Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: lethal dose on January 16, 2012, 08:21:00 PM
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Looking to turn my y2k b12 into a show bike. REALLY like the v&h meg style exhaust bullet bob runs. Upon contacting v&h, they said no such exhaust was ever made for a bandit... insight?
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dan moto makes one but I'm not sure how you feel about having a Dan moto on there. Most people rave about these exhausts but some are in the irrational "chinese crap" mode of thinking. They make a conical and a GP replica
Take your pick. For a $100 even if you hate it it's a cheap experiment. The good thing about Dan Moto is their exhausts are plain looking without a whole bunch of doodads or huge honking product badges.
http://www.dan-moto.com/gsf-bandit-600-1200-n-s-wholesale-18_20_58.html?zenid=6tl0orv8adt17mi1cu9n9v88q3
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I've seen danmoto stuff. Looking for the actual drag meg:
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=jwMY_TjRwmc
If you can't view the mobile page... scroll down and click on the vid. I want LOUD.
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Page comes up with random videos unless you want your pipe to sound like Nicky Ninedoors! :grin:
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Go to YouTube and search "vance and hines exhaust 03 bandit 1200".
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Nice vid. I wonder if that is maybe a GSXR1100 exhaust mated to the Bandit 1200 as they are the same engine. Sometimes if you ask the company you're not talking to a mechanic but some dude that just looks up what you want on a product chart and just says "Well it's not here on my chart". Also you could work up one with a customized collector box then just get it chromed. Another option would be to get the Dan moto one which is basically a copy and get it chromed. Shouldn't cost too much to chrome that small exhaust. It looks to me like it was a custom job with the headers being fitted to a custom collector box. Because really an exhaust is just a pipe. You'd probably have to rejet though. The guy in the vid has either not rejetted or the bikes cold as when he tries to rev it there is a miss as the fuel mixture drops suddenly. I'm sure $8 worth of jets will fix that.
Maybe for fun send the link to the company and say "I want this" someone there may recognize what it is. They may say. "Oh yeah that's our 1989 GSXR1100 schtick2000 pipe" or whatever. Can't hurt maybe replying to the youtube post or even trying to email the guy he may have more info for you that Vance&Hines doesn't have.
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User "bullet bob" here has identical pipe... check the first page of the pic thread under "big bandit banter". Shows he's inactive, or I'd pm him.
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I'll try and see if I can search the dark dungeons of the internet for you. Sometimes you'd be suprised what you can find. What year is his bike? Theoretically any headers and pipes should fit on there as they all have the same engine so maybe they offered it to the 2001-2005 GEN2 bikes but not the 1996-2000 GEN1 Bikes even though its the same engine and the email/product chart guy is just not putting 2 and 2 together.
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His is a gen1. Is love to get ahold of him.
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I went to Vance and Hines site and it sucks balls. According to them they don't even make an exhaust for a Bandit 1200 and only for the Hyabusa which is just a load of crap. My friend owns a bike shop so I may have to call him tomorrow so we can look through a real dealers catalog. I'll keep looking. There is something out there that is called a V&H "Sidewinder Header" which fits the GSXR1100/Bandit 1200.
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Whos your favorite internet bitch??
http://www.ebay.ie/sch/sis.html?_nkw=VANCE+HINES+PRO+PIPE+EXHAUST+DRAG+GSXR+1100+BANDIT+1200
In Euros will try States or Canadian money. Its a GSXR1100 sidewinder drag exhaust so no wonder V&H couldn't help you. Try them again.
Quote from other forum:
"Hi I'm new to the site. I talked to a guy at a shop that sells the sidewinder exhaust for busa's ans zx-14's. To get one for the bandit, we have to look at the 91-93GSX-R 1100."
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Thanks, bro. Been looking, but my Google-fu sux.
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The Bandit engine is exactly the same as the GSXR1100 with only milder cams and slightly bored out so it should fit fine but you may have to rig up a mount for the end pipe. You will need to re-jet unless you like your bike to run like ass but if you don't want to mod the airbox one or two up on the mains and a shim or two will get you close.
It's only $211 online which is a huge steal considering you get the headers as well. Run and get it before it's gone or call V&H if you're uncomfortable with internet purchasing.
