Author Topic: Stalling (Read 5531 times)

junior627 · « **on:** July 07, 2005, 10:55:28 AM »

I will start by apologizing if this is a repeated topic but I am new here.
My 2000 B6 will not run if I move the choke past half way off. Could this be due to dirty air filter or gummed up carbs? I have already cahnged the plugs to no avail. Also on a side note if i am going to have to open the carbs to clean them is it worth Re Jetting with the Holeshot kit or just shim needles? Thanks for your patience...

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 07, 2005, 08:29:50 PM »

Dirty air filter will choke it more, so that shouldn't be your problem.

If the bike has sat, there's good chance the carbs need cleaning.
A jet kit will help a B6 quite a bit, so this would be a good time to install one.

junior627 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 15, 2005, 08:55:28 AM »

well I ran some Gumout in the fuel and now she will idle with the choke off, but the throttle response is horrible and and sometimes cuts out...

ray nielsen · « **Reply #3 on:** July 15, 2005, 12:11:30 PM »

I posted this "cure" before, but it seems appropriate again.

First disconnect the fuel line at the petcock, then drain the float bowls by loosening the drain screws a turn or two and let all the gas drain.

Tighten the drain screws, and pour Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner, available at most auto parts stores, until the carbs are full. Let it sit overnight and drain the float bowls again. Reconnect the fuel line and use the PRIME position to refill the carbs with gas.

You should find that the crud in the idle jets has been dissolved and the bike should run better.

I've used this trick on many of my own and friend's bikes with very good results. Yamaha sells a carb cleaner that has similar directions on the label, but it costs over $10 vs. about $6 for the Techron. I figured that if put in without gas as Yamaha suggests it would work more quickly. That seems to be the case and NO damage has yet occured to carb parts.

junior627 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2005, 01:14:37 PM »

What if anything do I have to remove from the bike to be able to access these drain screws? Sorry for the Newbie Questions...

Grissom · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2005, 01:30:52 PM »

My 01 1200 was running crappy after sitting for months. So I drained the carbs and changed the plugs. You should not have to remove anything to drain the carb, however you will need a piece of hose to direct the draining fuel into a container otherwise it leaks onto the engine and ground. I also removed most of the fuel in the tank and put in fresh stuff. The bike ran fine after. If I can do it you can also!

tacoman · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2005, 02:54:22 PM »

The drain screws require an allen wrench. Can't remember which size off hand. Buy a metric set as these bikes have lots of allen bolts. They can be reached without removing anything. Keep a small container handy as a fair amount of gas does drain out.

junior627 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2005, 08:07:22 AM »

Well I tried to drain the carbs this weekend and found that the good old dealer that i bought the bike from had stripped the drain screw on the left most carb...Any tricks on how to get it out and replace it? Also where could i order a new one?

Grissom · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2005, 08:51:51 PM »

I just took a look at my bike and i think that most likely it is not the screw that is stripped but the bowl itself. Since the bowl appears to be made out of aluminum and the screw is steel. It looks like the bowl will come off without to much effort, but I have never done it so perhaps someone else will chime in. A couple of ways to fix it 1) buy a new part if you can - www.ronayers.com or 2) Install a helicoil - You could do this repair youself if you are carefull or have a machine shop do it. However you will need to know the proper size of the screw in order to get the right repair kit.

junior627 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2005, 07:55:10 AM »

no it is the allen key head that has been rounded off...It looks like somebody used a standard size instead of the correct metric size

Grissom · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2005, 12:44:40 PM »

Since it is the hex portion of the allen head screw that has been deformed you can try using a torx bit ( read this on a forum somewhere) or get a pair of needle nose vise grip pliers and grab the outside. I believe you said that it was one of the outer carbs so you should be able to get to it fairly easily.

junior627 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2005, 12:57:20 PM »

yeah i will try the Torx idea since the head is flush with the carb i cant sqeezze it with vise grips...Almost $9.00 for a erplacement screw @bike bandit...jeeze

Red01 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2005, 11:06:58 PM »

Is there anything special about the drain screw? Just from looking at the exploded view on the parts catalog, it doesn't look like it, but they're not known for exacting details. If it's just a plain allen cap screw, you should be able to find one at a hardware or auto parts store.

FWIW - Ron Ayers lists that screw at only $2.20
(Should be under $1 at Home Depot or NAPA, etc)

junior627 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 20, 2005, 08:52:15 AM »

Checked RonAyers and it is part 35 not 34 that explains the price difference. It does look like it has a special tip at the end of the screw

junior627 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 01, 2005, 08:10:22 AM »

Well I seem to have fixed the choke problem I was having but now the bike seems to have no Top End power. When I hit 60 mph it doesnt want to go any faster...What should i check first, Plugs???