Author Topic: Carburetor Icing  (Read 6255 times)

Offline coolfridge

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Carburetor Icing
« on: January 24, 2006, 05:06:39 AM »
I am having a pig of a problem with very cold mornings riding to work, my Suzuki Bandit GSF 600 (1998), after been riding for 5 to 10 minutes the engine will star to feel like you are on 3 cylinders on low speed and low revs, if I increase the speed the engine will pick up, but as I come to crossroads or traffic lights the engine will die on me.
To stop this happening I need to stop and pull the kill switch wait for 1 minute and then the bike will go all day without a problem.
I have heard about icing on the carburetor, I have check and the heaters on the four carburetor and two of the four do not get hot, and maybe this is the problem but I have discovered in the wiring diagram from Haynes that there is something call carburetor thermo switch and I wonder if you could tell me what it is for and how operates, or better still tell me what do I need to do, any help much appreciated.
Thank you

Offline Red01

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2006, 07:13:14 PM »
AFAIK, carb heaters are a UK feature that most other markets don't get. I know the US models don't. Hopefully, someone will know more about this system, but don't expect a quick response on this one.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline 97RedBird

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2006, 09:34:54 PM »
I have had the same problem lately, but only when it is foggy or raining while being <35 degrees.  I too stopped the bike and water ran out the air box, perhaps a teaspoon dripping down the tube.  After that all is well and the bike ran fine, I also didn't experience anymore problems with icing that day.

A cold day <32 degrees without fog or rain will not cause icing on my 96 B6.
- Nathan
96 B6S

Offline tacoman

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tacoman
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2006, 02:51:46 PM »
Thats an interesting problem.  The only time I've had a carburetor ice up was on an old VW Bug.  It would ice bad.  I'd carry a thermos of hot water and when she died I toss hot water on it to get going again. Of course, the water would freeze and it would stall again.  I've never had an icing problem on my B6 but then again I rarely ride when its that cold.  With all the moisture we have here we get a lot of black ice, not good when you're on two wheels.

Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2006, 08:19:22 PM »
I have a similar problem when it's rainy or foggy. THis is the first bike I've owned that ever had a problem with this. It seems that # 2 cylinder doesn't fire or get gas unless you're above 2500 rpm. Then suddenly it just fixes itself when the carbs get warm. My bike is brand new I hope it doesn't mean trouble in the future. Could it just be condensation getting into the carbs from being run and heating up the carbs then letting them cool down it rainy or foggy weather? Obviously it's a problem if they've installed carb heaters for the UK which is rainy and foggy all the time in the winter. The crazy thing is when you first start the bike and let it warm up a minute or two it runs fine. Only when you get a certain distance does it start to act up. And like other guys here if it's cold but sunny no problems what so ever.

Next time it does it I'll take the airbox drain plug out and see if any water comes out. Maybe when you drive it and park it the airbox will be warm and condensation will form on the inside and not be able to vent properly on the side stand and due to the fact that the stock airbox is fairly enclosed. Start the engine and there is a bunch of water on the inside that eventually gets burned off. Water + air starved airbox = Badness.

If you have a modded airbox there is a lot more holes to vent the condensation out from. Hence no problems with modded boxes. They should have put the airbox drain tube on the left side of the airbox so when you put it on the kick stand the box will be tilted to the left and drain the excess water out. Bad choice Suzuki! I guess you could keep it on the centre stand.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline Red01

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2006, 08:51:19 PM »
If you're getting condensation in the airbox, that could certainly contribute to the problem, but generally the cause is from fuel or fuel and moisute in the air forming ice in the intake tract downstream of the carbs and is caused by the temperature drop from the venturi effect in the carbs. In certain engines, you can get carb icing well above freezing. In fact, it's not uncommon in small planes, and for this reaason, they often have little metal boxes around the carb & manifold to duct hot air from the exhaust to keep them from icing up.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2006, 09:16:41 PM »
I was just going to say that red. Actually if you're just above freezing that is the most chance you'll get icing, rather than below, because the air is warm enough to carry alot of moisture but cold enough that the venturi effect comes into play. I've read that certain venturi effects can flash drop the temperature as much as 33 degrees celcius! You don't have to be at freezing for this to happen. Some people suggest using super unleaded or V-Power(or other propriatary brand) in the wintertime as the additives in the gas supposedly help with flash freezing of water particles. Whether this is true or not I'm not sure but I'll fill up on friday with super unleaded and see what happens for the hell of it. Another idea I have is to sit and let the bike warm up at idle for an extra minute or two. At idle the venturi effect will be lower and you can just wait untill the carbs warm up a bit to take off. I'm going to try that method this week as well. I suppose after the bike is run, the hot tank would allow some water particles to form on the inside of the tank as it cools, this would get worse as your fuel level drops. I wonder if just keeping the tank pretty filled up would help. I opened the tank last night to check the fuel level and I noticed where the air hole was there was some water right by the intake hole. Not much, but even teeny tiny water particles that would normally not affect the bike when warm may cause problems when flash frozen in artifically small pilot jets. The mains seem impervious to freezing.


Perhaps the reason that these bike are more sensitive is maybe due to the artificially small pilot jets they put on these bikes. 15 size pilot is a very small hole. It wouldn't take much to freeze it just enough to starve the engine of fuel. That would explain why above a certain rpm when the mains come on (bigger hole) it runs fine. It would also explain why I've been having a feeling that one of my cylinders has been running lean. IF # 2 was the only one that starved out enough to stop it's obviously leaner than the other 3. I think I'll turn it out a touch and see if that makes everything a little smoother when running normally.

See? Carb icing can help you!!  :grin:


Another point to ponder is that the snorkle is pointed directly at numbers 2 and 3 cylinder so they would freeze first. Fortunatly being on the inside of the bike they will also heat up first as well. I wonder if anyone with a modded airbox has the same problem. With the air more spread out along the filter maybe it relieves some of this effect. Also the heat from the engine would eventually warm the fuel as well which would probably help out alot. If you were driving however the hot air would be carried away too fast to warm the tank enough. That's why I suggest waiting a couple of more minutes to at least warm the fuel line and carb bowls while the hot air from the engine is rising when stopped and idleing.

If they offered the option for carb heaters here in Canada, I think they should be stock on anything above the Mason-Dixon line, I would buy them for sure. I wonder if you can order them.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline Red01

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2006, 10:15:12 PM »
You'd probably have to order them from a UK Suzuki dealer.
I know when I was searching to buy my lower motor mounts, I couldn't get them from a US Suzuki parts source as the p/n came back as invalid - but it's a valid p/n in Canada where the 1G's up there got the mounts.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline Wooddog

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2006, 11:23:36 PM »
I have had the same type of problems on 2 different occasions. (cold rainy days)  I was guessing bad gas or water in my gas, I had not thought of the freezing affect, but I bet thats what it was.  Just goes to show you that there is a lot of POSERs (fair weather riders)  In the United States, But  apparently  since they sell the carb heaters in the U.K.  There must be alot more  Hard core Motorcyclists over there, and fewer Orange county Posers!
Wooddog- CMA
2002-BANDIT 1200s

Offline Arkan Eller

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2006, 08:26:12 AM »
I live in the UK with a UK spec 1G B6 with carb heaters and they do nothing to stop the icing. Since I've had the bike they ALWAYS ice up during winter. I've had them checked and they work fine but it still happens.

As said above, it happens most often about 6 or 7 miles into a journey and when it's just above freezing in foggy or very moist conditions. I've tried several things, even makeshift insulation but this does nothing as well. I just learnt to live with it and not get caught out when lane splitting / filtering etc. I drive a car in the winter now. That doesn't freeze up so quickly!

Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2006, 02:40:59 PM »
Just as a followup, I leaned the bike to the right then undid the airbox drain plug and a shitload of water came out, well at least a table spoon anyway. After draining this excess water the bike did seem to run slighlty better right away and it worked ok when warmed up however:

Temperature was -5 Celcius, clear night, no precipitation.

When giving it full throttle at low rpm in scond gear at first it drove and accelerated normally but when doing this say about 6-7 times there was a noticable drop in power. My theory is that I was puuting alot more fuel in there(and low fuel speed and throughput through pilots and mains) which had more of a chance to freeze the minute water particles up in the carbs, the freezing built up untill it affected normal operation. Also opening the throttle wide would suck in any excess condensation in the airbox which would excacerbate the icing situation. Idleing and staying still and low throttle settings till it sorted itself out helped untill it drove normally.

When driving "normally" that is no crazy burnouts and just accelerating normally the bike drove fine. What I mean by normally is just driving it like a car, shifting into another gear around 3700-4000 or so and using smaller cruising throttle inputs to keep speed up and accelerate.

My theory is it's a combo of airbox design and small pilots that are causing the problem.

Let's first take a look at the airbox.

The airbox is a very enclosed design that is more suited to a motorcycle with half the displacement of the bike than it's fitted to. To say that there is not enough airflow to either A. Evaporate the water or B. To let any condensation escape when stopped is an understatement. I'm wondering if people who have fitted and aftermarket pipe and have a modded airbox such as a Hole shot or even better Ivan's mod design are as susceptable to condensation as us stockers out there. I will be getting a jet kit in the spring so maybe in a year I'll do a followup but it only stands to reason that more holes in the airbox to help escape any condensation would seem to reduce this problem.

In addition with the stock setup you are getting a double venturi effect from the stock configuration. Having 4 carbs pull through the equivilant of just over a carb sized hole is alot of vacuum. While this produces the low speed torque and pull we all love it poses a problem. The air is going to be pre-cooled before hitting a wet with condensation airbox, then cooled further by being sucked into the carbs. Cold, wet icy air, cooled even further then sprayed with cold gasoline with minute water particles is a recipe for icing. Combine this with low throughput through jets and RPM's, and wide throttle combinations I'm suprised the carbs dont turn into one big block of ice! Again, with an airbox mod, spreading the air over a larger amount of holes would seem to help here as well.


Next let's take a look at the jet sizes. Since this problem really only seem to affect low speed operation it only stands to reason that due to the pilots being artificially small to pass EPA, and they probably don't think that us crazy people(I'm Canadian, Eh!) would be driving in the winter, would cause more problems. A 15 size pilot is a very small hole. Probably less than your average sewing needle, it would take just a little bit of icing to cause problems for this very important jet. Again with an aftermarket pipe and jetting setup there is going to be more fuel going through the jets, which has less of a chance of freezing up due to the slightly higher throughput.

Even in very cold temperatures you never really see Niagra falls freeze up  solid. Why? There is enough movement and throughput to offset the freezing temperatures.



My only advice is if you have a stocker when driving in icing conditions is:

A. Before starting the bike lean the bike to the right for a few seconds then take the drain plug out and drain any excess water.

B. Let the bike idle for an extra few minutes or so at least untill you can feel warm air near the carb areas and the fuel line.

C. Try to keep the rpm's above 2000 rpm(High jet throughput). If you have to stop, dont rev the bike if possible just let it idle there at low throttle levels.

D. Dont use Wide throttle settings and low rpm, this will dump fuel into a the venturi's and may freeze up the carbs very quickly

E. If there is an aftermarket product out there that prevents fuel from freezing or a grade of gasoline such as Petro Canada's "Winter Gas". Then try to use it, I haven't done any research if this actually helps but what the hell give it a shot.

F. Don't be crazy like me and drive in Canadian winters!!! However this problem only seems to affect people at under 4 Degrees Celcius(40 F) and Wet conditions. Most "normal" people would never even dream of driving their bikes in that weather.

G. If all else fails buy a 24 of beer, park your bike in your living room and setup a large TV and a fan. Download a tank cam video, drink the beer put on your gear turn the fan on high, and turn up the T.V and pretend!!! You may be drunk enough to not notice the difference! If you have a treadmill turn that on high and drive your bike on it. Just be sure to vent the exhaust to the neighbors yard, they love that kind of stuff!

If we can nail this down, maybe it deserves a sticky in the BAndit FAQ's for us Eskimo types that drive all year. For some of us the Bandit is our primary mover. I'll do some experimenting and see if I can minimized the problem.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2006, 08:23:25 PM »
I'm going to look at some fuel additives such as STP gas treatment or other such products to see if that helps with carb icing. Supposedly there is a silolene product that everyone's talking about in the UK that completely kills carb icing. It's called "silkolene PRO FST" if someone wants to give it a shot and tell us the results. I post results of that STP stuff you can get at gas stations. It's basically jet fuel which leeches water out of the fuel.

Another solution is to add some isopropyl alcohol to leech the water out. Supposedly alot of these "fuel anit-freeze" additives are basically alcohol based with some top end lubricants added. The mixture rate for the alcohol is 1% per volumn. So 20 litres would be 200 ml. I have a shitload of Isopropyl alcohol so I'll try some for tomorrows drive, and as a bonus it's a buck for 500 ml or over 2 full tanks worth.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2006, 01:47:27 PM »
As a followup today I filled the tank with "name brand" gas instead of the cheaper Ho Chi Mihn special place I usually fill up on the way to work. When I looked on the inside of my tank there was actually tiny water droplets of condensation from the cheap gas. I think if people try and keep their tanks topped up with name brand gas, at least in the winter, it may really help the carb icing situation. It was clear and and 4 dgrees Celcius and sunny and boy did that Bandit want to run with good gas in it. It was hard to keep the front end down! Tomoorow is 6 degrees and sunny I'll see you on the roads!
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline Bazza

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2006, 05:52:06 AM »
Don't be fooled by the "cheap gas" wives tale.

All of the discount gas outlets buy their gas from the majors. If you fill your tank at Domo, it could be coming from the shell refinery. You could buy Esso gas at a shell station etc, etc. It all depends on where the hauler filled up the tanker that day, or which refinery was shut down for maintinance etc. Discount stations do not refine their own fuel, they buy it from brokers who in turn cut deals with Shell, Esso, Petrocan etc.

Where you buy your cas could be a problem, as an older station with a leaky ground tank could have sepage of groundwater into his tank. This could happen with any station however.

I have had icing problems also (at high altitudes especially) I would suggest gas line antifreeze may help. (In small doses please).

Offline rider123

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Carburetor Icing
« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2006, 10:25:43 AM »
It could be where I bought the gas. I put in some "gas treatment" from STP which supposedly helps with icing. Had a bit this morning but a quick drive on the highway cured all. Wasn't have as bad as before. Before the whole bike would die. Now it's just slightly rough untill warm. But this is the first bike I've ever had with this problem.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.