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what about front frame clearance. also, the ones pictured to not look like bullet bob's or the ones in the vid... the head pipes are bent differently. that seems like a good deal, but i am concerned that i'd get the wrong item... not a big ebay buyer, here. also, i'm running the holeshot stage 2 jet kit/airbox removal/5 degree advance... still think i'd need to rejet?
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I think thats just a stock/fill in picture for all the pipes as different models there have the same pic. Try calling V&H and see what they say. I have a Holeshot stage 1 but am modding it myself to accept a K&N filter. You should be good with the standard stage 2 with maybe minor adjustments. I can't see this pipe requiring either no change or at most 1 up or down on the jets. It probably be totally fine with whatever you have now. You could try for fun adjusting the mixture screws up and down to artificially create a slightly richer or leaner mixture to see if it helps. After you've determined whether you need richer or leaner or no change set the mixture screws back to where you had them before so you're not compensating with the pilots. I'd wager you probably need no changes or at most 1 mainjet size up as this pipe comes with it's own header which may flow a bit more freely than the stock Bandit header. If you still have the stock cams one mainjet up would do it max. You may just be perfect with what you have now. Only way is to pop it on and see what the bike needs with some plug chops.
I'm assuming you have the stage 2 with pods not the stage 2 airbox mod corrrect? What mains are you running now? 147.5's?
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not sure on jet sizes... bought the bike this way.
http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/bndt_b12_stage2.shtml
that's the kit. i've also been considering doing a supertrapp slip on if i can find a decent mid pipe without the flange. not entirely sure yet.
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i run a kerker k series on my vmax. i pulled the core, removed all the packing, replaced the core, dyno'd it. sounds ignorant. thought about trying the same with the supertrapp... just removing the packing and replacing the perforated core then having it dyno'd. i like LOUD... as long as it performs. of course, i know the bandit will never sound like the vmax so i'm not exactly aiming for that.
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What slip on do you have on the Bandit now? It's not the horrid stock pipe I hope! If you want to quickly check what jets are in there you can put the bike on the side stand and drain carb number 1's float bowl. You should be able to unscrew the bolts on the float bowl then CAREFULLY unscrew the mainjet and take a look. On the mainjet there will be a number something like 147.5 or 150 or something like that, just note what it is. CAREFULLY screw the mainjet nice and snug in there, it's soft brass so don't go jihad tightening it in there. If you are already running an aftermarket slip on and end can, chances are it will be fine. The worst that would happen is it would be a little lean up top as the new headers would flow more freely than the stock headers. If you already know that say you have 147.5's in there then you could buy some $8 insurance and get 150's in case you need them.
Mikuni jets go up in 2.5 increments ie 145, 147.5, 150, 152.5 etc. Popping in jets is not as hard as it sounds and you already don't have to deal with the bullshit airbox so it's even easier. If you are unsure of putting on the throttle and choke cables, you can loosen them enough that you can move the carb bank left and right or tilt it enough to get at the inner carbs. On my bike I can do it without even loosening the cables as I have hex bolts on the float bowls so all I have to do is use a bent allen key and move the carbs one notch left and right. If you were in the Toronto area I would just say come over with some beer and we'll do it together. There are lots of guys on this board that can help you out or we can walk you through it if you need the help.
If you like it loud with good breathing than the Dan Moto mini Carbon fibre would really be your style. It's too loud for me but allegedly it's a really good pipe and flow extremely well. Any slip on as long as it comes with a mid-pipe is going to do the job. If you do go with the V&H, because it comes with it's own headers you may need to go one or two up on the mainjets, but maybe you may need nothing. Only way is to pop it on and see if up top is weaker or stronger and look at the plugs. Just be advised that it's possible you may need a jetting change with a freer flowing exhaust setup.
For example say on my bike I'm awsome at 112.5's with my Muzzy slip on and mid pipe. If I add the stepped headers from Holeshot I'd probably have to go to 115's or maybe even 117.5's to get the benefit out of them as if you have more airflow you need more fuel or you're actually losing power. However if I kept the headers the same and just went to another slip on and mid-pipe 9 times out of 10 I wouldn't need any jetting changes or maybe just another shim or a 1/4 turn on the mixture screws max as it wouldn't greatly upset the airflow.
