Author Topic: kLR650 FRONT END (Read 9169 times)

aussiebandit · « **on:** December 31, 2006, 01:57:19 AM »

I know this isn't a KLR site, but just a quick question/request for advice.

What is the cheapest way of curing a front end wobble ('death wobble' as my eldest calls it) on a KLR650?

It's a '96 model with 17" motard rims with a Metzler M1 (recently fitted) on the front and a Dunlop Arrowmax on the rear (came with rims - still has 90% tread on it).

The 'wobble' only appears in a stong side or head wind, or if you're doing more than 110kmh

It still has the OEM 'high' front guard.

My thoughts were, in no particular order

-replace the front guard with a 'normal' road style guard
-fit a fork brace
-replace the extisting fork oil with a heavier oil
-replace the front springs
-fit a steering dampner.

Now, bearing in mind that this is owned by an unemployed 17yr old who is still at school, so I need a cheapish fix.

Ideas????

JamieK · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2006, 02:15:39 AM »

Make sure that the steering head bearings are adjusted correctly, if he still has the stock hand guards he can remove them, KTM front fender

aussiebandit · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2006, 02:24:03 AM »

Steering Head bearings are brand new (3 weeks old)....I had them done as the steering was extremely notchy and the wobble was boardering on a tank slapper.

I'll try and convince 'the eldest' to remove the hand guards and see how he goes....

What is the difference between the KTM guard and the OEM fender?

Thanks -

r_outsider · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2006, 03:01:07 AM »

My guess(and it's just a guess)is that when the 17" wheel was installed, it dropped the front end enough that the bike's geometry is screwed. If that's the case I think the best fix would be to shorten the suspension, front and rear. But, since you're on a budget, maybe just try lowering the rear with some longer dogbones. You could probably find some online, or maybe just see if you can get a local machine shop to make a pair. They're pretty simple pieces, it shouldn't cost much.

Or I could be completely wrong.

The heavier fork springs idea is a good one, the steering damper the best idea but not cheap.

And KTM has a shorty fender for Supermotard bikes.

JamieK · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2006, 12:13:49 PM »

Quote from: "aussiebandit"

Steering Head bearings are brand new (3 weeks old)....I had them done as the steering was extremely notchy and the wobble was boardering on a tank slapper.

I'll try and convince 'the eldest' to remove the hand guards and see how he goes....

What is the difference between the KTM guard and the OEM fender?

Thanks -

The stock hand guards are sails,especially in side winds, they will make the front end wobble, taking them off will be the least expensive solution. If he still wants wind protection for his hands then put some Acerbis or similar guards on, they are much more stable. I had Moose hand guards on mine and after adjusting the head bearings I had no wobble even with the stock fender. The KTM fender is stiffer and smaller so the side winds don't affect it as much.

JamieK · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2006, 12:19:24 PM »

Quote from: "r_outsider"

Or I could be completely wrong.

No you're not completely wrong, but the front end wobble is a known KLR issue with or without the 17" front wheel. Try passing a semi in a cross wind on a KLR, some serious pucker factor there

I expect the smaller front wheel is magnifying the problem.

aussiebandit · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2007, 02:26:56 AM »

The hand guards came off this afternoon, but as we are all somewhat 'under the weather' and a bit 'soggy' after New Years, it's probably best we don't ride the bike today.

I'll let you know how we get on - the thought of the 17" rims causing the problem had crossed my mind, but I doubt the boy will want to go back to the 'dirt rims', as he doesn't do ANY dirt riding. So, why did we by a KLR650? I here you ask. Well in short he's not short - 6'3" and still growing - here in Oz there aren't alot of Learner Legal road bikes that he'd fit on comfortably - plus the KLR was only $3500.00 with the Excel Motard rims.

aussiebandit · « **Reply #7 on:** January 01, 2007, 03:49:22 AM »

I couldn't resist......took the KLR out, minus the hand guards and even in the highish winds we have today the only time I could feel any sign of a wobble was at 130+kmh. Even then it was more like the whole bike was 'flexing' rather than just a front end wobble.....

This shouldn't be a problem as Learner Riders in NSW are only allowed to do 80 and the highest speed limit in the state is 110....so assuming he sticks to the speed limits he should be fine.

However, I see a fork brace and some minor suspension mods in the future.

JamieK · « **Reply #8 on:** January 01, 2007, 12:22:42 PM »

Quote from: "aussiebandit"

I couldn't resist......took the KLR out, minus the hand guards and even in the highish winds we have today the only time I could feel any sign of a wobble was at 130+kmh. Even then it was more like the whole bike was 'flexing' rather than just a front end wobble.....

This shouldn't be a problem as Learner Riders in NSW are only allowed to do 80 and the highest speed limit in the state is 110....so assuming he sticks to the speed limits he should be fine.

However, I see a fork brace and some minor suspension mods in the future.

Yeah that sounds about right

enjoy the new wobble free ride

Ranger · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2007, 12:29:54 AM »

aussiebandit · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2007, 06:34:29 AM »

Quote from: "Ranger"

I would work in reverse order to find the wobble or narrowing it down.
Look at the front tire pressure and hopefully it's mounted in the right direction (M1's are directional last time I looked).

If you've dropped the suspension (raised the tubes), I would put it all back to the stock height, again eliminating what might be causing the wobble.

The tyre is correctly mounted, I'm a bit anul when it comes to tyre pressures and I've done nothing to the bike in the way of mods, other than fit the 17" rims and M1 tyre....

As I said just before, removing the hand guards as removed the worst of the wobble. Next, step for me is to 'play' around with the rear preload and try and get some sort of balance....

Earth Brown · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2007, 09:47:31 AM »

1. remove HUGE FT FENDER...

2. Heavier Oil in the forks, not too heavy, but up maybe one grade from stock oil.

3. Remove hand guards

4. Install a Damper, lots of room on a enduro so you could probably make most fit.

OHHHHH, all mods should be done one at a time with tests after, to see if it got better or worse, easier than doing all at once then having it worse. Remove the ft fender first, and see if it is any better....

K

Ranger · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2007, 10:46:05 AM »

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #13 on:** January 26, 2007, 07:41:38 PM »

This is a spoked rime right? When was the last time the spokes were tightened, all should sound the same when played? Followed by truing and balancing. Then ride it and see.

aussiebandit · « **Reply #14 on:** January 29, 2007, 02:21:51 AM »

Quote from: "CWO4GUNNER"

This is a spoked rime right? When was the last time the spokes were tightened, all should sound the same when played? Followed by truing and balancing. Then ride it and see.

good point, but when I had the bike serviced by a reputable mechanic he also, without asking, checked the spokes for me and gave them a 'clean bill of health'. He suggests that replacing the front guard, heavier fork oil and ofcourse avoid going over 140 - which if we were law abiding wouldn't be a problem - the max speed in NSW is 110 - unless you're a learner then you're restricted to 80.