Author Topic: Overheating 1200 (Read 12838 times)

PaulVS · « **Reply #16 on:** May 01, 2007, 12:35:36 PM »

Try Mobil-1 15w50 oil.

longislandbandit99 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 01, 2007, 11:28:27 PM »

I don't think the oil is the problem. I've sat at idle in much hotter temps with the same type of oil and never had the overheat issue like this. The air temp Sunday wasn't even in the 70's. The weekend prior I rode it all over Long Island in traffic just to see how it would respond to stop and go. I had no issues. I was playing with the stupid throttle screw all day. I couldn't get the bike to idle where I wanted it to, either it was a little high or a little low. I still have yet to get an answer to my question of what happens when the screw is turned counterclockwise versus clockwise. Which way does the throttle plate move with each turn? I'm guessing that counterclockwise opens the plates to lean out the mixture with more air.

Whatever the situation, I know two things. First that throttle screw is not working properly. Its way too tight and I have to practically twist it off the bike to get the tach to budge even slightly. Second those carbs have to be re-jetted and cleaned out. I'm seeing a stage 1 kit from Holeshot in my future.

pmackie · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2007, 02:49:38 AM »

Quote

Which way does the throttle plate move with each turn?

The idle adjustment screw simply connects to the throttle mechanism. By turning it clockwise, you are simply opening the throttle slightly (the same as turning the twist grip slightly). So to complete the picture, you are opening the throttle plates, which causes the vaccum operated pistons to open slightly, letting in more air, which sucks in more fuel through the jets.

Turning the adjustment counter-clockwise is the reverse.

PaulVS · « **Reply #19 on:** May 02, 2007, 08:34:21 AM »

Yeah... it does sound like more than oil. (Although my B12 runs noticeably cooler with Mobil 1 than it did with dino M/C oil)

A hot engine can be a sign of an overly lean condition, therefore a jetting or fuel delivery problem.

As previously suggested... have you pulled the spark plugs to check out yet? Also a carb sync does sound in order.

longislandbandit99 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 02, 2007, 06:48:26 PM »

Being that my summer project of get the boat motor fixed and put that in the water is indefinitely shelved (motor has crap compression on two of six cylinders) I'm going to be pulling the carbs soon. First I need to convince Fear (a.k.a. the girlfriend) that I need to buy the carb kits from Dale. I'm pretty set on a stage 1 mod kit. I think I like the idea of a smoother running engine that is a bit better in the performance department versus sending money back to Suzuki for stock replacement needles and such.

Here's a question to put out there, when winterizing with Dale's kits, what procedures should be followed? I'm beginning to think that it makes sense to run the bike dry and let the carbs sit like that all winter instead of using Stabil and leaving gas in the carbs. I know that stabilizers are supposed to really help keep gas from going stale, especially with the new problems ethanol is creating, but I think I like the idea of dry float chambers. My idea is to run stabilized gas through the carbs then run them dry knowing that any small amounts of gas left will have stabilizer in it anyway.

pmackie · « **Reply #21 on:** May 02, 2007, 07:17:20 PM »

I does make a difference how cold the storage is. If it's well below freezing the stabilized gas will be OK for 4-5 months. Also OK to drain the carbs. HIgher temperatures will cause the fuel to react quicker, and then I would likely drain the carbs for sure, but make sure you stabilize the fuel in the tank, or throw it out before you use the bike in the spring.

The worst thing is to leave the unit sit for a year or more. Then you need to take some special precautions.