Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 650 and 1250 - WATER COOLED TECHNICAL => Topic started by: physics-teacher on December 16, 2009, 07:21:19 PM
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I found that after tightening the 1250 chain to the proper slack with the bike on the centerstand, when I tightened the axle nut the twisting action pulled the tire back and tightened the chain to dead tight, a very unwelcome situation. After fooling around trying to hit the tire back in place with a rubber hammer while tightening the axle nut, I found a much simpler (and probably obvious) solution. Just adjust the chain with the bike on the sidestand. The weight of the bike keeps the tire from sliding back and the chain from going overtight when you tighten that nut.
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That's pretty common for the chain to tighten when you tighten the axle nut. When you do it a few times you'll compensate when working on the center stand. I think the owner's book mentions that you should do it on the sidestand (1998 B12).
Anyway....my take. Put it on the center stand. Rotate the wheel until you find the tight spot in the chain. Adjust the chain until you have 3/4 inch play on the tight spot. Tightened it. Put it on the ground, and check the play. Make sure it's not too tight. If so, readjust. I've never had to use a rubber hammer, usually after shaking and rotating the wheel should loosen up.
Once you get the hang of it, you will probably get it right, first try. Remember more chains have been ruined by over adjustment than by no adjustment. If you have a factory chain, it will probably be toast in 10k miles anyway. Get a good O ring chain (like an EK brand). After break in, you may never have to adjust it until you install a new rear tire.
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Just stick a rug between the chain an the rear sprocket (on the lower side) while tightening the nut.
On another note, the chain gets (much) tighter when the bike is under load as opposed to being on the center stand. Make sure you check your slack while sitting on the bike (no kick stand or center stand) - too loose is considerably less dangerous than too tight.
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Years ago, just after I bought my first bike, I took it to the local Bike Tyre shop to get new tyres fitted.
When he put the wheel back on the bike he put the handle of a screw driver between the chain and the sprocket, and put his hand on the chain as he tightened the axle nut. Seemed to work fine, so that's what I've been doing ever since.
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If you have a factory chain, it will probably be toast in 10k miles anyway.
Not if you take care of them.
Todays stock chains are high quality, my last 2 new bikes were sold with 25,000 and 20,000 miles on them and the chains were still godd.
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Speaking of maintenance and longevity, I just took my chain off after 42,000Km of hard riding. I expected it to be pretty much at the end of life (have a new one ready), but after I washed it I found out that it's still well under what Haynes manual prescribes as the "stretch limit" (31.9cm in 21). Not only that, but it's visually indistinguishable from the piece of the same chain I cut off to make it the right length before installation. The pin from the master link (the one you need to push out to remove the chain) is not worn or pitted at all - it's barely polished on one side. The O rings are in perfect shape too. The only component of the entire system that shows any signs of wear is the front sprocket, but even it would be fine if I just turned it around. If I didn't know, I would swear that this chain has no more than 10,000Km on it, and if I didn't already have a new one I'd put it right back in for at least another 10,000Km.
Chain: 530 D.I.D. ZVM2
Sprockets: steel AFAM
Maintenance: Lubed exclusively with Dupont Teflon multi-use lubricant. Cleaned only once in 42,000Km. Adjusted only at rear tire change (10-15,000Km).
Damn, I must be doing something (very) right! :)
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You're using a top of the line chain, the DID VM2 and perhaps the best lubricant going.
Once I learned how to wheelie my GSF600s the chains were toast and I was lucky to get 20,000 km on them.