Carb problem

[ejwan]

I have a 97 Suzuki Bandit, GSF600s (4 cyl, carbs) ran great last year. I put it up last November, put in stabil, new oil and filter, lubed it all up covered it up. Good to go.

Went to start it. No go. The oil level was way high, I didnt remember it being that high when I filled it. Smelled lots of gas. I drained the oil, It was mostly all Gasoline. Must have been over a gallon in there.

I have drained all the oil/gas out. I plan to replaced the oil filter and refill the oil.

Anyone have any ideas about whats going on? What happened? I did notice that the gas tank was empty and the fuel selector was on main. Could the gas have run thru the carbs, into the cylinders, and drained into the oil pan?

A member on the ADV site suggested a stuck float. That sounds about right. My success with working on carbs doesnt give me lots of confidence that I can fix this myself. I plan on trying to run some seafoam thru it hoping that it may help. One site advised rapping on the carbs with  a screwdriver handle (to unstick the float).  If that fails I will have to take it in. If anyone knows a good (competent) Suzuki shop in the Chicago NW burb area please forward it to me.

[txbanditrydr]

Firstly....    to the site - glad you found us.

Your problem sounds like a stuck float or bad petcock - I'd start with those two.  Good luck and keep us updated.

[ejwan]

I'm going with the stuck float theory. After I change the oil, If I can start it and run for a bit I plan to pull the plugs. I figure the wet one will be the stuck float. I'll try to pull the float bowl on that one. I may get lucky and the float my be stuck in some varnish or muck that I can clean. Otherwise its off to the shop.

[billincentraljersey]

Be careful.  Don't try to start that engine!  If there are gasoline in one or more cylinder and any one of the cylinder manage to fire and the engine attempts to turns over, the power generated can crack/break the crank pin or shaft.  If you are lucky, the starter motor will spin the engine and the hydraulic lock caused by the gasoline in the cylinder will stuck the engine and stuck the starter.  Not much can be damage by the stuck starter.

My friend's Kawasaki ZRX petcock seal failed.  The petcock suppose to flow gas when the engine is running and the vacuum generated is fed to the petcock to make the fuel flow.  When the seal failed, the fuel flows with and without the vacuum.

You need a SECOND failure to have the problem that you have.  The float valve getting stuck open.  The float valve works like the toilet water tank.  When the level is sufficiently high, the valve turns the flow off.  If it is stuck open, fuel keeps flowing.

With the petcock seal and the float valve failed, fuel will drain down into the carb and over flow the float bowl and into the cylinder, pass the cylinder rings and into the crankcase.  That is why you see an increase of "oil" level and the gas tank looks low.

Solution:  Drain crank case, fix petcock seal, unstuck float valve, replace wet plugs.

[ejwan]

Well I drained the gas/oil, put on a new oil filter, and refilled the oil. I know the Suzuki has a wet clutch, but now I have no clutch (Well just a very tiny bit). I started and runs.

The engine took the recommended oil. Starts OK. Runs rough, though if a float is stuck, that accounts for the rough.

Whats up with the clutch? When I pull the clutch lever it travels all the way down with no pressure. Did sitting in the gas/oil mixture trash the clutch, or do I have to do something to get oil into the clutch chamber?

As always, thanks for your help.

[r_outsider]

Oh boy. Assuming there's no problem with the cable or linkage or adjustment, you'll probably have to yank the clutch and check it out. Try pulling the cover and see if you can see anything going on.

[pmackie]

Whats up with the clutch? When I pull the clutch lever it travels all the way down with no pressure. Did sitting in the gas/oil mixture trash the clutch, or do I have to do something to get oil into the clutch chamber?

Start with the simple things first...it's not likely a problem with the clutch itself, assuming it was working previously.

1. Check the cable, especially both ends. If there are any broken or frayed wires, then you will need to replace the clutch cable.
2. If the cable is fine, then adjust the "free-play" on both the top and bottom, until you have only approx 1/8" free-play at the lever.
3. Next would be to check the clutch release "ramp" assembly, which lives under the countershaft sprocket cover. Remove the cover, and dismantle, clean and relube the release ramp. While the cover is off, remover the "pushrod" and check it for damage, bends, etc. (This should be done every year or so anyway, to clean off the accumulated mung from chainlube and road grit).

I'll bet your problem is cable related, but let us know what you find out doing the above.