Break in procedure

[slug]

Hi there, I just got a new 1250 bandit a couple days ago but the dealer could not find the owners manual.
Is there somewhere i can download a copy of the owners manual?
Also I would like to download the service manual as well if possible.

The part I'm most interested in at the moment is the break in procedure if anyone wishes to let me know what it says in the owners manual.
So far the bike seems really nice and I think it's gonna be a fun ride.

[txbanditrydr]

Other than keeping the RPM's below 5,500 for a set number of miles I don't think there's much to it.  Some folks say ride it like your gonna ride it - still others say ride it like you stole it... get the rings seated or such.

The 1250 guys should be along shortly. 

BTW....    to the site - glad you found us.

[rhithyn]

Welcome Slug!

From what I was told, the break-in is already done in the factory, it's more for you to adjust to the bike.  That being said, the manual says to keep it below 4500 RPM and vary the RPM up to the first service (1000 kms or 600 miles)...

I'd really harass the dealer for that manual... they should include it if it's new or at least be able to get one in for you.  You DID buy the bike from them after all and you can't exactly honor a warranty that you don't have the details for.

[slug]

The dealer is getting me a manual but it will probably take a week or two.
Did the manual say anything about the procedure from 1000km to 2000km?
I think my b-king was not supposed to be run above 7000rpm till after 2000km.

[rhithyn]

Yes, it does say something about keeping it under 7500 RPM for the next bit (1800 kms I believe).  The more I think about it, I think the km ranges were 800/1600 as I remember approaching the 1000 km service and realizing I was already past my first part of the breakin period...  I'll check my manual tomorrow morning and double-check it for you...

[slug]

Thanks.
I appreciate it.

[rhithyn]

K, According to the manual for my 2010 GSX1250FA, it says the break-in period is under 4500 RPM for the first 800 kms (500 miles), 7000 RPM to 1600 kms (1000 miles) and then 9500 RPM (redline) after that.  Also to vary the engine speed as much as possible for the first 1600 kms.

That and your 1000 kms dealer service to keep the warranty. 

[slug]

Thanks a bunch.
I'll be doing 1000km service myself though.
Too many horror stories about the local dealer.

[Voided76]

From what I've gathered from race engine builders,  and guys who generally know what in the world is going on,  you let the bike get real good and hot,  then take it out,  and roll up to 5500 or whatever a few times,  in the span of 10 minutes, then roll it up to 7500 at half,  then full throttle,  then give it a little break,  then give it a few slow rolls up towards redline,  then give it a break,  then beat the daylights outta it to redline a few times,  then CHANGE THAT OIL,  and it's supposed to be broken in and seated.

Too many squids get them off the showroom and beat them for 10,000 miles after,  for the breakin to Have to be so gentle,  I think.

A lot of builders will say,  those rings will seat properly,  or in some cases NOT,  (and this seems to be important) in 50 miles or less.  and that seems to be the way to ensure they get a real good seat as the cyl walls break in and all that happens,  and get the oil out,  before anything gets weird. 

I've also heard to use conventional for the first few thousand miles after that,  then switch to synthetic if that's your cup of tea.

Cheers.  It's good to find a 650/1250 forum,  since GSX650F.biz exploded yesterday :(

This's my first post,  and hello!

[Red01]

They are NOT broken in at the factory.  They are test run through the gears on a roller briefly to make sure they run and everything works, but that's hardly a break-in.

You can't go wrong breaking in per the manual, that's what they are basing their warranty off of.  I feel it is pretty conservative and I break mine in harder than that, but not as hard as a race engine builder would do.  After all, race engines aren't expected to last for 100,000+ miles.  I pretty much follow the book, except I will run it hard through the gears once or twice each time It's ridden.  I think it is most important not to run at constant rpm for long periods of time or overheat the engine in these early times.  My method has worked well for me over the years and my B12 now has >50,000 miles and still has no oil consuption or other issues.

[banditv]

if you have a good dyno tuning place in town, go there and get them to run in the motor on the dyno.
they'll do it in bout 2 hours or less. its a great way to do it, since they can control the load very precisely and keep a better eye on temps and mixtures. i watched a gixxer thou done in an hour and a half including an oil change.
if not, go for a ride in the hills, dont let the motor labor and dont rev the shit out of it.
spend your time going up and down the revs with out going to low or to high, so the mid range is the best.
it'll be good and worn in after a few hundred miles, so thats when you do an oil and filter.
stick to mineral oil til the first 2 changes, then switch to what ever you normally run.

[rider123]

Red's got it right don't go completely jihad for the first 800 kms or so but don't lightly putt around just above idle either. You should give it some hard acceleration a few times each hour to make sure the rings get seated properly or you will have oil blow by. Just keep an eye on the temps and maybe go for a smoke break every hour for ten minutes to let the engine cool.

I would use just run of the mill 10w-40 oil for the break in. First of all it's just going to be dumped out in short order. In fact I did an oil change at 200 kms 500 kms then at 1000kms I got sythetic put in at the dealer checkup(Which is not much more than a bolt turning and an oil change). Also if you put synthetic in at the begining your just going to make it that much harder for the break in. Alot of guys love to put synthetic in at the beginning but its a mistake. The surfaces need to be worn smooth and making it more slippery inside won't help.

I think the myth of new bikes are "broken in" during the factory is now most new bikes have an electroplating procedure done to the walls of the cylinder now to smooth them up and make them last longer. This is NOT a break in. I think dealers are getting confused to what a break in really is. THey probably see the video of the bikes roll off the factory floor get test quickly on a dyno for a few mins to make sure the bike runs and power is within spec and assume that is it.

Also the manual break in procedure is conservative for liability reasons. Imagine if they put in the manual "Ride it like you stole it for a few times each hour to ensure proper seating of the piston rings." They basically put in what they think will be least likely to break so they don't have to spend factory money fixing the bike when things go wrong. Even if you screw it all up and putt around lightly and get horrid oil blow by, etc. THe bike will still run so they are off the hook because the bike is officially "running" but it won't have maximum power and will be eating oil slightly. Eventually after 10,000 kms or so it will even out enough that you wouldn't notice that much anymore.

Imagine all the court cases for speeding with the defence "Well in the manual it told me to go crazy for a couple of times each hour due to break in procedures your honor" Imaging the lawsuits! So don't fret to much about not following the manual exactly.