Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: bandit600 on March 31, 2005, 01:28:52 PM
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I tried going on bladesbandit.com to get instructions for valve adjustment, but i can't seem to access the site.
Can anyone tell me the valve clearances for a 2004 Bandit 600?
Thank you.
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Bill's site seems to be working just fine for me. The valve adjustment is covered in his how-to section on installing cams:
http://www.bladesbandit.com/cam.htm
However, the specs given are for a 1200. I haven't checked the B6 manual, so I don't know if their specs are the same or not.
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Haynes uses the same specs on the 2G Bandit 600S (2001) as the 2G 1200's. Also, the same spec applies to my 2005 model - should all be the same....
.004 - .006 on intake
.007 - .009 on exhaust
FWIW..... terrebandit and I did NOT remove the carbs as shown on Blades site. The choke cable was disconnected but not the throttle cable.
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I don't remove carbs either, nor any of their cables.
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Per the GSF600 manual, intake .004-.006", exhaust .007-.009"
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Just checked mine and I can't even slide my .010 cm under any of the rockers. #4 is definitely the tightest of all. Good thing I decommission my bike and tore everything apart. My valves were quiet. Could not here them over the exhaust at idle.
Next up are the carbs as soon as the valves are done.
I've got to get new feelers, my Grandpa had a set and they don't say metric or inches anywhere on them so my .010 cm could actually be .010 inches for all I know. He past away a year ago or I could ask him.
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.010cm would be .010 centimeter, which is the same thing as .1mm
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Finished my Valves today. I can actually here the light tapping. Sounds like an old press room on the movies. All the typewriters at once in harmony! That and fixing my carb float height (was 15 mm moved to 17 mm) solved my weird surge/stumble problem. Runs a lot better now.
Paul - I was referring to .010 cm vs .010 inch. By looking at the feelers I had no idea which one it was. I bought a new set that has the markings on them. :beers: I just didn't want to take a chance and mess up my valves because I assumed it was the wrong one.
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I too need to adjust my valves. Can anyone tell me how long this job may take? It seems I always run short of daylaight. A may bring it to the shop, but I hate that. Last time I did it was about 3 1/2 to 4 years ago and I had a garage back then and wasn't in any rush, took about three days. I did alot of extra cleaning and messing with stuff that time. Getting in and doing the adjustment then closing up I'm thinking 2 hours. Does that sound about right? :thanks:
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I took off everything including extra pieces to make my life easier on Thursday - 1.5 hours going slow and placing everything out nice a neat so I can put it back together later.
Adjusting valves took about 30 minutes. - Saturday
Putting everything back together took another 1.5 hours. - Saturday
My petcock never shuts off so add another 30-45 minutes draining that into a 5 gallon gas can, I also cleaned my carbs which took another 2 hours.
Testing and carb synching took another 30 minutes. - Sunday
If I don't go slow I forget the stupid/simpliest of items.
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Just got myself an '02 Bandit 600 with 18,500 k and I don't think it's ever had valve clearances checked, so I'd like to get on it. What o-rings and gaskets should I get beforehand so I don't have to stop in the middle of things?
Great BBS BTW, glad I found you!
Paul
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You should be able to do the job without replacing any of those things, just a little bit of fresh RTV for the cam plug corners.
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Thanks for responding..
Maybe I'm slooooow. What is RTV?
Paul :?: :?:
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RTV = silicone sealer, aka form-a-gasket, gasket-in-a-tube, Permatex.
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing.