buying new battery for my 91' Bandit 400

[huahuafish]

hello everyone, I was wondering if there are any cheaper ways of obtaining a new battery for my 91' Bandit 400...the local shop is charging $80 for a sealed battery

[stormi]

Try a battery shop.  

Where are you located?  I got mine for $60 Cdn, and it was a "Parts Unlimited" Battery at a Kawasaki Dealer, but it would have been about the same price as the one at the battery shop I use for my UPS batteries.

Did you manage to get your service light issue sorted?

[huahuafish]

yea the service light problem was resolved...turn out the clutch was not connected right...but then a butt load of other problems begun once the bike actually started running...

found a battery at local GI Joe's going for $40...that's less than what the Suzuki dealer is charging!!!

that doesn't mean the $40 battery is inferior in anyway...does it?

[stormi]

I don't think it should.  

I remember asking when I bought my battery.  The guy goes, "I have one for $55 and I have one for $100."  So I asked him what the difference was "One's made in japan, one in China"  So told him no no, in performance.  To which he replied "Oh,.. none."  So it was sort of a no- brainer to me.  

I think as long as you take care of it, it should last you several years.  

What other problems manfested once the bike started up?  How was the clutch connected wrong?

[huahuafish]

the clutch was not rubbing on this copper metal piece that was needed for the  electric starter to start...my friend just reveresed it so that I don't hold the clutch in at all now when i start...

other problems....hmmm....well, it still dies (not as often now with new battery) during idle on neutral and in first gear while stopped at a light...also, the drain plug does not fit, and the tank only runs on prime and not on reserve, and the chain is rusty and in need tightening...

that's about it for major problem...then there are little details here and there from stripped paint due to spilled gas and missing screws and on and on and on....

[Farre]

try ebay for Batteries, got a GEL one from Germany cheaper than buying a normal one in my vicinity! Works flawlessly so far!

[interfuse]

I think as long as you take care of it, it should last you several years.

Unless your RR goes!!

[Farre]

ahaaa!! Monsieur is a connoisseur?  

[stormi]

I think as long as you take care of it, it should last you several years.

Unless your RR goes!!

LOL! well,.. yeah,.. assuming the charging system is up to snuff.  

[stormi]

the clutch was not rubbing on this copper metal piece that was needed for the  electric starter to start...my friend just reveresed it so that I don't hold the clutch in at all now when i start...

Ok,.. this piece that your friend reversed, should be replaced.   otherwise, if you get into the habit of starting the bike without holding the clutch in, and leave it in gear one day,...well, you'll likely have another drop under your belt.

Also, when it comes time to sell it, depending on where you are, you can be liable for any accidents that occur resulting from your "kludge".

other problems....hmmm....well, it still dies (not as often now with new battery) during idle on neutral and in first gear while stopped at a light...also, the drain plug does not fit, and the tank only runs on prime and not on reserve, and the chain is rusty and in need tightening...

Ok,.. for the dying, check the charging system, and make sure it's healthy, you can use this diagram:
http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html

Then if everything checks out there, test your coils and your CDI.  ( Have a friend help you out with this if you have any bike knowledgable friends)

The oil pan on that bike can be removed without taking the engine out of the frame.  Take the pan off, and get someone to tap the oil drain plug hole out to the next size, and use a new drain bolt.   This should cost you next to nothing to do, mostly just the cost of a new drain pan gasket, and a small amount of labour.  -If- you choose to do the tapping yourself, make sure it's -straight- or you might as well not have done it.  If the plug doesn't fit right, you can find yourself without oil at the most inopportune times!

Take the petcock assembly out, and see if there's anything inside the little tubes that's blocking them, if not, the petcock may need to be replaced.  Also check the vacuum lines.  the bike requires vaccum to flow gas on reserve or "on".  Make sure the vaccuum lines are on, and not cracked.

Chain lube is your friend.  It will slow the wear of the shain.  Scrub the chain with a brush to get the loose rust off, and buy a can of chain lube.   Use it!

Please tighten that chain too!! If it's loose, it can come off.  If it does that while you're moving, it can lock up the back wheel and throw you, or it may do something like wad up into the countershaft and crack it.  (The very reason a bike near me is being parted out right now.)  Tightening the chain will only take you a couple of minutes with the help of a friend,and it's a safety matter.

According to bike bandit, that countershaft is discontinued, so you don't want to go breaking it.

[huahuafish]

thank you all for replying for help...especially stormi...  

im proud to say i just did my first motorcycle oil filter change...it was harder than i thought because i had to remove the exhaust pipe to get to it...but it was worth the satisfaction..

now the most important thing would be to plug up that oil pan...

i will try to remove the oil pan and get it drilled if i cant find a larger bolt for the hole right now...it's not hard to remove the oil pan right?  and where can i obtain a tap/die set for cheap or find someone who will do it for cheap?  i hesitate to go back to the dealer cuz they're kinda shady <_<

[stormi]

thank you all for replying for help...especially stormi...  

im proud to say i just did my first motorcycle oil filter change...it was harder than i thought because i had to remove the exhaust pipe to get to it...but it was worth the satisfaction..

now the most important thing would be to plug up that oil pan...

i will try to remove the oil pan and get it drilled if i cant find a larger bolt for the hole right now...it's not hard to remove the oil pan right?  and where can i obtain a tap/die set for cheap or find someone who will do it for cheap?  i hesitate to go back to the dealer cuz they're kinda shady <_<

why did you need to remove the exhaust?  It's a little tight in there, but you should be able to accomplish it without removing the pipe.  

Congrats anyway though.  

The pan isn't difficult to remove at all.  Make sure that you get a new seal for the pan when you re-assemble it.    Check the manual for the tightening specs,.. you do have access to a torque wrench right?  This is one of the best tools you can use for a bike.  You will avoid costly repairs from accidentally stripping out low torque parts, and know that the higher torqued parts are on tight enough to prevent loosening or excessive wear.

I don't know where you're located, so I don't know what places you have around you.  

You should be able to buy a tap at many automotive stores (ideally, you'll want it tapped to the next metric size, so you don't need to mix metric and standard tools in your tool kit.), some may even offer the service of tapping it for you.  (possibly for the same or less than the cost of the tap)

Do -NOT- use just a self tapping bolt that's larger.  This will cause you more problems in the end, and evenually, you'll end up having to get it tapped properly anyway.  I've been there.  You might as well do it right the first time.  


Now,.. how's that chain?