Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 650 and 1250 - WATER COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: waz on April 21, 2008, 10:14:36 AM
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I've got a '07 1250 w/ 850 miles on it and I have noticed a problem that is interfering with my enjoyment of riding it.
The problem is this: as I'm decelerating with the throttle closed in any gear, the bike bucks or jumps or shudders. If I pull in the clutch or give it a little throttle, it stops. It's definitely in the drive train somewhere, either in the engine fuel management, chain, or sprockets.
I think it has done this since it was new, but it seems to be getting worse.
I had a '01 1200, and it did not do this, nor has any other bike I have owned.
Anybody else's do this? Any ideas on what might be causing it?
I haven't taken it to the stealer yet because I'm pretty sure they'll say they don't notice any problem or that its normal for fuel injected bikes or some such. :roll:
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Chain might be set too tight??? Mine has not done this, but on my 05 I set the chain too tight and it acted like that. Chain may have nothing to do with it but I would check it just to rule it out. Keep us posted.
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My bike got too little fuel when it was new.
+5% more fuel in low rr helped.
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I haven't noticed this problem with my 1250. I would say though that you are on the right track. One good way to determine what it might be is can you replicate it. Does it happen at the same RPM's or just any time you let off the throttle?
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I was getting this on my 1250.
I do have it modified with a TFI unit and it was showing some significant torsional vibration during decelleration as it passed thru 2000 to 1500 rpm. i.e. it was banging the chain around like crazy. No problems on accel at any rpm.
The cure seems to be reducing the amount of fuel being added by the TFI. I had it set to 3 o'clock on the idle dial and reduced it to 2 o'clock and the vibes have 95% dissapeared. This also had the effect of improving mpg from 42 to 46 mpg.
Interestingly this problem took quite a few months to show itself after I originally set the TFI unit, but the fix was noticeable right away. I'm wondering if the cat converter is/was getting a bit loaded up with unburnt fuel.
At first I thought it was the chain being loose or something, so I adjusted it (the hard way) and was able to eliminate that as a cause to the problem.
WAZ has a stock bike, so I'm not sure what is causing his issue, but when I posted this on "another site" I did get replies from a couple of people saying this was common??? Which is odd as I've never experienced this type of vibration on any of the bikes I've owned (dating back to 1971)
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weird. With 3000 miles I haven't noticed anything like that except a noticeable increase in power and performance after 2000 miles. I brake my bike in old school slow and easy, fast heavy load brake in comes from the race community that need to brake in an engine quickly for track use but in my book not ideal. Other then that after brake in (500 miles) I use premium race oil. The only time I have seen something like that happen is when forgetting to down shift and lugging the engine, the engine in almost any bike will buck the chain. Remember down shift at slower speeds and up shift at higher speeds, and don't lug the engine.
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
I think that this problem really became noticable after I had the 600 mile service done. Is it possible that they messed with the FI settings? or the throttle cable play?
Like RichB's, mine does this at relatively low rpm - like below 2000.
And Gunner, I don't think it's possible to lug an engine when you are off the gas completely, so that's not it. And besides, it does it while decelerating in any gear.
ippo: forgive the ignorance, but what's "low rr"???
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
I think that this problem really became noticable after I had the 600 mile service done. Is it possible that they messed with the FI settings? or the throttle cable play?
Anything the stealership does is possible.
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Low rr" and lugging. Just letting you know one on the obvious causes, aside from that the dealer may have defiantly played a role. The few times I took my vehicle's to the dealer, in 30 years more often then not the outcome was disappointing and expensive. As a consequence the only things I have serviced on any of my vehicle's is tire mounting.
Thanks for the replies, guys.
Gunner, I don't think it's possible to lug an engine when you are off the gas completely, so that's not it. And besides, it does it while decelerating in any gear.
ippo: forgive the ignorance, but what's "low rr"???
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"ippo: forgive the ignorance, but what's "low rr"???
Less than 3000r/min
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My 07 is stock.......no issues as you describe.
If you didn't notice it untill AFTER the 600 mile service I'd bet it's a dealer issue.