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it's the stock head and mid pipe... been jet hot coated. two brothers m5 carbon flange on. i also have a two brothers c series flange on... both came with the bike. personally, i don't like either. they sound good and deep, just not loud or flashy enough. they are both for sale here on bandit alley for reasonable... i'd even take offers. as far as doing carb work, i'm no stranger to it... done lots of it. i'll have to gank the bowl and see what i'm running for a main. my guess is that if i slapped another mid pipe on and put a supertrapp on the end, i'd need no jetting. the two brothers runs a 2.5" core as it is, i believe. the supertrapp is 2". so, if anything, it might be a trade off, considering the stock mid pipe has it's own baffle of sorts in it. the vance and hines drag pipe may be a different story. my guess is in line with yours... at worst... i'd need to richen it up a bit. not sure which route ima take yet. was looking at the danmoto link pipe and the delkevic link pipe. both cheap options, and since i plan on jet hotting what ever i get, there's no need to drop a ton of coin. the nice thing about the delkevic is it utilizes the stock mounting points and doesnt just rely on the collector clamp and muffler clamp... the problem with it is... it has the flange on it that i don't want and cutting before the flange might not leave enough straight section of the pipe to clamp/weld another can on.
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Most slipons with mid-pipe are just that, bolt it on and go. I'm using the stock mounting hardware with my Muzzy mid-pipe and slip on and it's nice and strong with no leaks. Once you start mixing and matching mid-pipes and slip ons things can get a little weird. Since you have the horrid stock mid-pipe you are almost getting no benefit out of the stage 2 you have on there. In fact I would be shocked if it was running much richer jets than stock. On these bikes most of the restriction is from the horrid mid-pipe. The end can does help alot, but most of the stupidity of the stock system starts after the collector box.
If you just replace the end can your not really getting the benefit out of having an open exhaust. It's like having a megaphone on a kazoo. Now I'm kind of worried about what jets are in there. If the previous owner did sort of a half-assed jet job(we see that alot here) it might be jetted a little wonky. Either it's running super rich with the recommended stage 2 jets in there or he's sort of created his own Frankenkit himself after realizing the recommended settings are way too rich. It might be worth the 20 mins if you can spare it to take a quick look at what the bike is running. Trust me you will get alot more power with a proper mid-pipe since that is about %65 of the restriction with the proper jets running in there. You may have to wear DEPENDS(R) adult undergarments just so you don't soil yourself once it's all setup :grin:. Fortunately it's super cheap to get these bikes running right. It might be worth it to you to take a look at a consolidated mid-pipe/slip on solution as it will have been designed to work together rather than a Franken-solution.
I literally have the cheapest Muzzy you can get for this bike and the mid-pipe and end can hole size is at least 1.5 times what that horrid shit stock had. I got rid of the stock mid-pipe and end can the first week I got the bike and threw it out. I didn't even bother putting it on here for free, it's only good for like clubbing baby seals or something, if you can even lift it. Trust me its shit shit shit.
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Here are a couple of bandit exhaust vids which may help you out for what your looking for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4CGpgsnm8g&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaxKQ0MZi-M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOyKT18oMJU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0uV9oeCs_4&feature=related
I didn't really do an exhaustive search but it may give you an idea. You're actually really lucky since someone did all the work of installing a stage 2 and pulling the airbox for you. You should be in great shape if you do go with something different. Did the previous owner clear out the stock mid-pipe? I've seen it rarely that some more enterprising people take the mid-pipe off and take all the crap out of it which helps alot. It would be just short of an aftermarket mid-pipe. I just threw the whole thing out however my stock GEN2 mid-pipe I believe is even worse than the GEN1 bikes.(sounds crazy but true) When I get a chance I'll mosey on to my storage site and measure the mid-pipe and end can for you. I believe it's a 2 inch core. I wanted something with some bite but not to attract too much attention. It's very similar to the touring 17" long end can Holeshot has. This may give you sort of an idea of what people are running.
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well... i was looking through the boxes and boxes of parts that came with my bike. to my dismay, i found the receipt for the modified stage 1 holeshot jet kit. i'm wondering if the original owner did the mod 1 then swapped the airbox for the pod filters later on without rejetting. of course, the guy i bought it off of has no clue and isn't sure how to put me in contact with the original owner. i REALLY don't feel like tearing the carbs completely apart just to see what jets are in them. ugh.
