Best RPM to change up a gear

[salty]

Does anyone have the optimum tacho reading based on peak torque to shift up for the 1200? i'm trying to program a data tool rev light,sad i know but i love toys and gadgets.
Thanks
Salty

[Red01]

Peak torque will depend somewhat on state of tune. For instance, per Holeshot's dyno charts:

Stock peak torque is @ 6000 rpm (peak hp @ 8500 rpm)
Stage I jet kit w/slip-on is @ 6250 rpm (peak hp @ 8250 rpm)
Stage II airbox kit w/slip-on is @ 6000-6250 rpm (peak hp @ 8750 rpm)
Stage II pod kit w/slip-on is @ 6250 rpm (peak hp @ 8250 rpm)
Stage II pod kit w/full header is @ 6250 rpm (peak hp @ 8750 rpm)

More changes than the above will have a greater effect. For instance, Dale's old 1G 1216cc B12 with Holeshot street/strip headwork, GSX-R intake cam/stock exhaust cam, Holeshot header system, stock carbs with stage II pod kit and 5° advancer moved the peak torque up to 7000 rpm (peak hp was @ 9200 rpm).

[Dave 02 1200]

Salty,

These bikes have a fairly flat torque curve so you can shift whenever it suits you based on the situation.  

I am willing to bet that most Bandit 1200 riders only see red line once in a while, unlike our brothers on their GSXRs, because Bandits can be short-shifted and still give good performance.

I might just set the shift light at redline to avoid going too far past redline at the top.

The gadget I would rather have is a good easy to read oil pressure gauge.

Good luck,

Dave

[salty]

Thanks guys, thats just what i was after,i'll set the amber range at max torque, red change at 8500.
Thats a good idea Dave re the oil gauge,i'll look for a combined oil and temp job, next on my shopping list. Any ideas what ranges i need for normal preasures and temps?
Thanks
Salty

[rkfire]

Of course, just as the speedo is optomistic, so are the tachs.

[2005B12S]

If you are riding a fairly stock machine, the B12 is gonna stop pulling before redline. You lose around 10 ponies between 8500rpm and 10,000rpm.

just shift when the power starts to fall off and you won't ever approach redline.

optimum oil temp is between 210-220 degrees. any warmer than 245-250 is cause for concern.

[aussiebandit]

I always find that keeping the revs between 5500 and 7500 provides the most fun for me.   In this range I can accelerate well, but don't need to use the brakes as much when slowin down.  Ofcoarse, this is when I'm having a 'play'.

A round town, or just cruising I usally try and keep the revs around 3000 to 4000 - otherwise I'm speeding.  So at 50kmh I'm in 2nd, at 60kmh I'm in 3rd, 80kmh 4th.  I usually hold 4th until 100kmh.

[Red01]

The oil pump in the B12 is a two stage affair. IIRC, the high pressure/low volume side for primary lube is in the ~70 psi range and the low pressure/high volume side used to cool the top of the cylinder head is in the 30-40 psi range.

[salty]

I think oil pressure sounds too complicated, and i'll proberbly get paranoid, looks like i'll just stick to oil temp, Any ideas on the best place to pick up the oil temp with a thermocouple? iv'e seen these screw in the filler hole things, don't think they are much use, and it would get nicked here in the good old U.K.

[Red01]

There's one of those screw-in-the filler jobs from Germany (available in *F or *C) that's very accurate - within 1%. Doesn't help any with the getting nicked part though.

Daytona International has a digital temp gauge.

You mount the sender here:



(This is someone else's - I don't have one.)

[salty]

Oooh, Now thats Sexy Red01, thats what i was after,i'm sure the filler hole things are accurate, i'm not convinced they measure the oil temp as much as the case temp, plus i'd rather have a head up display by the clocks.
Out of interest, do you know what normally lives in that port where the sender unit is screwd in the photo?
Thanks Red
Salty.

[Red01]

Out of interest, do you know what normally lives in that port where the sender unit is screwd in the photo?

A plug.  

[salty]