Author Topic: 97 bandit wont start? (Read 5778 times)

AirBandit · « **on:** March 09, 2006, 01:03:13 AM »

hey everyoneguys hope somebody out there can help me out i own a 97 bandit 1200 that wont start previously it had some symptoms for quite sometime in which it would give a hard to time to startup i would need to crank it anywhere from 3 to 5 times and could takeup to ten minutes in order for it to start. i know for sure it is not a gas or carb problems and the coils are receiving power but the plugs are not sparking and they are in good condition it seems awkward to me that both coils would go at the same time therfore i belive it could be the cdi but i am not sure, and if it is the cdi is there a way ti fix it instead of spending big bucks thanks

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2006, 10:44:04 AM »

If your coils are getting a signal, you've just ruled the ignition module as OK (it's not a CDI, btw). So far, the B6 & B12 haven't seemed to suffer the "black box" maladies the older, smaller Bandits commonly suffer. Sounds like either your coils are bad or perhaps just the leads.

AirBandit · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2006, 05:08:41 PM »

thanks Red01 for the reply i have some questions how do i go about checking the leads also i disconnected the cdi and the coils stilll receive power so what powers the coils? and what does the cdi power? is it possible for both coils to go at once? im really stuk her if anybody can explain to me or porvide a diagram for a 97 bandit 1200 it is greatly appreciated?

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2006, 05:26:29 PM »

The module gets a signal from the crank trigger, processes that and sends a signal to the coils to fire. The coils get a 12v supply from the bike's electrical system. It's unusual for both coils to fail at once, but not impossible.

To test the leads with no good coil you'll need a tester.
Or just replace them for good measure.
Anothor common weak spot is the ends of the leads where they connect to the spark plug caps, these often break down first. You can trim a little off the ends for a fresh connection between the caps and wires.

Also, check all your electrical connections and be sure they're solid and free of corrosion. I'm a big fan of coating all connectors with dielectric grease for extra insurance of good connections. Also, check the conditions of any grounds, especially where the coils bolt to the frame. If there's corrosion there, sand it off and grease it up before remounting.

AirBandit · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2006, 06:38:09 PM »

i went back to my bike and checked the coils the leads seem to be ok, but they still do not spark nevertheless to be safe i will most likely change them to be safe, but as i was unistalling the coils i noticed 2 orange/white one goes to each coil these 2 wires have power as soon as the key is turned, and then one white wire for coil 1,4 and one black/yellow for coil 2,3 i noticed these wires get there power from the coil and travel to the cdi. are these the wires that tell the coil went to spark? if so is there a way to test the cdi to make sure it is ok, since now i know cdi is being fed its power from the coils instead of vice versa(of course i only speak of one harness of the cdi the other harness with 8 wires i have no idea what they do) once again thank you

rider123 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:17:22 AM »

For me, I had the same symtoms on my GS750EF and I bought a used black box for $50 CDN and it fixed me right up. Have you checked a wreckers to see what it would cost to pop in another black box? Especially if you're plugs are new and leads are sounding ok. You're coils are good. THe bike would rarely just have no spark on all the cylinders. Sounds like the black box to me. If it's cheap to get a used one it might be a good idea to pop in another and see what happens. It's rare but it can happen. Even if a little water gets into that box, its toast.

Red01 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2006, 02:15:25 PM »

I don't know of a shadetree way to check the black box, but those two wires you speak of would be the control wires for the coils. If you don't get any signal readings off those when you're trying to start, then the problem is in the box or the wiring from the signal generator to the box, or the signal generator pickup on the right end of the crank.

Has the bike been dropped on the right side recently?

AirBandit · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2006, 02:35:16 PM »

hey RED01 the bike was dropped on the right side but almost 3 years ago, how do i go about checking the signal genrator on the right end of the crank what does it look like i have the bike apart if you can provide me with a description it would be helpful thanks again everybody

Red01 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2006, 02:41:38 PM »

I'm not that sharp on checking of electronic components, so if there's not obvious damage, I can't really help you out much on testing the pickup, but I can show you where it is.

It's right under Bill's fingertip in this shot.
The thing he's pointing to is the trigger for the pickup.

AirBandit · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2006, 02:57:44 PM »

thanks again Red01 im gonna check it out and ill let you know what is happening

rider123 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2006, 03:46:33 PM »

Yeah same here my electrical knowledge is not so good. Checking wires and plugging in black boxes is about it!

Hope you sort it out, fortunatly there are alot of used parts around for this bike. Good luck!