Author Topic: Electrical Help for Dummies (Read 4723 times)

PitterB4 · « **on:** November 28, 2005, 02:24:41 PM »

OK so I’m hoping the old adage “the only dumb question is the one that’s not asked” even applies to me asking an electrical/wiring question...

I’ve got a slick new dual headlight setup for the B4. The standard single unit takes a 60/55W H4 bulb. The new one takes TWO 60/55W H4s. What, if anything, do I need to do to make this all work? I don’t want to be melting wiring or frying fuses with this. I’m a total moron when it comes to the electrical side of stuff so please use as many monosyllabic words as possible.

wyntrblue · « **Reply #1 on:** November 28, 2005, 02:28:25 PM »

i upgraded my single bulb had to fit a few relays one for high and low, coz the draw from the bulbs was more than the standard wiring would handle

any electric advice you need i found http://www.bikelectrix.co.uk/

found them very helpfull in the past

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:39:12 PM »

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:40:31 PM »

Quote from: "PitterB4"

I’m a total moron when it comes to the electrical side of stuff so please use as many monosyllabic words as possible.

Use more thick wire.

B12Teuton · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:42:43 PM »

thicker wire, bigger fuse and some bubble gum to make it all stick together.

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2005, 07:06:44 PM »

Use the OEM wiring to control relays (one for high beam, one for low beam). Use bigger wire to supply power & ground to the new lights and from the battery to the relay.

(Sorry, had to through in some two syllable words.)

ray nielsen · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2005, 08:31:31 PM »

Check <www.easternbeaver.com> for relay kits that are very easy to install. They're virtually plug and play and reasonable in cost too.

The come with everything you'll need to do the job and the parts are small and heavy duty as well.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2005, 09:11:04 PM »

Dammit - except for the whole hiding the wiring MESS, I figured this would be a pretty easy swap. I never even thought about the extra draw.

I have no problem wading (often blindly) into basic mechanicals and figuring out how to tune my carbs or whatever. I have no more idea how to -

Quote

Use the OEM wiring to control relays (one for high beam, one for low beam). Use bigger wire to supply power & ground to the new lights and from the battery to the relay.

- than I do how to convert my bike to run on the chilli I had for lunch (although it would WORK! Whew!). There's no freakin' way I'm cramming all those wires back in the solo bucket either.... The track-only bike option is looking better and better!

There are actually some good articles on this and even some off the shelf products specific to this issue - like this. I'll try to digest all this and dive in. (Hmm... track-only bikes don't need lights...)

Thanks all!

PitterB4 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 28, 2005, 09:12:37 PM »

Quote from: "ray nielsen"

Check <www.easternbeaver.com> for relay kits that are very easy to install. They're virtually plug and play and reasonable in cost too.

The come with everything you'll need to do the job and the parts are small and heavy duty as well.

Thanks, Ray! I had clicked Reply and then walked away for a bit. Found the same link in the meantime.

Red01 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 29, 2005, 12:06:42 AM »

Quote from: "PitterB4"

(Hmm... track-only bikes don't need lights...)

Unless they're endurance racers.

tomacGTi · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2005, 12:07:32 AM »

Rob, do a search for Daniel Stern Lighting on google or whatever webcrawler you're using.

He has a couple of schematics to build headlight circuits, I've used them tons for my car before. A relay is realistically only about $5 (free if you pocket a couple at a junkyard). I'd take a stab at building it before spending loot on a prefab setup but that's just me.

-Randy

PitterB4 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2005, 10:04:25 AM »

Quote from: "tomacGTi"

Rob, do a search for Daniel Stern Lighting on google or whatever webcrawler you're using.

He has a couple of schematics to build headlight circuits, I've used them tons for my car before. A relay is realistically only about $5 (free if you pocket a couple at a junkyard). I'd take a stab at building it before spending loot on a prefab setup but that's just me.

-Randy

Actually, his web address is www.danielsternlighting.com!

Good stuff. I may give it a shot.

Krautwagen · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2006, 07:48:09 PM »

Amps = Watts/Volts

Stock stuff:
~13v
60 watts max
=4.6 Amp draw from one 60w filament.

If you're going to run both highs at the same time, you'll be at 4.6 X 2 = 9.2 Amps. The stock wiring can easily handle 10amps, and the stock fuse is 10 amps. I wouldn't worry about the wiring, but the fuse may give you some trouble. Usually, you don't just throw a fatter fuse in, but when it's this close, you may be able to get away with it... but only a 15Amp fuse, MAX.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2006, 11:09:22 PM »

Thanks, Dave. Since this got bumped back to the top... I had scored an ebay "deal" on some Xenon H4 lights that were supposed to be 55/60s. They were unmarked and I am guessing they are the 80/100s or whatever the high-wattage ones are. They kept blowing fuses. When I put the stockers back in, it works just fine. Now I just need to figure out what to do with the MESS of wires that were hidden in the bucket!