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ok... made some interesting headway. found a receipt with the original owner's contact info. the bike DOES have the full stage II setup including jetting. problem is... he THINKS he may have removed the 5 degree advance and put the stock back in but can't remember. :annoy: is there a good way to tell weather or not it has the 5 degree advance in it or not? there is a slight hesitation at cruising speed... nothing to the point that i'm concerned, but i'll be it's running a bit rich with the stage II and stock link pipe.
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checking out some d&d stuff. seems pretty loud. problem is... they don't make a midpipe/can for the bandit 1200... just a can that bolts on to the original link pipe.
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I don't understand why exhaust manufacturers would not at least offer a mid-pipe. While just having an end can helps a bit without the requisite mid-pipe its just noise. While I like having a great sound on a bike just as much as the next guy, it has to do something as well. Otherwise I would just go ride a Harley if I wanted to be slow and noisy. My friend had a Yoshimura slip on with mid-pipe on his Bandit but it was a little pricey as you can imagine. What you could do is maybe order the Dan Moto Carbon Fiber exhaust at $100 and just steal the nice stainless steel link pipe it comes with then put on the end can of your choice. It would probably be the easiest if you don't like the plain carbon fiber end can it comes with you could use it as a spare. Since you already have a couple of end cans you could change it every day of the week if you liked. When I bought my Muzzy it came as a kit:
1 End can with mounting hardware
1 Mid-Pipe that uses stock hardware
1 Center stand stop that bolted on to the centre stand bolt
I got it for $150 shipped years ago from ebay. I'll see if I can scare up some more out there in internetland because without the mid-pipe it's not really doing much. Another alternative is to take the stock mid-pipe off and gut it. I'm not sure how labour intensive or effective that is but some guys here have done it.
Heres the Dan Moto site for the Bandit. You could just get their cheapest exhaust system and steal the parts as all their mid-pipes are stainless steel like my Muzzy:
http://www.dan-moto.com/gsf-bandit-600-1200-n-s-wholesale-18_20_58.html?zenid=hp2949q6h7nngurthaql0g8u82
Really the exhaust only has to do a few things so you should be able to make it work:
1 Unrestrict the mid-pipe and end can
2 Provide baffling to not wake up the neighbors
3 Look at least semi-good and reduce weight
Thats it. So I guess if you did buy the Dan Moto exhaust and just didn't like the plain Carbon fiber end can(or whichever one you ordered), the mid-pipe has mounts for springs welded on there so you could theoretically use whatever 2" end can you wanted to instead of spending $300 on Yoshimura or something. If the end can only has a bolt to link to the mid-pipe then it still works fine and if you are worried about the spring loops attached to the mid-pipe you could cut them off with a dremel if it annoyed you enough. Either way you win.
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As far as the slight hesitation if hes running the jets at the full rich stage 2 then hell yeah your rich!!! You could try maybe lowering the needle one notch and see if that cripins it up a bit. My guess is if you are hammering the throttle your dumping more fuel then it can take. However it may be worth it to just leave it and wait and see when a new exhaust with a proper mid-pipe comes along. I installed my Muzzy in like 15 mins on my bike and I'm no super mechanic. Might be worth it to leave it for now and wait until you can really jet it properly with a proper mid-pipe. Who knows with a proper mid-pipe on their it may just be perfect so maybe just hold off if you can for a week or two to see if you can scare something up. I know Muzzy sells the full kit but it's probably not the sound level your looking for as I did research to see what would un-restrict properly but not be too crazy as I live in a big city.
As far as the advancer is concerned I'm sorry I put mine on so long ago I can't remember if it has any markings on it or not. I did see my stock advancer a couple of weeks ago when rummaging through one of my hoarding piles of junk and it had no markings that I could tell. The advancer helps crispin the throttle and gets the power on a little faster. Maybe you could email Dale Walker at Holeshot and he could tell you what to look for. Just explain that you bought the bike used and the previous owner doesn't remember if the advancer is on their or not. If you wanted to check the advancer is on the right hand side of the bike beneath the timing cover. You can check it without draining the oil if you put the bike on the side stand and lean it over as much as possible then let it sit for a bit. Put a tinfoil turkey pan or something to catch any drips then take the bolts off and check, if your careful taking it off then you can save the gasket.
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Delkevic makes an oem replacement link pipe with flange. Might be an option. Ima go pull a spark plug and get a generic a/f reading.
