Author Topic: Chain installation (Read 5835 times)

regaliz2 · « **on:** February 03, 2007, 05:23:48 AM »

I have bought a new drive chain and a riveting tool by internet. I was surprised that the chain was an endless chain what make my riveting tool useless :( . So I do not know what to do, should I mount it like that or may be I can cut it and rivet it. Is there anyone who has experience in this?

Thanks,

smooth operator · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:45:41 AM »

1st,Is it the right amount of links? Did you get new sprockets too? I've bought mine where I had to cut to length by grinding the link off and riveting on to size,but if its already together you'd have to take off the counter sprocket (wich gives you a chance to clean up all that kunk) and put the chain on with that new counter sprocket that your going to buy now.
I always like to put on new sprockets when buying a new chain. A good chain is can cost some bucks,and I like to get as much life as i can out of them.
just my 2 cents, Dan

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2007, 10:48:57 AM »

I can only offer you my information based on my off road experience with chains and sprockets which are frequently changed in that arena. Most larger drive chains are sold as endless chain (no links) in different lengths depending upon your drive and rear sprocket configuration and the make/model motorcycle, this eliminates the need for the weak link. However you can buy universal chain breakers and links that fit your size chain if link removal is the path you want to take, but it is not recommended. A new chain replacing an old should always be accompanied by new front and rear sprockets which are pre-determined in size and ordered based on your ratio preference. The number of links needed in the new chain is determined and ordered new as an endless chain. Otherwise both sprockets and chain will wear unevenly and premature wasting money and time and possibly resulting in a catastrophic failure, bunching at high speed and causing transmission damage. Let me add that if your chain is relatively new a front drive sprocket change of one or two teeth up or down should not require a new chain. To determine is your chain needs replacing grab the a link of chain in the middle of the rear sprocket. If the chain link rises higher then 25% of the grove between the teeth exposing day light the chain needs replacing.

Ranger · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2007, 07:59:18 PM »

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:31:01 PM »

Yup I diden't mention any assembly/disassembly i.e. swingarm, because I take for granted that its a piece of cake on my DRZ400's (light aluminum) and a given, but never changed one on my 05 B12 which I can imagine would be a greasy skinned knuckle bear.

pmackie · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2007, 03:00:21 AM »

A factory assembled endless O-RING chain is preferable to install as is. It does involve removing the swingarm, and usually at least the lower link to the shock, to get the new chain in. Definately a pain the ass (or knuckles).

Benefit is full factory lube, sealed into all links of the chain, and no chance of riveting incorrectly. Should result in slightly longer overall chain life, but pretty hard to measure.

Flip side is more work. In my opinion, it is quite a bit easier to install chain and rivet in place. Even the quick "snap link" chain links are pretty reliable. But if I ended up with the correct # of links on a factory sealed chain, I would do the work and install it that way.

As the other guys mentioned, you should always change both sprockets with a new chain. You will wear out a new chain VERY quickly with even slight wear on the old sprockets.

Ranger · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2007, 04:25:12 AM »

regaliz2 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2007, 10:55:38 AM »

Thank you all for your answers, I think I will try to install the chain as it is, endless.

>>>1st: What model and year of Bandit?
It is a 600 bandit 2004
2nd: Did you get sprockets and are they the OEM size sprockets? Do you know how many links the chain is made of?
Yes I have got the sprokets and the links are the size of my last chain, 112.
3rd: Are you certain it's a O-Ring endless chain or is it already riveted?
It is an X-ring, D.I.D. chain it is not riveted.

I am trying to install the chain taking the swingarm appart, are you sure I can do it whitout take some screws of the shock?, it looks pretty narrow. By the way what is a 2x3?

Thank you again for your answers they have been very helpfull.

Ranger · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2007, 02:44:11 PM »

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2007, 03:07:05 PM »

I must admit that no matter how many times I do a job on anything more complicated then changing a tire, I always consult my Clymer manuals with supplemental reference to manufactures manual. Because almost without exception there is a step I would have overlooked or missed which is probably why it makes it difficult to paraphrase a procedure like this here. Regardless of what people tell you always consult shop manuals so that you have a clear understanding of how the parts function in relation to one another and therefore the reason for their method of disassembly/assembly. Never ass-u-me.

Who in the heck is "Dude"?

2005B12S · « **Reply #10 on:** February 04, 2007, 03:13:40 PM »

Dude, don't pull the swingarm just to replace the chain. You are making the job 10x harder than it needs to be.

Today, most high quality 530 aftermarket chains will have a rivet master link. There is nothing wrong with using a master link, they are installed everyday by all cycle shops.

I do not know of any individual who has replaced a worn factory chain with a factory endless type. O or X ring chains are all good for your application. There are no superior lubrication qualities of a factory chain vs an aftermarket chain.

If you are unsure about riveting the new chain, you can use a clip master to get the bike to a shop and have them install the rivet master.

To remove the old chain, simply dremel the pins flush on one link and push them through. As suggested, you should also do sprockets at the same time.

Good Luck, Ed.

Ranger · « **Reply #11 on:** February 04, 2007, 03:45:38 PM »

Bob Holland · « **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2007, 04:45:41 PM »

If the chain is endless, that means you have to pull the s

wingarm to get it on, unless you cut the chain, and then install a master link of some kind.

2005B12S · « **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:47:50 PM »

Quote

I think the key word here is "most". When I was replacing the original chain on my 600 a few years ago, I bought one off of ebay and to my surprise, it was a complete endless chain....Not a single rivets link. I later found out it was a OEM replacement, made for various models and made in Japan, unlike the POS that came with it from the factory.

I will emphasize the word quality. I was not referring to cheap, ebay generic replacements. Any premium RK, DID, or Tsubaki chain will come with a master link. This includes the DID ERV and Tsubaki 530 Sigma rated at 10,000+ lbs tensile strength. This is a Superbike chain. I just bought a 520ERV3 for the 900SS. It is an excellent chain.
http://www.didchain.com/install.htm

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a properly installed master link on a drive chain.

Quote

Regarding masterlinks: Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I've lost a chain once on my H1, masterlink clip (going the right direction) came off and I tossed the chain on the ground. Considering what can happen, i.e., wrapping around the rear wheel, sprocket, chainguard, or getting thrown into the motor toasting the cases, I'm of the opinion a masterlink clip should never be used on anything other than a bicycle.

If you are talking about an H1, I assume that was a few

years ago. Chain technology has come a long way in the past 20 years.

Embrace the improvements and leave the swingarm removal for more serious maintence chores.

Wrench On, Ed.

Red01 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:03:57 AM »

Quote from: "2005B12S"

If you are talking about an H1, I assume that was a few years ago. Chain technology has come a long way in the past 20 years.

Enlighten me on the technological improvements of clip-type master links in the last 20 years. To be honest, I haven't studied clip-style master links in that long, I've just avoided using them on my road bikes since my RD350 spit it's chain down the road one day - and yes, that was >20 years ago for me.
(I do have a clip-style master link on my old '74 Yamaha trials bike though... who knows how old that chain is - it may even be OEM.)