CRY OF DEFEAT...

[lighter223]

 



I just wanna  my bike!!!!


I have got it running in the high end but there is so much lag in the bottom end and there is some very acrid smoke soming from the exhaust...

Anyone know how to tell if your rings are shot?

I am so tired of taking the carb off and putting them back on...


I wish to resign from getting this bike going...

The smell is a burnt acrid smell that I have never smelled coming from exhaust and I know is definitely NOT normal.

Someone help with this new problem...

[r_outsider]

The fastest and easiest way to check your rings is with a compression tester. You can find what the compression should be in the service manual. If it comes in too low, it could be the pistons and rings, or maybe a head gasket. Either way, you'll have to yank the engine and pull the head and cylinder bank to confirm.

Acrid smoke from a gas engine is a new one on me. It happens on diesels, usually means that they're way too rich. Could be that, maybe some oil, I'd have guessed antifreeze, but then I checked and you have a B6, so it's not that.

Good luck with all this. It can get really frustrating, but when you finally get it going it'll all be worth it.

[r_outsider]

Now that I've thought about it, regarding the acrid smell, I have a dumb question. What are the odds you managed to get a tank full of alcohol?  Ever smelled the exhaust from an alky dragster or sprint car? It's nasty stuff. Might also play all kinds of havoc and chaos with a bike jetted to run on regular pump gas.

[lighter223]

First off no alcohol.. just fresh California 87 with maybe that 10% ethanol.
I have been to the NHRA races and This doesnt smell like any top fuel car And I was right next to the line where they idle for a minute and I actually like that smell...

THis is a burnt smell almost like burnt metal but somehow more smokey and full flavored.  It not oil because the plugs are good and I know what it looks and smells like.

And yes b6 so no water...

Could I be running lean and burning the cylinders, rings, or pistons...?

[r_outsider]

This just keeps sounding better and better...

Pull the plugs and check the color, and check if they look like something's been bouncing off of them.   

[Red01]

Other than than the fact you said it was fresh gas, your description reminds me of the smell of nasty, old, stale gas.  It smells nasty when it's burning (and when it's just sitting there, too), and low end performance will suck.  On the top end, it'll be better, but still down on the full power you'd get from fresh stuff.

[lighter223]

plugs pulled... same as a month ago and no sign the damage you described Outsider...

Red what you said is exactly right but this gas was bought less than a week ago... Maybe the 76 sold me 5 GL of ols shit LOL.

Anyone ever sucked mercury into their vaccuum system?  All the mercury in my manometer is accounted for but It seemed to start doing this when I used the manometer... Big clouds of smelly smoke coming from exhaust but all mercury is there in the meter...

It really isnt a gasoline smell. almost like burning plastic but not black smoke and not as heavy but is that "sharp"... like it hits your nostrils and you know something is wrong even with indirect smelling of the smoke... lke when you smell a wild fire in the air but arent really in the smoke.

Still lost though...

[lighter223]

Ok so what I did was start playing with the a/f screws again  and I guess that 2.5 turns is not enough...

Here is the config as of now: starting with 1 and going across he stick: 3.5 3 3 3.5
in turns...

I tried this becase I belive i read that cylinders 2&3 have a bigger Main the 1&4...
 I tried 3.5 across the board but it ran like CRAP

The Bike sounds great moves a lot better but there is still a LITTLE bit of the foul smelling smoke.. a new sight I saw: the same smoke came out of the vaccum port of #3 when I pulled off the hose so I could hook up the manometer... I never saw this before

Can anyone shed light on why there would be smoke in he vacuum system?

The bike is also a little more than a LITTLE laggy around the midrange (5K give or take)
same kind of stuttering problem then the bike takes off like a champ but with a little slip (but I am going to play with the clutch adjustment a little)



I have pictures of the manometer readings with the setup said above.  They are very close but still off...

http://s567.photobucket.com/albums/ss116/lighter223/


As you can see they are very close but 1 and 2 are not the same and 3 and 4 are not the same so How will adjusting a screw hat adjust both, bring 1&2 level with each other and bring 3&4 level with eachother?

