Author Topic: New 600 owner, numpty questions (Read 10888 times)

toastyhamster · « **on:** March 13, 2005, 09:35:24 AM »

Just got a '97 B6. It's been stood under a cover in a garden for 3 years, and I got it very very cheap :-)

I'm halfway through cleaning it all up, and I've not yet got my hands on a Haynes, so I have a couple of questions....

How do you remove the rear pads? The locating pins seem pretty solid, are they threaded into the caliper, or just a push fit? What's the best way to remove these?

Real numpty question here, which plug is the oil drain plug? I can see two likely candidates, one is an allen bolt which is near the bottom of 2 oil pipes underneath the filter, the other one is on the bottom of what looks like a sump on the nearside rear of the engine. I'd have a go at cracking that one off, but I don't have a socket to fit it (even my TCat only had (I think) a 19mm drain plug).

Other than that it needs a new chain and it's ready for MOT. Couldn't get it started yesterday, so a bit of a blag with the AA and they brought it home. Drained the carbs this morning (was a bit short of tools at the owners house yesterday) and it started second time. Runs pretty well considering. Got 2 "new" tyres, new plugs and it's only done 6000 miles :-)

Thanks

Mike

echomadman · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2005, 04:53:29 PM »

Quote from: "toastyhamster"

Just got a '97 B6. It's been stood under a cover in a garden for 3 years, and I got it very very cheap :-)

I'm halfway through cleaning it all up, and I've not yet got my hands on a Haynes, so I have a couple of questions....

How do you remove the rear pads? The locating pins seem pretty solid, are they threaded into the caliper, or just a push fit? What's the best way to remove these?

Real numpty question here, which plug is the oil drain plug? I can see two likely candidates, one is an allen bolt which is near the bottom of 2 oil pipes underneath the filter, the other one is on the bottom of what looks like a sump on the nearside rear of the engine. I'd have a go at cracking that one off, but I don't have a socket to fit it (even my TCat only had (I think) a 19mm drain plug).

Other than that it needs a new chain and it's ready for MOT. Couldn't get it started yesterday, so a bit of a blag with the AA and they brought it home. Drained the carbs this morning (was a bit short of tools at the owners house yesterday) and it started second time. Runs pretty well considering. Got 2 "new" tyres, new plugs and it's only done 6000 miles :-)

Thanks

Mike

The cursed Suzuki back calipers., those pins are allegely a push fit, secured with a split pin.
The pins and pistons on mine were welded in too, i ended up buying a new caliper from a breakers yard.
(I'm assuming your calpier looks like this

see http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=371 for my adventure with the rear caliper.

Noonie · « **Reply #2 on:** March 14, 2005, 11:34:50 AM »

I too had problems replacing the back brake pads. I ended up splitting the caliper and took the opportunity to overhaul the thing with new seals and a cleanup. Worked a treat and have, so far, done about 30 more miles to this tank of petrol (the pads were binding on the disc before I cleaned the caliper up).

toastyhamster · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2005, 11:49:17 AM »

Hmm nice, well you're not the first to say "the dreaded bandit rear caliper". Hopefully, given the amount of copa-slip on the caliper from the last servuice, the mole grips I bought at lunch should do the trick later, if not then it should scrape through the MOT.
Also took a flyer on a 21mm socket for the drain plug...

Jacknife · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2005, 02:16:35 PM »

Shit! i've got this to look forward to, just got me a new set of rear pads, so not looking too good for the pins coming out.

The best place I got my new chain and Sprockets from is http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/index.html

I also have new pads for the front so here goes nothing!

toastyhamster · « **Reply #5 on:** March 15, 2005, 11:30:02 AM »

The mole grips didn't work. If the pads pass the MOT I'll have a look later in the year, if they don't I'll drill it from the back and punch them out.

B12Teuton · « **Reply #6 on:** March 15, 2005, 12:41:29 PM »

Search your local salvage yard.
I'll guess the B6 is not the only bike in the world that uses this caliper, so it's pretty likely you can track down a new-used one for pretty cheap.

Jacknife · « **Reply #7 on:** March 15, 2005, 01:13:40 PM »

Well I have beginner lucky! done the rear in no time.

The pins came out but I had to use a pair of nose pliers to pull them, but my bike has only done 11k on the clock on a 6 year old bike. The front was also easy.

Shit does happen!

Have you tried Heat? you could heat the caliper. Failing that take it off the bike and strip it down.

toastyhamster · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2005, 04:13:06 AM »

Well, it failed the MOT on the rear brake binding (and steering head bearings notchy), so I had to sort the brake. Drilled from the back and punched the pins out. Cleaned behind the seals to fix the binding and it's fine now.

tacoman · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2005, 12:38:49 PM »

What exactly is the MOT? You must be in the UK. As far as I know, the motor vehicle dept inspects every vehicle before you get your registration. They sound very thorough. Wouldn't be a bad idea here but we seem to have our hands full with emission testing.

Red01 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 18, 2005, 07:03:14 PM »

If it's like our Canadian friends to the north, Ministry of Transportation. Sorta like our DOT, but it sounds like they've got their fingers deeper into everyone's lives than our DOT, though some of our state equivalents do, just not here in Washington.

toastyhamster · « **Reply #11 on:** March 20, 2005, 06:52:41 AM »

Yeah, it's just a check into vehicle roadworthiness, an annual test for anything over 3 years old.

Managed to stop the brakes binding but now I'm struggling to bleed the rear brake, doesn't seem to be any air in it but it's a very spongey pedal and the brake is pretty weak.

Steve · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2005, 04:04:10 PM »

Sure sounds like you still have air. Try making sure that your resevior never gets below the "min" mark with fluid, and, be sure that you are closing the bleeder just before the end of the down stroke with the pedal (while you are definately still under pressure). YOu can also tap (gently) along the brake line from time to time between bleedings, may help to free stubborn bubbles and move them along the way.

When you are done (totally frustrated) and decide to stop for the evening, fine some way to leave the bike with pressure on the brake pedal, prop up some weight or do something. Leave it like that overnight. When you get up in the AM life should be better.

Good luck

Steve

Red01 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 21, 2005, 06:27:24 AM »

Quote from: "Steve"

When you are done (totally frustrated) and decide to stop for the evening, fine some way to leave the bike with pressure on the brake pedal, prop up some weight or do something. Leave it like that overnight. When you get up in the AM life should be better.

When you do that, make sure you remove the taillight bulb(s) or otherwise ensure the bulb(s) don't glow until you drain the battery.

Steve · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2005, 08:48:03 PM »

Hey Brodda, won't leaving the key if the O F F position take care of the brake light thing? On mine it does

Steve