Stock suspension settings for big boy (occasional 2-up)

[Desolation Angel]

Someone told me something and wondered if you think it sounds about right.  I have no idea.  May be dumb advice.  I have an '01 1200.

Regarding my Bandit.  The front end dives quite a bit under moderate to heavy braking.  As far as I know, the front and rear suspension are stock.  Someday I will buy Progressive front springs and rear shock, but not right now.  Someone in conversation suggested that, due to my weight, which is 240, that I likely ought to crank the preload on the front as tight as it will go (and maybe change to a heavier fork oil) and also adjust the rear shock to it's firmest position and max the preload (maybe they said dampening) out on it, as well.  Also, I sometimes ride two-up and don't want to change all my settings every time we go out.  Though that isn't often.

Do these sound like reasonable suggestions, I mean, since I'm not a 120 pound guy and that's who Suzuki supposedly configures their bikes for?

For best performance, what do you think?  Or is this gonna bounce me off like a trampoline?    I thought I'd ask before trying every possible combination of settings...

For one of you with my approximate weight, what have you found to be the best settings (oils) for the stock suspension?

Thanks, guys!

[Red01]

I'm about the same weight as you. I have my forks set in the middle and when I had the OEM shock, I had it set to the stiffest preload. What you should be after in the back, is about 1" of sag between unladen and laden.

[chevsuz12]

I'm about 250 and I set mine as stiff as it would go front and back.

[ray nielsen]

I have a naked 2003 Bandit 1200 and weigh about 340 lb.  

I have the front springs preloaded so that two grooves are showing.  The rear shock is on position 6 of 7 for preload and the damping is on 2 of 4.

I can add saddlebags and gear and I don't need to adjust the suspension.  Bear in mind that the naked Bandits have stiffer springs than the S models.

Hope that helps.

[PeteSC]

Break down and buy the Progessives.  If you install them yourself, you're around $80.  If your fork oil is original, you can tackle that, also.
  With the Progressives installed, you'll get an indication of how much better the bike will be with better suspension, then you can save up for the rear shock.

[slo coach]

with factory front and rear on 2003 1200 i have front and rear set 1 harder than factory,but i learned quickly on N.Z roads which vary a lot that this setting is only suitable for highway type roads or roads similer to a track,which are few an d far between,and the suspension for our roads sjould be set sotfer ,as on back roads when you least expect it ,aand when giving it a handfull.the bike launches itself off bumps aand these bumps throw the bike seriously off line when you dond't need the agro,so i think you should carefully access what type of roads you spend most of your time on before putting any radical settings into the suspension,as in general i'm not that slo ,and i'm going to put mine back to factory right now before i do have a problem on a backroad

cheers      slo coach

[R1szuan]

So May i know for the front fork how to do make adjustment to make it harder?

Do you go clock wise or anti clockwise? As i want to make the front fork stiffer after changing to a heavier oil...


thank you

[aussiebandit]

I'm around 225 (105kg) and have left the front and rear on the stock settings as it came out of the crate.

I did once stiffen up the front but found it a bit too harsh on our shyte roads so put it back to the standard settings.

[oremike]

I'm 250 lbs and ride a sporty pace. I have the stock rear shock set at max for preload and dampining. Race tec gold valves and springs make the front end behave nicely.