2007 Bandit 1250 ABS: Tightening the Exhaust Header Bolts

[billincnetraljersey]

Per user manual maintainence schedule, The exhaust header bolts are to be check for tightness.  I don't have a torque wrench so I just turned each bolt by a tiny bit, less than 30 degrees.

I managed to get to all the bolts except the top bolts at the middle 2 cylinder.  I even removed the bottom bolt that holds the radiator.  The radiator swings forward a bit but I still cannot get to the header bolts.

Any suggestions?

-bill

[Frisk Fisk]

I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts?  But if you want to borrow a torque wrench, I can meet you in Frenchtown some Saturday or Sunday soon and lend you one.  You can probably do the headbolts right there if you know what the torque specs are.  I can bring a few extensions if you're having trouble reaching some of the bolts.  I live near Philadelphia and its a nice ride for me.

[Red01]

As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes,

For us Americans, thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, there's no reason to take it to the dealer for service for warranty purposes. All you need to do is keep records and receipts to prove you (or a shop of your choice) did the scheduled maintenance. This same act protects you from being denied a warranty claim if you've modified your bike and have problems not related to your mods.

[billincentraljersey]

The manual only mentioned oil change and check chain tension at 600 miles.  AND check all the chassis nuts and bolts.  Is there more I need to do?  I want to avoid the $200 oil change.

-bill

[billincentraljersey]

Thanks Frisk,

I can get hold of a torque wrench if need be.  My problem is trying to get to the top header bolts at the 2 middle cylinders, without having to remove the radiator.  Don't want to open "another project".  I always find forum people have the most innovative ideas and tricks.

[ZenMan]

As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes,

For us Americans, thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, there's no reason to take it to the dealer for service for warranty purposes. All you need to do is keep records and receipts to prove you (or a shop of your choice) did the scheduled maintenance. This same act protects you from being denied a warranty claim if you've modified your bike and have problems not related to your mods.

Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)

I haven't done my header bolts yet, I still have one arm in a sling... if you guys have any good tips I'm paying attention.  

[Red01]

Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)

Is there even a m/c equivalent to ASE? I wouldn't have gone there anyway. I'd show them my A&P license.  

[ZenMan]

Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)

Is there even a m/c equivalent to ASE? I wouldn't have gone there anyway. I'd show them my A&P license.  

There ya go... if you're qualified for aircraft I guess you can work on motorcycles, aye?  

That's a good question. The only motorcycle certification I know of is a diploma from MMI... Motorcycle Mechanics Institute. Unless ITT has a course, or some other trade school.

[smooth operator]

I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts?  But if you want to borrow a torque wrench, I can meet you in Frenchtown some Saturday or Sunday soon and lend you one.  You can probably do the headbolts right there if you know what the torque specs are.  I can bring a few extensions if you're having trouble reaching some of the bolts.  I live near Philadelphia and its a nice ride for me.

  I never had much faith in work done at the dealer. I don't think they adjusted the valves on mine when it was new @ 600 mile check-up(98).And if there are 2 bolts that are hard to get to,I'd bet on them not getting to them either.At least when you do it yourself,you know its done.
   And it would be a good idea to borrow that torque wrench,you don't want to snap one of those off!  Dan

[banditone1250s]

I did indeed avoid that $200.00 oil change. I changed it myself. Man let me tell you it was a bugger keeping oil off that header once the oil filter was removed. If I had thought about it ahead of time I would of used some sort of small tray or something but what a mess it was. I ended up "burning" most of it off by just letting it run for a few minutes till it was all gone. It was also a bugger getting that oil filter out from between the header. The manual says to squeeze it buy the radiator hose. Yeah right....Squeeze it is right too!!!!! Any way, all is well now and the oil got changed early (about 500 miles). If any body in here has a better way, please let me know. Now I am paying attention.. Banditone1250s...

[stormi]

For the oil on the headers problem, use a plastic garbage bag, or similar.  It will form to the header shape, and it will hold anything you spill.  

Of course if your headers are good and hot,.. maybe not such a good idea. ;)

[chupacabra]

You can use metal foil, just wrap it from the bottom around and back down. Oil spills on it and then just pull it off.

[banditone1250s]

Chupacabra; That was an excellent idea. The tin foil I mean. I thought after I thought about some sort of tray, but hell even if that kept the oil off the header, it would still be mighty hard to get it out of there without spilling it. Thanks for the tip... Banditone1250s...

[Camurano2]

Changed the oil,
Draining the oil was easy, getting the filter of was a bear.  

Did anyone notice the factory filter tells you to turn the filter twice after contact with the o-ring. (2 complete turns ?) Apparently the factory felt to.
I don't think so.

I had to use a O MY GOD strap wrench to get it off.

The factory guys told me that they let it drain on the header and then use 2 cans on electrical contact cleaner for the header.  NOT. Know wonder its $200.00

Some cardboard from a six pack and a oil diaper, kept it clean.

Back on the road

[Red01]

Did anyone notice the factory filter tells you to turn the filter twice after contact with the o-ring. (2 complete turns ?) Apparently the factory felt to.
I don't think so.

They tell you the same thing on the old 1200, too.