Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 650 and 1250 - WATER COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: billincnetraljersey on May 10, 2007, 12:38:30 AM
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Per user manual maintainence schedule, The exhaust header bolts are to be check for tightness. I don't have a torque wrench so I just turned each bolt by a tiny bit, less than 30 degrees.
I managed to get to all the bolts except the top bolts at the middle 2 cylinder. I even removed the bottom bolt that holds the radiator. The radiator swings forward a bit but I still cannot get to the header bolts.
Any suggestions?
-bill
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I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts? But if you want to borrow a torque wrench, I can meet you in Frenchtown some Saturday or Sunday soon and lend you one. You can probably do the headbolts right there if you know what the torque specs are. I can bring a few extensions if you're having trouble reaching some of the bolts. I live near Philadelphia and its a nice ride for me.
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As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes,
For us Americans, thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, there's no reason to take it to the dealer for service for warranty purposes. All you need to do is keep records and receipts to prove you (or a shop of your choice) did the scheduled maintenance. This same act protects you from being denied a warranty claim if you've modified your bike and have problems not related to your mods.
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The manual only mentioned oil change and check chain tension at 600 miles. AND check all the chassis nuts and bolts. Is there more I need to do? I want to avoid the $200 oil change.
-bill
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Thanks Frisk,
I can get hold of a torque wrench if need be. My problem is trying to get to the top header bolts at the 2 middle cylinders, without having to remove the radiator. Don't want to open "another project". I always find forum people have the most innovative ideas and tricks.
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As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes,
For us Americans, thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, there's no reason to take it to the dealer for service for warranty purposes. All you need to do is keep records and receipts to prove you (or a shop of your choice) did the scheduled maintenance. This same act protects you from being denied a warranty claim if you've modified your bike and have problems not related to your mods.
Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)
I haven't done my header bolts yet, I still have one arm in a sling... if you guys have any good tips I'm paying attention. :bigok:
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Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)
Is there even a m/c equivalent to ASE? I wouldn't have gone there anyway. I'd show them my A&P license. :bandit:
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Exactly. And if they wanna dispute my work, or my records, I can just show them my A.S.E. Master Mechanic certifications. (Red, let me save you pointing out that it's an automotive cerification... I know that, thank you.)
Is there even a m/c equivalent to ASE? I wouldn't have gone there anyway. I'd show them my A&P license. :bandit:
There ya go... if you're qualified for aircraft I guess you can work on motorcycles, aye? :bigok:
That's a good question. The only motorcycle certification I know of is a diploma from MMI... Motorcycle Mechanics Institute. Unless ITT has a course, or some other trade school.
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I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts? But if you want to borrow a torque wrench, I can meet you in Frenchtown some Saturday or Sunday soon and lend you one. You can probably do the headbolts right there if you know what the torque specs are. I can bring a few extensions if you're having trouble reaching some of the bolts. I live near Philadelphia and its a nice ride for me.
I never had much faith in work done at the dealer. I don't think they adjusted the valves on mine when it was new @ 600 mile check-up(98).And if there are 2 bolts that are hard to get to,I'd bet on them not getting to them either.At least when you do it yourself,you know its done.
And it would be a good idea to borrow that torque wrench,you don't want to snap one of those off! Dan
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I did indeed avoid that $200.00 oil change. I changed it myself. Man let me tell you it was a bugger keeping oil off that header once the oil filter was removed. If I had thought about it ahead of time I would of used some sort of small tray or something but what a mess it was. I ended up "burning" most of it off by just letting it run for a few minutes till it was all gone. It was also a bugger getting that oil filter out from between the header. The manual says to squeeze it buy the radiator hose. Yeah right....Squeeze it is right too!!!!! Any way, all is well now and the oil got changed early (about 500 miles). If any body in here has a better way, please let me know. Now I am paying attention.. Banditone1250s...
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For the oil on the headers problem, use a plastic garbage bag, or similar. It will form to the header shape, and it will hold anything you spill.
Of course if your headers are good and hot,.. maybe not such a good idea. ;)
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You can use metal foil, just wrap it from the bottom around and back down. Oil spills on it and then just pull it off.
