="smooth operator"]Befor changing jets,check and see what knotch your needles are on.Move the clips down a knotch to raise the needles and start 2 3/4 turns out. (Again this is the advise of a dumb tilesetter) But it doesn't cost anything but time.
Hey set tile and stop playin mechanic!!! Smoothey whats up!!!! 
Hey IcyChaos if you have it running ok! just make sure the needles don't back out AND RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!! After stage two ing etc etc these things loose the stock drivability to some extent. It sounds like if you don't know the diff between a stock header, or a bolt on aftermarket you may not want to mess with this stuff! U need to live closer to a chum like Smooth operator! or such to get started. Don't worry about minor popping they all do it with aftermarket exhausts. 
In my defense, I was told its a full system. But since all the pipes are gold, like stock tends to do, minus the muffler(yoshi) I think its stock. so then I start looking into full yoshi system pics, some show 3 to 2 to 1, and I've seen some that look the exact same as mine, 4 to 1 yoshi full system, stainless steel. Does the full yoshi system turn gold like the stock?
so until I actually see a Full yoshi system on a 1G bandit, I can't know for sure, because some of the pics I've seen match what I have, or look exactly like stock.
Also why would My bike have a stage 2 with a bolt on? wouldn't it be better to have stage 1 with bolt on and K&N pods?
Im pretty sure its a stage 2 jetting because I have a dynojet coupon and a dyno test from the previous owner.
As for delving into the bike further, Im ready. I read the haynes manual all the time, just for the hell of it. Im learning one thing at a time, have a front wheel stand and rear wheel stand, but I haven't done much except for changing my oil, adjusting chain slack / taking off rear plastics to replace relay / installed timing advancer / cleaning / torque bolts etc.
Eitherway, When messing with the pilots, Its running pretty well 4 turns out. when screwing around I have turned them out 6 or more turns, flush with the hole, but even at 4 turns out, its hardly half way out of the hole.
Dale Walker said go 3.5 to 4 turns out, so maybe jet 2 goes farther out then jet 1?? I don't know..
Regardless every mechanic I've taken my bike to has done something wrong. I almost need to know what Im supposed to do, just to make sure they do it correctly. for instance, I had valve adjustment and carb synch with plugs done. he didn't bother touching the pilot screws, or have me clean the air filters beforehand. shouldn't a carb synch be done in conjunction with these things?
another mechanic installed a new chain that wore very quick because he didn't know what slack to use, and sold me dirt bike chain oil.
finally 3rd mechanic just did my front forks and valves, the preload screws are all the way out, sticking very far out not flush like it used to be at full pre-load, is this normal?. Also didn't bother having me sit on it for measurements etc. to cut spacers. Im not sure if this is something that should be done when you get racetech springs and valves installed.
eitherway I've given up on bike mechanics. Im slowly learning enough to do stuff on my own, but I do need guidance, since none of my friends have any bikes similar to mine.
Topic: Need help adjusting air/fuel mixture pilots (Read 34315 times)