Keep us posted as to what happens......and Good Luck.
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Waz reported the problem about two months ago on this thread - we've no idea what the outcome was or whether this is still ongoing. :annoy:
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Like suspected probubly in the learning stage and lugging the engine in tall gears something we have all experienced in the learning curve but don't like to comment on, much less admit.
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Like suspected probubly in the learning stage and lugging the engine in tall gears something we have all experienced in the learning curve but don't like to comment on, much less admit.
Nope. I started riding in 1974 and had a motorcycle endorsement on my license since I was 16 (I'm about to hit the big 5-0) and have been riding ever since.
C'mon, gimme a break here. I have ridden just about forever and I only buy manual tranny cars, so I think I know what lugging an engine is all about.
Like I said, this only occurs when completely off throttle and decelerating below 3000 rpms. It definitely is an injection issue.
I've got about 3k miles on it now and it seems to have gotten better (either that or I've learned to live with it by feathering the clutch).
I'm pretty convinced that the dealer "adjusted" the FI and screwed it up.
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Wasn't 100% sure which thread to put this and this looked the best so if I'm wrong (first timer on this board) please feel free to move etc.
My 08 Bandit is in for it's first service at 1000 kms (Aussie) I've had ridability probs since day one.
My symtoms where (are) in the top 3 gears 4, 5 and 6) with 3000 rpm or over on the taco the bike pops, farts and generally doesn't ride nice. I've also noticed that in the top 3 gears it will back fire quite a lot while cruising. Sound kinda like a relay switching. I've even had it do a "faster, slower, faster" thing without any input at the throttle. IN 1, 2 and 3rd gear it's fine at any rev. At 3-3500 rpm it's not perfectly smooth, but it's better.
My stealer tells me (and I think I read it somewhere on a forum about bandits) that gear 1, 2 and 3 retard the ignition and in 4, 5 and 6 the ignition is either back to "standard" or advanced a bit.
To me the bike sounds as if the timing is advancing way too far when I change to 4th (and up).
I'm wondering if anyone has looked into "tricking" the ECU into thinking it is still in a lower gear (eg 3rd) and seeing if that improves ridability.
My bike is having the TB's synced and the TPS adjusted properly under warranty while it's in for a service. They also said that they would look for and fix anything else while it was there. Estimated total cost of service (1st one) $150 at the worst.
I'll let you know what the outcome is when I get it back tomorrow afternoon.
cheers
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Well to be honest if you can't do basic diagnostics yourself to determine what might be wrong, your basically at the mercy of the dealer who may be honest as the day is long or taking advantage of your situation for some needed earnings. Personally I do know a bit about engine diagnostics and unfortunately 75% of the time the dealer tried to pull a fast one on me. Just my experience others might be different, but one thing is for sure you wont really know until you learn to diagnose your own bike as this could be anything from a lose spark plug wire to an air box hose that came loose. Most B1250 and B1200 owner who know how to diagnose using the manual have usually found a simple cause to be the problem. So unless we hear of allot of similar cases occurring like dashboards melting or bike parts unexpectedly falling off for no reason, I think you just need to crack the service manual and learn a few basics so you can have a better idea and better describe what is wrong to the dealer so he knows that you know your stuff and fixes it accordingly.
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Unfortunately O'Gunner is right. You need to go into the dealer basically telling him what you think is wrong and what you've done so far to isolate it. That smacks him with a clue bat that maybe you might be able see past his phony-ness and keeps him a little more honest.
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problem could be in the PAIR system also
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I take it a step farther,I want to talk to the tech. thats working on my bike. And tell him where I'm at with it. My Bandit is a 1st gen,so that bike doesn't go to the dealer. But I did take the SV in a year ago,I was changing the case on the water pump side. Was busy with work and brought it in with the fairing already off. Coolant was aleady drained, A NO OIL was marked on a pc. of tape by the key. He just had to set the bearing for the impellar for the water pump and put it back together. Unfortunatly, he didn't set the bearing correctly, so the whole thing had to be done over again.(on this own dime)