Naked Conversion for 2001 Bandit 1200S

[Human Potato]

Hi Guys,

I am thinking of getting rid of the fairing on my 2001 B12S and cant find many posts on the subject.  Has anyone out there done this?

As far as I know, I will have to replace the gauges coz the shells dont go all the way round, and also come up with a headlight bracket (with something to attach the indicators to as well).

What I need to know is, what kind of gauges would you recommend?  I have seen "digital" bike computers that look good, but doesnt that cause issues when you want to sell your bike and your original gauges show that you've only done 100 miles in 10 years?  If I go for the more regular style of gauges, what will I have to look out for to ensure they will be compatable?  Know any good online dealers who sell this kind of stuff who ship internationally?

Also, as a point of interest, does removing the fairing reduce helmet buffetting since the air is no longer being directed directly into your face but is instead spread out over your whole upper body?  Is the weight reduction noticeable?

Is this gonna be a big job or something I can knock out with no dramas?  Anybody got any photos?

[bikeb4cage]

Can't speak to what you need to do to make the conversion - But I can comment on the wind blast.  I had a 2000 B6S (fairing) and it kept the wind off my chest/torso, but directed it to my helmet (as you know).  I have a 2001 B12N now, with no fairing.  Up to 80 MPH, there is very little windblast - as you say, it is smoother than the faired bike because the wind is pressing all over (and it's not "dirty" air hitting your helmet).  Above 80 MPH and it starts to push hard - over 100 (race track only of course) it feels as if you might be blown off the back if you let go (slight exaggeration).  I am going to fit an National Cycle F18 windshield to my bike and see if it makes the higher speeds more bearable.  However, for backroads, and at lower speeds - I prefer the fairingless bike's feel and look.

[Red01]

I don't know how easy/hard it would be to find a naked 2G B12 in a salvage yard in Oz, but you can use the housing and upper triple from a 2G naked B12 for a stock naked look.

The weight difference between the N & S model is ~15 pounds - all up front, so I'm guessing it probably would be noticable, but I haven't riden a naked B12, so I can't speak from any experience.

[jeepskate99]

I don't know how easy/hard it would be to find a naked 2G B12 in a salvage yard in Oz, but you can use the housing and upper triple from a 2G naked B12 for a stock naked look.

The weight difference between the N & S model is ~15 pounds - all up front, so I'm guessing it probably would be noticable, but I haven't riden a naked B12, so I can't speak from any experience.

That's what I did.  But bought the stuff from ronayers.  Alot of stuff.

[Human Potato]

The problem I have is that naked bandits were never sold in Australia, so i think iam gonna have to find an alternative way to do it

[wheeliekev]

you need the following from the naked bandit, top yoke, headlight brackets and mounts, headlight, indicators, frame infills, speedo/rev counter backs and front facia, pull the wiring back through the frame as its longer on the s model, should take a couple of hours at most  

[Red01]

The problem I have is that naked bandits were never sold in Australia, so i think iam gonna have to find an alternative way to do it

You can buy parts from the US. (Or any other market where there was a 2G Naked - but to be honest, the US is probably the cheapest market.)

[Cruisecontrol]

The problem I have is that naked bandits were never sold in Australia, so i think iam gonna have to find an alternative way to do it

I converted my 1200S to a naked quite easily. The N version of the guage back can be purchased through your Suzuki dealer (or I can sell you my now unneeded one ). I just made up a bracket for them and bolted them under the top clamp.

Here is my thread with a little more detail:
 http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=3110&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Here it is a little while ago although I am currently running drag bars which look spot-on and feel great.



Any questions just let me know because I have done it from Aust no problems.

[Dazbandit]

I cant see why you need the top yolk and what do you mean by the front fascia

[Red01]

Because on the 2G "S" model, the instruments are mounted in the fairing and on the "N" they mount to the upper triple, so the fascia panels for the clocks are different.

Of course, if you're not going to use the stock clocks, then it doesn't matter on the fascia or the upper triple clamp.

[Dazbandit]

Hmm I thought they were both mounted to a bracket that bolts under the top tripple.And the front facias where the same except for the rear facia.

Thanks for pointing that out.
P.s have you done this before mate  

[Red01]

I have NOT done it. I like my fairing! I'd only consider a naked conversion if the fairing ever got damaged to the point a naked conversion would be a more cost-effective repair.

I have followed the conversions of others as well as studying the illustrated parts catalog for what's needed to do it.

[Jason F.]

I have converted my first gen B6 to a naked setup and back again.

I thought I would like the clean air, look, and feel of the naked version. After living with it for about 6 months I hated it. I am back to the front fairings and am just going to work with the stock screen or some aftermarket version to move the wind blast lower to my chest or higher over my helmet. It hits me right now at the chin bar.

The naked setup was fine at up to about 50mph in no wind. Get a 10 or more mph head or cross wind and it was just plain annoying to ride. Get over 60mph wind or no wind and it was really a pain to ride. I want the wind off my chin bar and neck but I want to be able to cruise comfortably down a highway to get to work or the good twisty roads. I think with a slight attitude adjustment to the stock screen or even some cutting of the stock screen I could tune the air flow to my needs.

[okbandit]

I bought a converted one and have not covered up the underside of the gauges, they are "naked" too.  They bounce a little but not enough to bother me without the plate that covers the void by the clamps.  As for wind blast, above 80 mph it is substantial.  Rain is tough too, but doesn't bother the gauges.  I have an N model with a little fly screen and it maks a big difference, I highly recommend it.  If you need a picture of an N let me know, or a pic of a conversion for that matter.