top down.  IE mains too rich, so is everything else.  Before you get into all this mess, I would verify everything is kosher.  Check everything you can from the filter to the exhaust tip just in case it is a simple vacuum leak or errant hose.  There is another link to a tuning guide for you on Fast Larry's FAQ.  Hopefully someone can post that link quicker than I can find it.  On a side note, carb sync can do some funky things.  If you do not know that they are in, they are not.  If they are not very close you will be chasing your tail on this one.

[smooth operator]

Dale recomends 14.7 for the float hieghts.
  When carb tunning, its good to do 1 thing at a time and take notes each time so you know what did what.
  Float hieghts 1st
 mains 2nd, take it for a good spin and read the plugs.
 Piolots next, I run bigger than whats recomened.Seems with my setup it runs like crap at low speeds with the 32.5sor35s with a stage 2 and full exhaust.I believe mine are 40s(wich would explain my shitty mileage) but its where my bike runs good through trial and error. (doesn't mean I have it just right)
  Then I adjusted Dales needles(I'm 1.5 from full lean) again through trial and error,taking notes each time. (small movments to the needles make a difference on gas mileage)
 I'm at the stage where I don't want to change anything untill I can get it on a dyno.  Dan

[bnrboy775]

okay so honestly most of the things that you guys are saying kinda scares me... not that i mind doing the work but it seems to me like i'm really getting in over my head.. do you think that i would be better off just taking it to a shop? i really don't want to  but right now that seems like the best thing to do.. i just want the bike to run right...

[Red01]

To set the B12 float height issue straight:

14.7mm = 2000 model and older (1G) float height.

13mm = 2001-2006 model (2 & 3G) float height.[/list]

These are the stock levels.
AFAIK, all jet kit outfits recommend you leave them at the stock setting. Adjust them, if they're out of spec though.

[bnrboy775]

i don't have a b12 tho... mine is a 99 B600

[okbandit]

Most of the #'s are meaningless then.  But the basics of the carb adjust remain the same.  Hopefully this will get some response from a b6 owner now.  I only have b12's.