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If you like post some pics here of the plugs so we can all have a look. Like I said I'm not sure if you would want to adjust the jetting now it's up to you. However lowering the needles a notch is a simple job and easily reversable. Did the gentleman you buy it from give you an idea on what mainjet you have kicking around in there?
Actually hold on I may be mis-interpreting what the previous owner was doing did you say he put stage 1 jets(the receipt) in the stage 2 pods? If so then it will be lean even with the bad mid-pipe. It sounds like he was getting bad advice or something. If true, then my guess is probably he did the stage 1 and with the wonky mid-pipe it was still too rich. So he probably said to himself "Well I guess it needs more air" then went off the deep end and put pods on there when the real culprit was the mid-pipe. I believe even on the GEN1 bike the jets would be around 125 or something but I'm not sure with the GEN1. My stage 1 for my GEN2 came with the following:
25 .5 mm shims for the needles
3 sets of mainjets 107.5's, 110's, 112.5's(stock is 100)
1 set of pilots 17.5's(stock is 15's)
instructions on how to mod the airbox.
Well don't fret it too much at least he did all the hard work for you. All you need now is to get a proper mid-pipe and some proper jets which is like $8. With a stage 2 and mid-pipe and slip on the mains should be running in the 150 range. I'm running the suggested 110 mains and the 17.5 pilots with a K&N filter right now. The suggested setup for my bike is to use the stock filter but I foolishly popped in the larger pilots based on the instructions instead of my own good common sense and it was horridly rich at cruise and idle. Popping in the K&N temporarily solved somewhat but it's still too rich at cruise. Up top it's a little weak so I've ordered larger mainjets and the stock pilots that I'll pop in there in the spring. I still have the airbox on there with an extra 1.5" hole. So if I'm a lean up top with the airbox on there still you'd be really lean with pods using a similar mainjet. Which may explain the hesitation.
Here is a good site that sort of gives you an idea of what you should be running. You sound to me you know what the hell your doing unlike the previous owner so I'm sure you'll get her running right in no time. Check this out:
http://www.portablepct.com/fastlarry/banditfaq.htm
I would just hold off to save you time and heartache until the real culprit the horrid stock mid-pipe is fixed that way your not jetting twice, however popping off one of the outer float bowls and having a peek is only about 15 mins of work that would definitely give you what the hell the guy was running. These bikes are almost ludicrously easy to get tuned so I wouldn't fret it too much. Every one and their mom on this site has a GEN1 stage 2 so you should be able to glean some good information. With the previous owner not remembering what the hell is in there is a little disconcerting. Who knows what he did, maybe he was trying to jet around the problem(shit stock mid-pipe) and now the jetting is wonky.
For example on my bike if I want to jet around the horridly rich cruise I can turn my mixture screws in so that the bike barely idles but cruise if fine and there is more power there but thats not a solution obviously. It's possible he decided that it was too rich and is artificially compensating with the needle or pilots instead of just fixing the problem. The stage 1 and 2 kits really only work properly with an aftermarket mid-pipe and slip on. You could jet it properly manually but then don't buy the kit, just a selection of mainjets. But maybe he read something on the internet and only got it half right like the broken telephone game where you pass a message along then see whats left of the message. He had the right idea but just didn't execute it correctly.
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ok... i pulled the float bowls and ganked the main. 147.5... so my guess is he did install the stage 2 kit. as for the plugs, they were kinda nondescript. the base of the insulator surrounding the center electrode was tanish but the tip was still white and clean looking. the ground electrode was also pretty nondescript... probably more on the light then dark side. there was a ring of soot around the rim of the threads. to add... they were changed just 400 miles ago, so i might need to "break them in" just a tad longer. i certainly don't think the bike could possibly run lean with a 147.5 and the stock mid pipe. ima go put a few miles on it, here.
