Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: jwalters on April 21, 2005, 01:24:57 AM
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Anyone successfully removed/punctured/drilled into a baffle on their stock exhaust to get a better sound? Additional horsepower isn't a concern. After market slip ons are an option, but before I go spending $200-400 on a new can, I thought I would see if anyone has had luck with modifying the stock exhaust.
:thanks:
-jesse
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Jesse,
Before I got my Yosh slip on I did drilled out the baffles in my stocker. It made more sound, it was an improvement, but no improvement in the performance. Being able to hear the engine was good for me though, I like to know what's going on and with the stocker sometimes I actually could not hear the engine over the wind noise.
I suggest that you wait until you can get yourself a nice Yosh slip-on. No prejudice here, they are just the best (IMHO, no offense to anyone). A new slip on with a mid pipe will make a difference, even without re-jetting. When you re-jet (you will) things get to be really fun!
Steve
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I highly recommend a Scorpion exhaust, no rejetting or repacking and have a lifetime warranty. I will also bet that you won't find any better sounding slip-on/bolt-on anywhere. IMHO as well as others. :grin: Check out pipecity on the net. I drilled my can out, "I did have an 03 B12" sound improved over stock, but nothing takes the place of a good aftermarket can.
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Thanks for the replys! But maybe I didn't make myself clear, I don't want to spend the dough for a slip on/bolt on. I realize they would provide better performance/sound, but I just don't want to spend the money. (I'm a cheap @$$) I was just curious if anyone has done the mod I described above and if so how? (drill, cut or pound it out) I really don't want this to turn into a holy war of "what exhaust is the best" so I'll just leave it at that.
Thanks!
jesse
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Call this guy. He'll stick it up in there....
(http://www.tiptonium.com/videogames/favorites/Lair%20of%20the%20Bemani%20Bastards_files/drill.png)
:beers: :stickpoke: :banana:
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Thanks for the replys! But maybe I didn't make myself clear, I don't want to spend the dough for a slip on/bolt on. I realize they would provide better performance/sound, but I just don't want to spend the money. (I'm a cheap @$$) I was just curious if anyone has done the mod I described above and if so how? (drill, cut or pound it out) I really don't want this to turn into a holy war of "what exhaust is the best" so I'll just leave it at that.
Thanks!
jesse
I'm only asking $60.plus shipping for the D&D carbon fiber can. It was $600. new. If noone on the list takes it,I'll take it to the swap meet at Mid Ohio. Dan. (Dclander396@aol)
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So that D&D is a huge deal, considering the amount of effort and resultant blah sound that will result for tinkering with the stocker. I remember a Bandit Talk lister, Tom Welch, trying it with a big bit and having a heck of a time. Nothing like the sound of a GSXR air-cooled motor through a glass pack. Spend the $60.
Marc/Atl
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After market slip ons are an option
maybe I didn't make myself clear
I just don't want to spend the money
Nope, it wasn't very clear, seems to kinda change as the thread goes on. The one thing that has been clear after reading threads about this subject for several years now is that most folks (including myself) are not happy with the results of drilling out their baffles on the Bandit and end up buying (at least) a slip on.
Good luck,
Steve
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I see your bike is a '98. I don't know how many miles are on it, but I assume it has enough miles on it that any baffle removal in the mid pipe or muffler will be made more difficult by the fact that the heat cycles of the metal will have made it very hard and difficult to cut. It can be done, but don't expect it to be a fast and easy mod.
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Yes, I partially drilled it out at first. Little to no performance difference noticed, but sounded better.
Later I COMPLETELY gutted the can! This was a pain in the ass! It took about 6 hours and a lot of beer. But it can be done!
Tools used:
One big hammer (2-3lb. sledgehammer with short handle).
Something long straight and solid preferably with a pointed flat end [/b](No not a screwdriver!) (Instead, I used the lugnut wrench from my 1995 Chevy Pickup) This worked perfectly due to the fact that it has a big head (socket side) to strike, and pointed flat surface to cut the internals.
A big pair of channel locks (this is used to grasp and twist the metal baffles.
Once tools are obtained get a beer.
Place the can on a Very well padded surface that is then placed on something hard like concrete.
Take a swig of beer
Stand can upright and working from the flange end,start trying to remove the screen, then baffles.
You will find it easier to attempt to strike the sides of the baffles/screen, as these are spot welded into place. Once welds are broken the piece is sitting inside can, try to bend it so as to remove it. (Use your pliers)
Have more beer, and go take a piss!
Continue doing this until your bar is not long enough to reach the last baffle.
