Author Topic: Tightening the 1250 chain  (Read 13679 times)

Offline physics-teacher

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Tightening the 1250 chain
« on: December 16, 2009, 07:21:19 PM »
I found that after tightening the 1250 chain to the proper slack with the bike on the centerstand, when I tightened the axle nut the twisting action pulled the tire back and tightened the chain to dead tight, a very unwelcome situation.  After fooling around trying to hit the tire back in place with a rubber hammer while tightening the axle nut, I found a much simpler (and probably obvious) solution.  Just adjust the chain with the bike on the sidestand.  The weight of the bike keeps the tire from sliding back and the chain from going overtight when you tighten that nut.
1981 GS650G
2004 Yam XT225
2009 Bandit 1250S
1992 GSF 400

Offline LowRyter

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2009, 08:19:27 PM »
That's pretty common for the chain to tighten when you tighten the axle nut.  When you do it a few times you'll compensate when working on the center stand.  I think the owner's book mentions that you should do it on the sidestand (1998 B12).

Anyway....my take. Put it on the center stand.  Rotate the wheel until you find the tight spot in the chain.  Adjust the chain until you have 3/4 inch play on the tight spot.  Tightened it.  Put it on the ground, and check the play. Make sure it's not too tight.  If so, readjust.  I've never had to use a rubber hammer, usually after shaking and rotating the wheel should loosen up. 

Once you get the hang of it, you will probably get it right, first try.  Remember more chains have been ruined by over adjustment than by no adjustment.  If you have a factory chain, it will probably be toast in 10k miles anyway.  Get a good O ring chain (like an EK brand).  After break in, you may never have to adjust it until you install a new rear tire.

 
John L

1998 Red Suzuki GSF-1200S
1998 Red & Cream Moto Guzzi V11 EV
2001 Greenie Moto Guzzi V11 Sport

Offline Vlad

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2009, 12:48:30 PM »
Just stick a rug between the chain an the rear sprocket (on the lower side) while tightening the nut.

On another note, the chain gets (much) tighter when the bike is under load as opposed to being on the center stand. Make sure you check your slack while sitting on the bike (no kick stand or center stand) - too loose is considerably less dangerous than too tight.
Vlad lives in Toronto, Canada and rides http://bandit.xxc.cc

Offline aussiebandit

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2009, 11:14:43 PM »
Years ago, just after I bought my first bike, I took it to the local Bike Tyre shop to get new tyres fitted.

When he put the wheel back on the bike he put the handle of a screw driver between the chain and the sprocket, and put his hand on the chain as he tightened the axle nut.  Seemed to work fine, so that's what I've been doing ever since.
AUSSIEBANDIT (MICK)
02B12

"Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool"

Offline Bandit1250

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2010, 04:01:41 AM »
  If you have a factory chain, it will probably be toast in 10k miles anyway. 

Not if you take care of them.

Todays stock chains are high quality, my last 2 new bikes were sold with 25,000 and 20,000 miles on them and the chains were still godd.
Past Pleasures....all memories
2006 Triumph Sprint ST1050
2004 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
1984 Honda V651100 Sabre
1986 Kawaski Vulcan 750N
1982 Suzuki GS750EZ
1974 Suzuki GT380 2 stroke street

Offline Vlad

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2010, 10:47:38 AM »
Speaking of maintenance and longevity, I just took my chain off after 42,000Km of hard riding. I expected it to be pretty much at the end of life (have a new one ready), but after I washed it I found out that it's still well under what Haynes manual prescribes as the "stretch limit" (31.9cm in 21). Not only that, but it's visually indistinguishable from the piece of the same chain I cut off to make it the right length before installation. The pin from the master link (the one you need to push out to remove the chain) is not worn or pitted at all - it's barely polished on one side. The O rings are in perfect shape too. The only component of the entire system that shows any signs of wear is the front sprocket, but even it would be fine if I just turned it around. If I didn't know, I would swear that this chain has no more than 10,000Km on it, and if I didn't already have a new one I'd put it right back in for at least another 10,000Km.

Chain: 530 D.I.D. ZVM2
Sprockets: steel AFAM
Maintenance: Lubed exclusively with Dupont Teflon multi-use lubricant. Cleaned only once in 42,000Km. Adjusted only at rear tire change (10-15,000Km).

Damn, I must be doing something (very) right! :)
Vlad lives in Toronto, Canada and rides http://bandit.xxc.cc

Offline Rotten Ronnie

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Re: Tightening the 1250 chain
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2010, 07:18:02 PM »
You're using a top of the line chain, the DID VM2 and perhaps the best lubricant going.

Once I learned how to wheelie my GSF600s the chains were toast and I was lucky to get 20,000 km on them.

Bikes I haven't managed to destroy yet:

2004 Kawasaki KLR 685 (the biggest problem with this bike is the loose nut between the bar ends)
2001 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
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