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Chupacabra; That was an excellent idea. The tin foil I mean. I thought after I thought about some sort of tray, but hell even if that kept the oil off the header, it would still be mighty hard to get it out of there without spilling it. Thanks for the tip... Banditone1250s...
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Changed the oil,
Draining the oil was easy, getting the filter of was a bear. :taz:
Did anyone notice the factory filter tells you to turn the filter twice after contact with the o-ring. (2 complete turns ?) Apparently the factory felt to.
I don't think so.
I had to use a O MY GOD strap wrench to get it off.
The factory guys told me that they let it drain on the header and then use 2 cans on electrical contact cleaner for the header. :duh: NOT. Know wonder its $200.00
Some cardboard from a six pack and a oil diaper, kept it clean. :bandit:
Back on the road
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Did anyone notice the factory filter tells you to turn the filter twice after contact with the o-ring. (2 complete turns ?) Apparently the factory felt to.
I don't think so.
They tell you the same thing on the old 1200, too.
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I had to use a O MY GOD strap wrench to get it off.
Ha.. I didn't have a strap or wrench that'd fit that filter... but I did have a filter with about 6 screwdriver holes punched in it by the time I was done. :duh:
At least I know I won't have to resort to that again... I won't be wrenching it on that tight... The foil trick worked great too.
trey
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I just tightened my exhaust bolts, I removed the mounting bolts for the radiator and lifted it up abit and was able to get at the bolts with a long extension and a flex socket. I'm sure it would throw the torque reading out the window but at least i know they're tight.
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I bought the standard Suzuki oil filter removing tool with the bike which is much easier than a chain wrench - cost equivalent to $16. I change the oil every 1250 miles - something that's stayed with me since owning Hondas in the early 70s. Took my 1250S back to the dealer for the first service at 400 miles (oil was black as hell) having negotiated at sale that they would provide the labour for free so only paid for oil and filter. I've used them for years, they know what they're doing and the bike was much smoother and everything had been carefully lubed, ran slicker and properly torqued down so was happy to do it.
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I just use a pair of channel locks to reach in and get it broke lose and off it come by hand followed by a hand tightening to about 3/4 turn tight. I also use the older B1200 oil filters as they are about half the price then those listed for the B1250 yet identical except for the part number change.
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Oil filters are cheap even in Finland --about 5-8$.
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For myself, I do/do tighten the filter as per the factory recommendations....2 full turns after gasket first contacts the block.
If you noticed, the threads are quite fine compared to a "normal" filter so you probably need the 2 full turns to make a decent seal. My .02...
As to the oil on the header thing: I let it drain off as much as possible and then take an old oily t-shirt I keep around just for wiping the header down. Then a paper towel lightly moistened with solvent to get the remainder of the oil off, a final wipedown with a clean paper towel and I'm good to go. You've gotta start the engine to fill the filter and check it for leaks and to make sure the oil is circulating properly anyways....and this will burn off any residual oil and/or solvent. Stinks for about 3 - 5 minutes....but I know my header will never rust out. :grin:
Lastly: the first special tool I bought for my bike was the proper filter "socket" that fits over the top of the filter itself. On my 3G it's quite easy to get a 3/8" ratchet AND the filter "socket" in behind the header and on to the top of the filter. Gloves are recommended....just in case the header is still a little toasty when you attempt this. The filter "socket" was made by Imperial Eastman and it's their part #IF-6814. I bought it through work but I think they only retail at something like ~$15 which is cheap for a tool that saves so much time and aggro, IMO.
I'm not sure if you 4G 1250 guys can get use a ratchet/"filter socket" combo as easily on your engines but I can't imagine Suzuki would make it THAT difficult to remove the filter. I'd like to think they're not THAT dumb......
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I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts?
You "really" think the dealer go's around looking for loose bolts in that $200.00 glorified oil change?? They don't even "prep" the bikes right most of the time!
When I brought my 1250 home from the dealer the front tire psi was 22 lbs and the rear was 28!! The Coolant was also very low.
Same thing when I bought my last new Kawasaki........the chain was so tight I was pissed and called the dealer to let them know.....also very low tire pressure, low coolant ect.....