Drink More Beer!
Flip can over and try to knock out the last baffle, be careful not to scar the exhaust tip. Once the last one is free pull it out from the flange side.
More beer!
Reinstall on bike, start bike and be happy! (Do not ride if you had too many beers! :stop: :beers: :congrats:
You will notice a huge performance difference, and it will sound every bit as good as any aftermarket can!
I ran this for quite some time with a holeshot stage 2 kit. I eventually found a good deal on a used D&D pipe, and put that on only because I always hated the looks of that big stock pipe. But people will be amazed at how good your bike sounds with the STOCK pipe!
:beers: :beers: :beers:
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Super Thanks!
jesse
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I did it on a GSXR-750, only I used a 2" hole saw and a long extension from both ends to drill the baffles, it sounded awsome, LOUD!
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How bad of an idea would it be to drill a 1/8" inch hole into the exhaust while the bike is on it's center stand? I was thinking about drilling from the exhaust hole inward. Would a hole of this size make a difference?
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I don't think that drilling holes does much good, other than making it louder. The problem is the exhaust flow is still interrupted by all of the baffling. If you completely gut it, it is completely open, thus no restriction.
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Ah heck, do like the Harley & kit riders around here and just hack-saw off the silencer. You'll hear your motor all right. Actually, unless you're really skilled with metal work, I'd shop this site or ebay for a deal. From experience, I've wasted many days and skinned a lot of knuckles saving a few bucks.
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Would it be more productive to attempt to grind out the baffle in the midpipe? :?: More noise, and a bit less restriction, and you'd have a better midpipe to use with an aftermarket slipon that doesn't come with one!
(When/if you aren't happy with the homebrewed attempt.....) :motorsmile:
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Great idea Pete. Thanks.
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Funny stuff. Most of you probably don't even remember this thread, it's been a while. Anyway, last night my buddy Jason (land_shark) and I did some carb work and a valve adjustment on my 1G B12. Being very cafeful not to crack any of my parts. (just had to throw that in there Jason!) :monkeymoon:
After finishing that, we were kinda goofing around with the bike, and decided to take off the exhaust. Lo and behold, the exhaust had already been completely drilled out! Here's a picture! I just thought it was funny, discussing it on this thread for a week, and it had already been done by the previous owner. :duh:
I think this bike at one time was pretty tricked out, b/c it also has the 2inch mod on the air box, that has since been taped over. I removed the tape this morning to try and see how it would run, but it was running way to lean, so I think they must have put the jets back to stock. I'll be pulling the carbs apart later in the season and find out for sure. It runs like a champ now so I won't mess with it till I do my holeshot second stage jet kit and exhaust sometime this fall.
Ok, I'm rambling, I just wanted to share this funny story!
(http://genome.uiowa.edu/~jwalters/tmp/Jesse_can.jpg)
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Being very cafeful not to crack any of my parts. (just had to throw that in there Jason!) :monkeymoon:
At least he could refer you to a good machinist!
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Actually, I did the refering!
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And.... I'll bet y'all used a torque wrench. :roll:
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My turn to show off.
I've designed and built a silencer. It sounds like distant rolling thunder while cranking and gives a very smooth tone at high rpm. I designed it for a racecar that uses a Honda F4i with custom intake and exhaust. Final weight was 3.25 pounds. That's for a 20" batted length (damn long...).
I spec'd out my own perforated core (the secret) and used (big secret) $4/ft Fibrex mineral wool PIPE INSULATION instead of fiberglass. It's dirt cheap, will not burn out, and didn't make me itch! If you pour gas on the mineral wool, it will burn. But Fibrex assured me that backfires are nothing to worry about. I've seen absolutely no problems with the insulation.
To get the stock can louder, I'd repack it. Not with mineral wool, but with a Two Brothers or Yosh repack kit. They use steel wool & fiberglass. They use the steel wool so that the batting doesn't bun out. However, this makes the can louder (TADA!). Should be ~$20.
Or you could talk me into doing production...
Picture to come.
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Skippy the wonder sloth gave me a scoth-brite finish. I hate (TYPO) the polished look on a racecar. Shiny is for babies, klepto's and Harley owners.
(http://banditmotorcycles.com/v-web/gallery/albums/album17/JVcan01.sized.jpg)
Again with the huge pictures! Somebody fire me!
(http://banditmotorcycles.com/v-web/gallery/albums/album17/JVcan02.sized.jpg)
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Again with the huge pictures! Somebody fire me!
You're not fired - this time. :stickpoke:
Please don't post such huge pics though. I fixed it for you this time....