Author Topic: Remounting rear wheel.....questions...... (Read 3100 times)

Sandman9270 · « **on:** January 25, 2007, 09:17:01 AM »

I own a 2001 Bandit 600. I took the rear wheel off to put a new tire on and had it off for a while. Now I have reassembly questions:

1) Does the axle go in from the right or the left? Manual say from the left for 1999 and before, but from the right for 2000. I'm pretty sure it went in from the right on mine but IU want to be sure.

2) spacers.....I took off two spacers. I believe the one that is a perfect cylinder went on the left and theone that looks like a "top hat" went on the right side, but again I just want to be sure.

3) chain slack adjusters. ok this is hard to describe. Chain/sprockets have only 6k miles on them. On the left side I am reading 3 lines on the little adjuster marks but almost 4 on the right. If I tighten on the left side to make THOSE marks four the chain is WAY too tight. However, in order to loosen the right adjuster to make it 3 marks (even with the left) the "back plate" (plate that the adjuster hex bolt touches goes in to) is SO loose I can actuallly turn it around...basically the bolt seems to be in danger of falling out. So should I just leave the adjusters at mismatched marks? I know those adjusting marks aren't all that accurate and I THINK the chain doesn't seem to be pulling to one side or the other on the sprocket but I just want to be sure....

Sandman9270 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 25, 2007, 09:37:09 AM »

One more thing......

I noticed before I took the wheel off, the wheel turned a little over one revolution when I "spun" it by hand on the center stand. Now it seems to make it not quite around on time. ANy reason you can think of that the wheel wouldn't be a free on the axle? I tightened it axle to 74 ft/lbs of torque as mentioned in the book.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #2 on:** January 25, 2007, 10:17:04 AM »

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) Does the axle go in from the right or the left?

Right side is correct.

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2) spacers.....I took off two spacers. I believe the one that is a perfect cylinder went on the left and theone that looks like a "top hat" went on the right side, but again I just want to be sure.

Once again... correct

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3) chain slack adjusters. ok this is hard to describe. Chain/sprockets have only 6k miles on them. On the left side I am reading 3 lines on the little adjuster marks but almost 4 on the right.

This is a real problem on the B6... mine were mismatched also. The adjustement "marker plate" has lots of slop in it so your description sounds normal to me. Just be sure that the sprocket is in-line with the chain and counter-sprocket. You can make a simple device that clamps on the rear sprocket and has an arrow shaft running up the chain - that will tell you if the sprocket is tracking properly. Also, don't overtighten the chain when on the centerstand.

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ANy reason you can think of that the wheel wouldn't be a free on the axle?

You likely pumped up the rear brake to seat the pads and they are creating a little extra drag. That will go away when you ride it and use the rear brake a bit.

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I tightened it axle to 74 ft/lbs of torque as mentioned in the book.

Check that again... I think it's supposed to be 72 and I do mine about 70.

Sandman9270 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 25, 2007, 10:57:50 AM »

Thanks, man. I feel a lot better about life. I'll check the torque specs, then ride more and worry less!

pmackie · « **Reply #4 on:** January 25, 2007, 11:57:16 AM »

txbanditrydr basically had all of your answers

A couple of things on your chain adjustment.
1. Firstly, (likey goes without saying) remember you have to loosen the axle to adjust the chain.
2. It is common for the brake side adjuster to feel loose when you back it off. You normally have to tap the axle forward to tighten it up. (Or give the rear tire a good "boot" from the back)
3. One way to verify that the wheel is straight is to measure from the centre of the swingarm bolt to the centre of the axle.
4. Make sure you measure the chain tension on the "tightest spot" and still have sufficient free play. A chain with 6000 miles on it will likely have at least some wear. As you rotate the wheel when the bike is on the centre stand, you will feel tighter and looser areas on the chain.
5. Remeber to clean, lube and ensure everything is tight.

Sandman9270 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 25, 2007, 02:09:27 PM »

When you say "swing arm bolt", do you mean the chain tension adjuster? What is the swing arm bolt! Thanks for the input.

pmackie · « **Reply #6 on:** January 25, 2007, 03:07:11 PM »

Hey Sandman...

The "swingarm" is the part of the rear frame of the motorcycle that forms the basic moving part of the rear suspension. It is a "U" shaped part that bolts to the frame just behind the engine and the rear wheel bolts through the open end of the "U". When you removed your rear wheel, you actually removed it from the "swingarm".

The swingarm pivot bolt is covered with a chrome plastic cover (on the 2G models) on each side. If you remove these covers, you can measure from the center of the pivot bolt to the centre of the rear axle. This will ensue that the rear wheel is "straight" in the swingarm, and is far more accurate than the marks on the chain adjusters. You might need a 2nd set of hands to hold one end of the tape measure.

Sandman9270 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 25, 2007, 03:12:41 PM »

Thanks again for the info. The pivot bolt I am familiar with. I'll give that method a try. I guess when you say axle, though you mean where the middle of the axle "should be". Since the wheel will be on.

BTW....did you put the Progressive srpings in yourself? I was thinking of either doing it myself, or just taking the forks out and have them put in professionally; is it hard to do?

Ranger · « **Reply #8 on:** January 27, 2007, 01:50:42 PM »

pmackie · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2007, 03:13:45 PM »

Sandman...the idea of measuring from the pivot bolt is to measure from the centre of the pivot to the centre of the axle bolt ON EACH SIDE. Ie: the distance from the pivot to the axle should be the same on both sides of the swingarm, the chain side and the brake side.

Once the distance is the same on both side, the wheel is properly lined up in the swingarm. At this point the chain is correctly lined up as well.