Excessive Vibration from front end

[txbanditrydr]

...yet the Mac 100's had the least shake of all (for ma anyway) - go figure.  If the "adjustment" doesn't help I'll either replace them or just hold on to the bars.  

[txbanditrydr]

Well, we (terrebandit & I) finally dug into the steering head bearings... sorta.  Dropped the bars and did the Suzuki factory "initial force" steering adjustment (page 5-27) test.  Could not get any kind of reading on the scale it was so smooth and "loose".  Not loose like wobbly just no resistance to bar movement.  

I used the smallest ball peen hammer and a drift punch to tighten the steering stem nut... it moved very, very easily over a 1/4 rotation.  We kept checking the tension and it was finally starting to register something on the scale.  Kept on tightening until it was in spec (high end of the 7 - 17 oz. range) and yet the steering head/fork assembly was still smooth with no notchiness noted.

Torqued down the steering stem head nut and put it all together.  A final measurement showed the tension got tighter (and now really on the high end) but we decided to leave it.  I also noted that it had more tension one direction than the other - maybe cable routing caused that, not sure.  Next time I'll not get it quite so tight to compensate for the final torquing of the head nut.

Took it out for a little 100 mile romp and WOW... what a huge difference in handling.  Practically all of the headshake is gone.  Several tests were done in the 40 - 55 mph range and I was able to generate headshake in only one condition.  Smooth asphalt headed downhill leaning back slightly caused it twice.  The rest of the time it was rock solid.  There was overall improvement in the bike's handling at other speeds as well.  Everything felt more stable - one has to presume it's similar to installing a steering dampener.

I will put a few hundred more miles on it and recheck the tension.  I may have gone slightly too tight but things are still very smooth.  In reading the factory manual it says to torque the steering stem nut to a specified setting and then back off 1/4 turn.  I would think that will leave the nut fairly tight still which should be tighter than I first found mine.  We were both surprised how easily that nut moved at first.  

Now add to the mix a new 009 Shinko rear tire and things really feel different.  I'm liking the Shinko tire - very grippy feeling and of course with no squared off edges the steering is a LOT quicker feeling.  We also did a valve adjustment - that required no adjustments (yippee)!!!!  I'm all set for a few months of riding!!!!

[chupacabra]

I also tried the same thing and used the same tools. I tighten the steering stem nut just till it felt firm, but then I tested the  movement had bad notchiness. I backed off some but movement was still notchy. Handling is very bad at slow speeds. I have some new bearing sitting right in front of me.

[gearset01]

After about 800 miles on the new shinko 005 I was getting shake on decel from 55 to 40 mphs. " no hands only "  Read all these posts and found the adjustment ring loose from factory, 6500 miles on the bike now. Appears to be several sets of instructions on the proper adjustment of the head bearings. I will say this, even if I left the adjuster loose and tightened the top nut there was no play. I tried all the methods and settled on my own. Loosened adjuster grabbed forks and shook. tightened until all free play was gone.
This didnt require forceful tapping on the adjuster, and movement was just out of the free coasting range. Tightened down the top nut and a little bit of force was needed to move bars no binding.
So far so good sent Jake packing.
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[Daytona]

="gearset01"]After about 800 miles on the new shinko 005 I was getting shake on decel from 55 to 40 mphs. " no hands only "  Read all these posts and found the adjustment ring loose from factory, 6500 miles on the bike now. Appears to be several sets of instructions on the proper adjustment of the head bearings. I will say this, even if I left the adjuster loose and tightened the top nut there was no play. I tried all the methods and settled on my own. Loosened adjuster grabbed forks and shook. tightened until all free play was gone.
This didnt require forceful tapping on the adjuster, and movement was just out of the free coasting range. Tightened down the top nut and a little bit of force was needed to move bars no binding.
So far so good sent Jake packing.
PIN

Up the air pressure, i used 42psi and stopped the uneven wear on the left side of the tire. Shake comes from the choppy wear we get from wide left turns, or too flat a profile of tire on a sport bike rake.Too much tire on the road, happens to any tire if you let the psi get away from you. The steering head or triple brg adj should be as close to no movement in fork leg as possible, but not too tight. If over snugged it will damage the race, or cage of the brg's, plastic in some cases. With no slop, the bars, (with tire off floor) should move from one full turn to another with no help after a little push, or from center to full turn either way. If not slow speed will feel like its fighting you. JMO but been there and done that. 009's is what i had in the shinko's i had over 10k when i traded her!!          

[gearset01]

I tried 42 PSI and everything in between 36 and 42. I dont get it the factory tires I ran at 42 and never had cupping or any problems just shit life. Ive read here that running at 42 isn't a good idea  I guess trial and error is the best way. I should have my factory manual before too much longer. I am really hoping that the head bearings aren't plastic , I will not be happy about that. There is alot of forces there, and thats just cheap. The Shinkos are not cupped the tread looks good but it is wearing slightly more on the left side cause of the crown in the roads here. I am going back to 42 PSI front and rear I liked it on the factory tires. As far as movement of the bars goes a little push and it goes 3/4 of the way. As I mentioned the bars would swing easy until I tightened down the top nut then there was a little resistance, the exploded view isn't as good as a cut away to see whats going on there at assembly.  
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