Author Topic: air filter checking, cleaning (Read 8360 times)

elbandido · « **on:** April 28, 2005, 01:50:59 PM »

hi all, i was wondering how easy is it to check, change or clean the air filter on my 2000 bandit 600, basically how to get to it, in the first place.
would i need the services of a real mechanic, or can a basic wrencher like myself deal with it? i've got the Haynes manual, but looks intimidating to me having to deal with removing the tank and unplugging hoses.
anyone out there have some advice?

tacoman · « **Reply #1 on:** April 28, 2005, 01:58:49 PM »

i'm not sure how much the gen 2 b6 differs from the gen1 but its not too difficult and you can save some $$. At a shop you'll get charged shop rate for labor and you'll have to buy their filter which is about triple of what you'd pay online or at an accessorie store. Tank removal isn't too bad, just take your time and remember what bolts and hoses go where. Have a pad and paper handy and draw yourself pictures. Or, label each individual hose with masking tape so you know where it goes.

onebohemian · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:04:14 PM »

By the way, don't buy an EMGO replacement filter if you can help it. Go suzuki or some other aftermarket (if they exist). I got an EMGO for by 98 b12 last year and the thing doesn't fit into the airbox worth a darn. The plastic rim doesn't line up with the airbox and makes it very difficult to put the lid back on the airbox. Definitely not worth the money I saved.

Mark
Mpls, MN

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #3 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:52:08 PM »

The hardest part is getting the hoses off if they have never been removed. I had to use a small putty knife with a wood backer to pry the hose "loose" - once it started to move things got easier. Before re-attaching the hoses I put some lube on the tank fittings (not the fuel line though - just vent) and slid it on. Some people use ArmourAll - I used silicone lubricant (warning - do not use sealant) and that will make the whole procedure go faster next time.

Red01 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 28, 2005, 04:34:11 PM »

If you've got basic wrenching skills, this job is a piece of cake! Stick with a genuine Suzuki air filter. Besides the ill-fitting EMGO, the only other one I know of is the K&N - and it flows much differently than the stock piece and is not recommended for a totally stock bike.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 28, 2005, 05:22:03 PM »

It's intimidating the first time but it's really easy. Hell, in the 1.5 years I've had my bike (my first), I've had the tank off... oh.... 50 times! Piece of cake. The first couple times, I took dig pics of where everything goes. Good luck.

suprcivic · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2005, 05:30:20 PM »

what do you do with the gas in the tank when you remove it?

ray nielsen · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2005, 05:30:37 PM »

Hifiltro now offers air filters for the 2G 1200 Bandit in the latest Dennis Ikrk catalog. About $15 and it fits perfectly. They may also have them for previous generation bikes -- you can check at <www.denniskirk.com> and then go to Metric bike catalog and find the path to air cleaners, probably under fuel systems.

You can enter your year and model for specific part numbers.

elbandido · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2005, 05:37:55 PM »

good question by suprcivic: what happens to the gas in the tank when you unplug the hoses? will it flow out, or is there some stopper valve i should be aware of.

thanks for all the responses. all of you are giving me more confidence to tackle some of my maintenance issues on my own.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2005, 06:03:33 PM »

Scout out a good location to set the tank before you actually remove it. You want a cushioned spot to prevent scratching the tank and also a couple of wood blocks to keep the petcock off the table. The fuel will not flow out of the tank providing the fuel knob is set to Reserve or On. I always leave mine in the on position. There will be a little fuel in the hose you remove so have a rag handy to catch any spillage.

Red01 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2005, 07:37:17 PM »

As long as the petcock is working properly, "ON" or "RES" will keep it shut off. If I'm in the garage, I set the tank on a wooden workbench or piece of plywood on the floor. If I'm in the driveway, I set it in the grass. You can set it directly down on smooth concrete as long as you're careful and don't bump it while you have it off.
(Had to do this for repair on a trip once.)

B12Teuton · « **Reply #11 on:** April 29, 2005, 10:56:36 AM »

Don't look so happy, Paul.

magicGoose · « **Reply #12 on:** April 29, 2005, 04:22:26 PM »

One other thing which might be obvious to you, it will be a lot easier, especially re-attaching the hoses, if your tank is almost empty, rather than almost full.

Steve · « **Reply #13 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:10:38 PM »

Quote

Don't look so happy, Paul.

I keep telling him to ride the bike WITH the seat. Even though it adds a few pounds it most likely would improve his outlook after a ride.

Oh yeah, the air filter thing.... If you remove the petcock handle and the rear tank retaining bolts, you should be able to lift the tank at the rear, slide it back just a bit and slip a piece of wood under the tank to get it up enough to remove the air filter without taking the tank all the way off. Assuming that you don't need to do anything else under there this will save you a bit of time and hassle.

OH yeah, and put the seat back on before you ride or you might end up looking like....

Steve

Red01 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 29, 2005, 08:24:27 PM »

While I wasn't exactly elated to have to wrench on the bike in the middle of a trip, in 100*F+ weather, the expression was staged.