Author Topic: TPS adjustment instructions here(Big improvement!!) (Read 60516 times)

longislandbandit99 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 02, 2007, 06:41:06 PM »

Has anyone here tried using jumper leads off the terminals on the TPS and clipping them to the meter leads? Some meters have probes that are actually small alligator clamps. Might make adjustments and readings a bit easier to achieve. I'm thinking to make a good adjustment you need to have the meter reading as you adjust the TPS, that way when you tighten the screws if R changes you can see it right away. I don't think small, thin wires and small alligator clips would add a lot of extra resistance.

Thoughts?

stinkypalm · « **Reply #46 on:** June 20, 2007, 11:39:34 PM »

Just did this today.

Mine base (Ohm 1) was almost exactly half way in the spec range at 4.97 kΏ but was 3.98 kΏ at WOT (Ohm 2). Target was 3.72 kΏ the surprising thing was how far I had to move the sensor to get a relatively small change. The adjustment ended up being about 1/4 of that available.

For giggle factor I also was measuring the (Ohm 2) closed throttle to open throttle and it was interesting to watch it change. Out of interest my closed throttle setting was only 0.35 kΏ and when the wide open was correct it became 0.060 kΏ. Percentage wise this is pretty big compared to the wide open percentage change to reach the required spec.

It will be really interesting to see if it helps an off iddle 1/8 throttle stumble I have had till 2500 Rpm since fitting a full Akra and HS stage 2 kit. We have been blaming it on the cut throttle slide springs but maybe it was this all along.

Wx here is crap and not quite able to ride yet after surgery will have a little ride around the block next week hopefully and see if this fixed it, I won't put my new UNCUT springs in till after just to see if this was the cause the whole time.

okbandit · « **Reply #47 on:** June 22, 2007, 12:15:47 PM »

I have two dyno runs that show the spring length affect at WOT if you would like to see them. They bring the slide up and transition to the mains earlier in the rpm. Don't have any hard data at lower throttle inputs though. Runs were on my bike about a month apart ; ivan's kit to a holeshot stage 2 no other changes. The 5* advancer fixed my low stumble, don't know why, seems unrelated, but it did.

solman · « **Reply #48 on:** June 30, 2007, 01:43:10 AM »

I bought a new TPS and I am still getting the same results as before. I get a good reading on the first one. I do the WOT and then chk it and still get a low reading no matter what I do.

okbandit · « **Reply #49 on:** June 30, 2007, 02:50:33 PM »

Make sure you are checking the correct pins, it should be easy to make the open throttle reading vary wildly with just small moves.

mademiriam · « **Reply #50 on:** July 02, 2007, 01:22:06 PM »

turns out this thread was right on the money, I was off my .33 took a huge movement to set that right. Thanks guys

shrike · « **Reply #51 on:** July 08, 2007, 04:06:22 PM »

So does it matter if engine is hot or not?
Also what is the tolerance? Can you adjust it at exactly 76% or is there a more or less number? I did not adjust mine but only checked it and the difference is 81%if I remember my numbers correctly. Should I leave it like that or go ahead and do a minor adjustment?

solman · « **Reply #52 on:** July 08, 2007, 09:35:19 PM »

Basically you are checking two pin with one lead and 1 pin with the other. Either I figure out what is going wrong, or just screw it. I average 36 mpg regardless of where I put it. I would like to set it up properly, but I can't seem to gain ground on the matter.

alphabenson · « **Reply #53 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:15:27 PM »

I believe I am checking the readings correctly.
If so they read, Ohm1 =4.98 and Ohm2 = 4.12
obviously there isn't a 76% difference between 1 and 2 but both still fall within spec.

I feel a bit disappointed with my gas mileage (33mpg avg) no matter riding style. Should I try to adjust it so there is a 76% difference?

If so, how? I see the two large screws but thats all I loosen both screws and then what? Move the entire sensor unit up or down?

Thanks
Ben Leslie

alphabenson · « **Reply #54 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:18:20 PM »

I found this quote on another site.
It may help clear up what prongs to measure between for each reading.

However it doesn't help me figure out how to make the adjustments. HELP ME Please

"NOTE: Notice that ohm2 goes between the middle prong and the top prong and that ohm 1 goes between the outside two prongs."

http://www.portablepct.com/fastlarry/tps.htm

Hope that helps.

Ben

solman · « **Reply #55 on:** September 05, 2007, 09:26:40 PM »

I even bought a new tps and still had the same problem and still get around 36 mpg. I gave up on trying to do it.

Red01 · « **Reply #56 on:** September 06, 2007, 02:45:02 PM »

Quote from: "alphabenson"

I found this quote on another site.
It may help clear up what prongs to measure between for each reading.

However it doesn't help me figure out how to make the adjustments. HELP ME Please

"NOTE: Notice that ohm2 goes between the middle prong and the top prong and that ohm 1 goes between the outside two prongs."

http://www.portablepct.com/fastlarry/tps.htm

You adjust it by loosening the two screws on the TPS sensor and rotating it to get it to the desired adjustment.

bikeb4cage · « **Reply #57 on:** September 17, 2007, 01:31:08 PM »

For what it's worth, I had recently adjusted my TPS and was curious as to the effect on mileage. I can still get MPG in the low 30's if I am riding hard - yesterday I took a 200 mile trip from Atlanta, south to Jonesboro and west a bit- combo of back roads and highway - was real easy on the throttle and rarely broke the speed limit (much)...was just taking an easy cruise -bike got better than 43 MPG, for what's it's worth. Bike has a stage II kit and is nekkid.

H2RICK · « **Reply #58 on:** September 23, 2007, 12:55:54 AM »

I get about 53 miles per Imperial gallon solo with all my camping gear on, which translates into ~42.5 miles per US gallon. This is with "moderate" speeds and not a lot of WOT or passing situations. I'm tickled to death with this on a heavy big-bore bike like the Bandit.
My '82 GS750E, OTOH, in the same conditions and roads would return ~62 miles per Imperial gallon or ~50 miles per US gallon. Smaller engine in a lighter bike uses less fuel, I assume......although you'd think it would be working harder and using more fuel. Apparently the GS was in a more efficient part of the rev range under the same riding conditions/speeds.
I really need to take the Bandit on a long steady speed run in the 5K-6K RPM range on a nice hot day to see what she'll return for mileage versus what the GS did.
I believe, at speed limit speeds, the Bandit engine is running too slow and is out of its "efficiency" range.
I also know that nice hot thin oil REALLY helps with the fuel economy on these air cooled four stroke Suzi engines.
I also feel that the TSCC design is a big help to fuel economy generally.
All in all, great engines (both of them), no matter how you look at 'em.
Dang, I'm still sorry I sold that GS.....

Red01 · « **Reply #59 on:** September 24, 2007, 10:57:20 AM »

WOW! My old '77 GS 750 (8-valve, not TSCC 16-valve) never got that kind of mileage! It got pretty much the same fuel economy as my B12. I do find I get better economy when I'm out on the twisies, riding spirited, but not too crazy, than I get droning the speed limit on the commute to work (which involves no more than 4-5 blocks of "city" riding and 49 miles of highways & freeway).