Also you can see that 3 is the lowest... Any one know why?

[Blade]

Do you still have an air box?  If so, have you drained it? There is usually a drain hose on the right side by the driver foot peg. You can tell it because there is a plug in it.

If you have not drained it, it will fill up into the air box and then start to draw the stuff through your engine once it is full enough. And the stuff that comes out is pretty rancide.

[PaulVS]

Also you can see that 3 is the lowest... Any one know why?

The far right adjuster screw should be able to get the #3 & #4 carbs aligned on the manometer.  Are you having a problem with that step?

[lighter223]

I have not yet adjusted any of those screws...  It was fine last summer adn no adjustments have been made or lossened up (paint marker was used as a visual aid).

As my understanding goes, far left screw adusts 1&2 and the far right adjusts 3&4, and the center adjusts all four.

Question should all cylnders be at  or very near the EXCACT SAME level?

If so, then 3&4 are not at the same level to begin with and making an adjustment to the screw will adjust them simultaneously, yes, but, they will still be NOT level and the same situation for cylinders 1&2 right?


This is my theory please correct me if I am wrong.  If I am right then my next question: How do  I get 1&2 at the same level an then 3&4 at the same level?

I am sorry for being repetitive... but I am trying to clarify something  I dont know very much about so I think I am coming out confusing... 

[txbanditrydr]

As stated in your other thread you'll do this to sync the carbs.....  Note the 3 screws we've been talking about that we'll label A, B & C with the following locations.

A = BETWEEN carbs 1 & 2 or BETWEEN the two carbs on the left side of the bike.

B = BETWEEN carbs 2 & 3 or dead-center of the carb bank itself

C = BETWEEN carbs 3 & 4 or BETWEEN the two carbs on the far right side of the bike.

Now that we have located and identified the 3 screws (A, B & C) you will do the following - with the expected results.

With a warm engine set to 1,700 rpm and the manometer gage hooked up you will adjust screw "A" so that the columns of fluid hooked up to carbs 1 & 2 (two carbs on the left side of the bike) are of equal height - do NOT worry about the other columns at this point... ONLY about 1 & 2.  Use gentle pressure on the screwdriver - pushing down will affect the reading.  Using screw A will cause columns 1 & 2 to go opposite directions.  Do your 1 & 2 columns look equal in height????????  Yes = Good...... now forget about those two.

Next.... adjust screw "C" so that the columns of fluid hooked up to carbs 3 & 4 (two carbs on the right side of the bike) are of equal height - do NOT worry about the other columns at this point... ONLY about 3 & 4.  Use gentle pressure on the screwdriver - pushing down will affect the reading.  Using screw C will cause columns 3 & 4 to go opposite directions.  Do your 3 & 4 columns look equal in height????????  Yes = Good...... now forget about those two.

Next.... adjust screw "B" (the one in the CENTER of all four carbs) - this will change the height of all four columns but 1 & 2 will rise or fall together with 3 & 4 doing the opposite TOGETHER.  That's correct - they will rise or fall in pairs.  Does the pair of columns (1 & 2) match the pair of columns (3 & 4)????  Yes = Good... you are done.  No = Well, they're a lot closer than before but still not perfect.

If no then repeat the whole procedure again.... Screw A to set 1 & 2 equal - Screw C to set 3 & 4 equal - Screw B to make columns 1/2 equal to columns 3/4

It does NOT matter at what measured height is achieved - ONLY that all four columns are of equal height.

[lighter223]

And there be the answer!!!!!!!!!!!!!



So these screws do not change the levels in the same direction...  they change in the OPPOSITE direction...  and that makes complete sense.  so when you turn screw "a''., 1 opens and 2 closes and vice versa so they balance.

Okie dokie


Thank you.