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Good job your lucky having those 147.5s in there! Ok so at least you know what the hell is going on. The sooty base ring is a sign of rich condition. Since the top electrode and the tip are clean the pilots and cruise is probably fine. How about way down at the base of the porcelain electrode? This will show the base jetting. My guess is that on full throttle your going to be rich with the stock mid-pipe which is why your base ring is a bit sooty. Theoretically you should have one light turn of colour on the base ring and the centre electrode should be clean with some light colouring. If the tips have black streaks or soot then the pilots or mixture screws are too rich but for you it seems perfectly fine. I have a feeling it's slightly rich between the two of us due to the stock mid-pipe killing the flowing at higher rpm's. If the porcelain is clean all the way down to say the last 1/3 with no black streaks then your needle setting is probably fine as well. You may be in better shape than you think. With a proper mid-pipe on there you may have to richen the needle and/or turn the mixture screws out a 1/4 turn but for now it's not bad just slightly rich(which makes sense). As the miles pile up it will colour more and give you a better idea. If the base ring(the ring where the ground strap is welded to) is already a little sooty after only 400 miles then you are most likely rich on the mains with the stock mid-pipe. With an aftermarket mid-pipe you will probably be very very close or have to go one up to 150's and/or adjust the needles and pilots screws but not too much.
If possible if you can find a safe place to really hammer the throttle and do a plug chop that will really tell you what's going on as far as the mains are concerned.
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Dogs a bit between 2500-3500 while at cruising speed. Smooths out as I roll on it. If I give it full throttle from the start, it rips with no hesitation. Seems to be dogging in the midrange. My guess is a midpipe and can will solve that.
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Possibly, could be that he's running the needle artificially lean to compensate for a rich mainjet. Once you get the new mid-pipe on there with a slip-on then you'll be able to more accurately figure out what's going on. You could for fun turn the mixture screws out 1/4 of a turn to see if it helps in that transition range temporarily to the mains. You can always turn it back if it doesn't help you at least you'll know if you need to be richer or leaner there.
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What's the easiest way to access the mixture screws on the b12?
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I just use a discombobulated flat head screwdriver bit and a dental or hand mirror. Just note in your head where they are now so you can turn them back. Out is richer in is leaner. They should be in the front part of the carbs towards the engine side just in front of the floatbowls. Just grab a mirror and you should see the stalks and a brass flat head screw in there.
Here is a pic of my carbs which are slightly different with the mixture screw plugs still in tact:
(http://www.portablepct.com/fastlarry/2001b12carbs.jpg)
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Accessed through the same method as mains?
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Nope you don't have to take anything apart you should be able to access them with the carbs and floatbowls still on there. Take a look at the pic. The thing called "A/F plug" should roughly be where the mixture screws are. Just remember the screws are "upside down" for the sake of the threads. So lefty loosy, righty tighty when say on the left hand side of the bike to turn out you would turn towards the engine case. On the right hand side to turn the screws out you would turn towards the rear of the bike.
Take a look at where the mixture screws are now and maybe mark them with a marker, then turn them out a 1/4 turn if you want to test that transition area.
Here is the microfiche for your bike. I don't have a pic unfortunately of the GEN1 carbs:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2000-suzuki-gsf1200sy-bandit/o/m6134#sch278348
Numbers 36 to 39 is the pilot screw assembly(number 42 is the plug) and as you can see its in the same location as the GEN2 bandit on an elongated stalk from the body of the carb. Get a hand mirror or something before poking around so you know what to adjust. Unless the previous owner didn't even bother to drill out the A/F screw plugs!! :duh:
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took it for a good ride. the worst i notice it is in 5th gear at 50 mph at 3k rpm. also just found out the original owner dropped the front sprocket 1t. as soon as i roll on the throttle... it goes away. like i said, if i rip on it full throttle, there is no hesitation anywhere. only when cruising at about 3k.
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man... listen to this kid's 600... unreal:
http://www.youtube.com/user/hurricanesupra/videos
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Did you find the mixture screws and give it a 1/4 turn out to see if it will help you a bit?
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not yet... really don't feel like messing with it tonight. what i'll probably do is sell my two brothers cans and pick up the danmoto and go from there. heck, might solve the problem. if not, i'll start tweaking. :beers:
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Yeah its a good idea, there really is no point until you're happy with the exhaust situation. Once it's on there you'll have a better idea of what needs to happen anyway. It sounds to me that the cruise might be a little lean but you won't know until all your ducks are in a row. Even not %100 it's not like these bikes are slow. Probably a 1/4 turn out would help in that transition area but like I said it's possible the needle is set a notch too lean to compensate for a rich mainjet. Best to leave it until all is good.
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Just a heads up for you Dan Moto is in the States now and offer free shipping in the lower 48!!
http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/gsf-bandit-600-1200-n-s-wholesale-18_20_58.html
Prices slightly higher but with no shipping costs which is a bonus.