Bandit Alley

MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: junior627 on July 07, 2005, 10:55:28 AM

Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 07, 2005, 10:55:28 AM
I will start by apologizing if this is a repeated topic but I am new here.
My 2000 B6 will not run if I move the choke past half way off. Could this be due to dirty air filter or gummed up carbs? I have already cahnged the plugs to no avail. Also on a side note if i am going to have to open the carbs to clean them is it worth Re Jetting with the Holeshot kit or just shim needles? Thanks for your patience...
Title: Stalling
Post by: Red01 on July 07, 2005, 08:29:50 PM
Dirty air filter will choke it more, so that shouldn't be your problem.

If the bike has sat, there's good chance the carbs need cleaning.
A jet kit will help a B6 quite a bit, so this would be a good time to install one.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 15, 2005, 08:55:28 AM
well I ran some Gumout in the fuel and now she will idle with the choke off, but the throttle response is horrible and and sometimes cuts out...
Title: Stalling
Post by: ray nielsen on July 15, 2005, 12:11:30 PM
I posted this "cure" before, but it seems appropriate again.

First disconnect the fuel line at the petcock, then drain the float bowls by loosening the drain screws a turn or two and let all the gas drain.

Tighten the drain screws, and pour Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner, available at most auto parts stores, until the carbs are full.  Let it sit overnight and drain the float bowls again.  Reconnect the fuel line and use the PRIME position to refill the carbs with gas.  

You should find that the crud in the idle jets has been dissolved and the bike should run better.

I've used this trick on many of my own and friend's bikes with very good results.  Yamaha sells a carb cleaner that has similar directions on the label, but it costs over $10 vs. about $6 for the Techron.  I figured that if put in without gas as Yamaha suggests it would work more quickly.    That seems to be the case and NO damage has yet occured to carb parts.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 15, 2005, 01:14:37 PM
What if anything do I have to remove from the bike to be able to access these drain screws? Sorry for the Newbie Questions...
Title: Stalling
Post by: Grissom on July 15, 2005, 01:30:52 PM
My 01 1200 was running crappy after sitting for months. So I drained the carbs and changed the plugs. You should not have to remove anything to drain the carb, however you will  need a piece of hose to direct the draining fuel into a container otherwise it leaks onto the engine and ground. I also removed most of the fuel in the tank and put in fresh stuff. The bike ran fine after. If I can do it you can also!
Title: drain screws
Post by: tacoman on July 15, 2005, 02:54:22 PM
The drain screws require an allen wrench.  Can't remember which size off hand.  Buy a metric set as these bikes have lots of allen bolts.  They can be reached without removing anything.  Keep a small container handy as a fair amount of gas does drain out.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 18, 2005, 08:07:22 AM
Well I tried to drain the carbs this weekend and found that the good old dealer that i bought the bike from had stripped the drain screw on the left most carb...Any tricks on how to get it out and replace it? Also where could i order a new one?
Title: Stalling
Post by: Grissom on July 18, 2005, 08:51:51 PM
I just took a look at my bike and i think that most likely it is not the screw that is stripped but the bowl itself. Since the bowl appears to be made out of aluminum and the screw is steel. It looks like the bowl will come off without to much effort, but I have never done it so perhaps someone else will chime in. A couple of ways to fix it 1) buy a new part if you can - www.ronayers.com or 2) Install a helicoil - You could do this repair youself if you are carefull or have a machine shop do it. However you will need to know the proper size of the screw in order to get the right repair kit.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 19, 2005, 07:55:10 AM
no it is the allen key head that has been rounded off...It looks like somebody used a standard size instead of the correct metric size
Title: Stalling
Post by: Grissom on July 19, 2005, 12:44:40 PM
Since it is the hex portion of the allen head screw that has been deformed you can try using  a torx bit ( read this on a forum somewhere)  or get a pair of needle nose vise grip pliers and grab the outside. I believe you said that it was one of the outer carbs so you should be able to get to it fairly easily.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 19, 2005, 12:57:20 PM
yeah i will try the Torx idea since the head is flush with the carb i cant sqeezze it with vise grips...Almost $9.00 for a erplacement screw @bike bandit...jeeze
Title: Stalling
Post by: Red01 on July 19, 2005, 11:06:58 PM
Is there anything special about the drain screw? Just from looking at the exploded view on the parts catalog, it doesn't look like it, but they're not known for exacting details. If it's just a plain allen cap screw, you should be able to find one at a hardware or auto parts store.

FWIW - Ron Ayers lists that screw at only $2.20
(Should be under $1 at Home Depot or NAPA, etc)
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on July 20, 2005, 08:52:15 AM
Checked RonAyers and it is part 35 not 34 that explains the price difference. It does look like it has a special tip at the end of the screw
Title: Update
Post by: junior627 on August 01, 2005, 08:10:22 AM
Well I seem to have fixed the choke problem I was having but now the bike seems to have no Top End power. When I hit 60 mph it doesnt want to go any faster...What should i check first, Plugs???
Title: Stalling
Post by: Red01 on August 02, 2005, 12:02:13 AM
Have you cleaned the carbs?
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on August 02, 2005, 08:13:18 AM
well i drained them and filled them with carb cleaner as described earlier in this post
Title: Stalling
Post by: Red01 on August 02, 2005, 11:53:41 AM
May need more effort than that.
Title: Stalling
Post by: junior627 on August 02, 2005, 12:25:23 PM
LOL...just the answer I didnt want to hear...
Title: Stalling
Post by: jfudo on August 02, 2005, 04:25:59 PM
Did you ever change your air filter?  

Here is what I would do (all steps before running):

 - Change plugs (I think you said you did this already), if so, take them off and clean them, that usually has good results.

 - Take tank off.  Turn petcock on prime to see if gas flows through system and out the carb end of the gas line well.

 - Take the carbs off, in the process you get a good look at the air filter and airbox, make sure everything looks good in there.

 - Check the tops of each carb, make sure needle seats well, diaphragm is not torn, o-rings are all there.  

 - Go through the bottoms of the carbs, note correct jet sizes, give them a good soak in a can of carb parts cleaner.  

 - Put them all back together, uncover mixture screws and set them to the proper number of turns.  Put it all back together.

 - I really enjoy doing things like this, I've always been the type to take everything apart though.

 - For more specific directions, consult your haynes or whatever manual you have, even though the book just makes it sound harder than it is.

When this is all done and it still runs poorly, you have it narrowed down to being an electrical problem.