Maintenance on a B600

[elbandito]

I'm coming up on my 10,000 mile mark (2002 B600).  Had the bike for 4.5 years.  It still runs like the day I bought it.  Or at least I think it does...    The only things I've ever done to it were change the oil, clean/lube the chain on a regular basis, clean the spark plugs, and adjust the rear wheel (to tighten chain slack).  That's it.  My stock tires are even still good (although showing age).

What do I need to do?  I'm guessing this summer will require the following:

- Chain (how do I know?)
- Valve adjustment (how do I know?)
- Brake pads (do I need to do the rotors too?)
- Brake fluid (or no?)
- Clean carbs (I'd like to rejet... so this may be a side benefit)
- Tires (maybe)

Keep in mind I have little to no spare time anymore.  I'd like to some of this myself (brakes should be easy enough).  I helped a friend synch carbs on my old KZ400 but I'd be lying if I told you I remembered how, let alone that I had the tools...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks!

[pmackie]

There's a couple of things that I would do... I also have a 02 B6 coming up 32,000 km (20,000 miles)

Valve adjustment - you SHOULD be checking this. Mine is getting its 3rd check this year. Only minor adjustments at 18,000 km.

Brake Fluid - it slowly absorbs water but is easy to change. I pulled the calipers and cylinders off last year when I put on braided steel lines, but you only really need to flush new fluid through. But, this is a good time to put on steel braided lines. They improve braking force and feel.

Fork Oil - now over 5 years old from factory fill. I would pull each fork leg, drain the oil, flush with solvent and then flush with fresh fork oil, and then put some fresh stuff in. If you do it every 3-4 years, everything stays clean and good. This is a good time to put in Progressive or Race Tech springs.

Chain & Sprockets - a couple of ways to check. The manual says stretch the chain out and measure the distance between the links, but I think the easiest way to check is to take the slack out of the chain with your foot, and see if you can pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket with your hand. If you can pull 1/2 a tooth or more, it's time for chain and sprockets. Even 1/3 of a tooth is getting worn. Don't put a new chain on old sprockets.

Brake Pads - change them when they get down to the wear limit. You can see the minimum wear marker when you inspect. A change to HH pads, especially on the front, provides a little more intial bite (factory pads are GG). You won't need rotors or calipers at your mileage, and your pads are likely still fine. In my experience, the rears go a little faster than the fronts so check them first.

Fluids and pads are pretty easy to change. The chain and sprockets are a little messy and you need some tools. If you're not competent on the valve procedure, get a shop to check the valve clearance, and have them sync the carbs while its there.

Then go ride the thing for another 4-1/2 years.

[Blade]

Don't know if you have a shop manual, but that is well worth the investment too..

[Red01]

What do I need to do?  I'm guessing this summer will require the following:

- Chain (how do I know?)
- Valve adjustment (how do I know?)
- Brake pads (do I need to do the rotors too?)
- Brake fluid (or no?)
- Clean carbs (I'd like to rejet... so this may be a side benefit)
- Tires (maybe)

Chain - when it can't be adjusted to maintain the proper slack anymore, or if it's damaged. Replace the sprockets when you install a new chain. If you don't, the new chain won't last long.

Valve adjustment - SHOULD have been done at the initial 600 mile service and again at 7500 miles. (Many dealers will ignore the valve adjustment @ 600 though.) Suzuki calls to check it every 7500 thereafter, but after 15,000, it doesn't usually change anymore. I check mine annually (~10,000 miles). You should have slight valve train noise. If it's too quiet, they're too tight - and this is more common than them getting too loose, especially in the first 15,000 miles.

Brake pads - There's wear indicator grooves in the pads (or at least there is on the B12, not sure about the B6), when they're smooth, or close to it, it's time for a change. Depends on how you ride,, but 15-20K miles isn't uncommon life for the stockers. Rotors should be OK. You'll feel it in the lever if they warp. +1 on the HH pads!

Brake fluid - At 4.5 years old, it should be changed. Fork oil, too. (Actually should have been changed several times by now.)

Clean carbs - if you let it sit for a month or more at a time without fuel stabilizer, it would be a real good idea. If you're going to install a jet kit, this would be a good time.

Tires - With 10K miles, they should be about shot by now, if not, their 4.5 years of age should be starting to show even if the tread is still there. Even if they aren't cracking, the age of the rubber is at a point where they should be changed. I'd be budgeting for some new shoes for your baby.

[elbandito]

I took it in for the initial valve adjustment at 600 miles and the dealer said they were good to go.

As for the brakes, they squeal a bit now and don't feel as tight as they used to.  That's what I figured I needed new brakes.

As for the fork oil, well, I have no clue how to do that, so I guess I'll be paying someone to do that for me.  

The tires have the flat spot developing down the middle, but there are no cracks.  I just figured it was getting close to time anyway.

Ok, so I need to take it to the dealer for fork oil and valve adjustment with a possible jetting if I have the dough.

I still need to look at the chain again...

Thanks!

[pmackie]

Eric, changing the fork oil is pretty easy, but you do need some mechanical ability and tools.

- Put the bike up on the centre stand, with a block under the exhaust to hold the front wheel off the ground.
- Remove the front fender, brake calipers and front wheel. This is a good time to check the brake pads
- Remove the large bolt on the top of the fork legs (fork caps), and then remove the fork springs and spacers.
- loosen the pinch bolts on the triple clamps of one fork leg and slide the fork out of the clamps. Turn the fork leg upside down and drain out the old oil.
- Put about 1/2 cup of solvent (Varsol or similar) into the leg and agitate it, then drain it as well, maybe do the solvent a 2nd time if it is still dark and dirty. Let the solvent drain well, then do a flush with a small amout of fork oil (1/8 to 1/4 cup) to remove any solvent. Put in the new fork oil (510 ml, 17.2 oz, SAE 10W) into each leg.
- reverse the above procedure to install, then do the next leg.

Progressive or Race Tech fork springs make a significant difference and are easy to install. Just follow the instructions. The amount of fork oil will be different.

Find a buddy who has some tools and a little time. The whole procedure should not take more than 1 to 1-1/2 hours and you'll get more familiar with your bike.

[elbandito]

I haven plenty of tools.  I did almost all of the work on my Jeep (lifts, brakes, axles, maint., etc.).  Guess I'm just a little nervous working on the bike.  I'll give the fork oil a try when I get some free time.

Any brand suggestions?

[pmackie]

Oil Brand doesn't really matter. Just pick a brand name SAE 10W fork oil, and make sure you've got some solvent.