Author Topic: thoughts while doing first valve check. (Read 3489 times)

shrike · « **on:** July 04, 2007, 11:38:56 PM »

Ok I am starting a new thread because I would like to see what you guys and gals think of my following observations and recommandations while I am doing the first valve check and learning how the Bandit is built.

Initially I had a KLR which was also famous for running a bit lean from the factory so I played a bit with the carb but did not see any difference.

Anyways to come back to the Bandit I told myself I would not play with the carbs again in order to try to make it richer. But when taking the plugs out I saw they are a bit whitish so I am now thinking of maybe going to a jet kit stage 1. I don't want to modify the airbox or exhaust. SO my question is this, being a lazy ass, I would hate to remove the carbs. I did that on my nighthawk and did not really enjoy the process.

1) I am wondering if by using a 90 degree screwdriver the carb bowls can be taken off and the jets replaced with those from the stage 1 kit on the bike? From what I saw it should be doable but I don't have much experience. Any thoughts on that?

2) can the same above mentioned technique be used to take those plugs that hide the air mix screws out and turn them to the better position? I think it was 3 1/2 turns out but that I can find around here. I am saying that because those plugs already have a tiny hole in them and I think it might be useful to pop a sheet metal screw in them or something to take it off.

EDIT. I also forgot to ask what do you think if I would stuck the right feeler gauge (meaning the one that keeps the valve at the loosser end of the spec) between the rocker arm and the valve while adjusting the valve. I was thinking of trying to do that simultaneously at both valves under each rocker arm. Will this make it easier?
I also did not take the generator cover off but I was just turning the wheel with the tranny in 5th

okbandit · « **Reply #1 on:** July 05, 2007, 09:17:15 AM »

I would take the carbs off. The screws in the float bowls are never easy to remove, even with the carbs on a bench. The A/F screw plugs must be drilled out to remove so that is not possible on the bike either. As for the jet kit, do it. You will not be sorry, and I guarantee you will feel the difference on the bandito.

ZenMan · « **Reply #2 on:** July 05, 2007, 10:50:54 AM »

Take Okbandit's advice and take the carbs off.

People are always trying to cut corners, thinking it'll be easier... when in fact they are causing themselves 10 times the headaches than if they would have just done the job right in the first place.

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 05, 2007, 03:08:23 PM »

If you're looking for a fix without pulling the carbs, you can try just shimming the needles. You can do that with the carbs in place.

Like others have said, to pull the float bowls and drill out the EPA plugs, take the carbs out.

shrike · « **Reply #4 on:** July 05, 2007, 06:29:35 PM »

Quote from: "Red01"

If you're looking for a fix without pulling the carbs, you can try just shimming the needles. You can do that with the carbs in place.

Like others have said, to pull the float bowls and drill out the EPA plugs, take the carbs out.
1) Those phillips bowl screws often require an impact driver to break loose.
2) It would take a small 90* drill motor with a short bit to drill those EPA caps off with the carbs on the bike.

I was actually thinking of trying to put a sheet metal or wood screw directly in the cap somehow without drilling. Like I said those caps have each a tiny hole in the middle so this might be able to start the screw which would might be welded ons omething. I'll check it out after doing the valve adjustment.

Blade · « **Reply #5 on:** July 09, 2007, 12:22:44 AM »

Like was explained, it is better to pull the carbs and do the job. Here is a link that will help:

http://www.billsbikesnservice.com/stage2.htm

and another:

http://www.billsbikesnservice.com/float.htm

wedge98 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 09, 2007, 09:01:41 AM »

Absolutly take the carbs off.

It's a pain but in the long run it becomes much easier to work on the carbs, especially cleaning them and installing needles.

shrike · « **Reply #7 on:** July 09, 2007, 06:39:57 PM »

Well for now I decided to use it like that until about 6000 km and then I'll put the plugs out see what they look like. Or maybe even wait untild colder temps get here and see if the bike hesitates or anything.